I'm trying to change my driver rear axle bearings! Bought the 4 prong tool for the nut but its either really tight or something is holding it! I don't see anything in the keyway! Anything that i am missing?

 

Remember that the left-hand (driver's) side is a left-handed thread in 10.5", corporate rear ends.

Turn the other way if that's what you've got.....

Pop

 

Don't you need to push on the nut with the socket while turning it?

 

Yes you need to apply pressure while turning it. The socket that I bought was hub pilot centered. After you remove the lock nut and bearing you reinstall the socket into the hub center. The socket has a depression in the middle to hold the puller while you remove the hub. I have seen lots of conflicting ideas on torquing the bearings on this forum. Torquing them to 65 ft lbs and then backing them off 1/8 turn seems to work. But I am no expert, just my experience.

 

2003 10.50 Sterling. 60 lbs and 1/8 back is probably right. I had a hard time hearing the clicks so counted and marked the lock teeth with a sharpie and eyeballed it back. Remember 5 clicks (teeth) new bearings, and 7 old. so the 1/8 is + or - depending. Spin hub and recheck torque before clicky back off. Don't forget to pack bearing with NLGI grease and add 1 oz of diff juice to hub before install.

 

Not sure what NLGI grease is for sure,but #2 gun grease will make it tough for the gear oil to reach the bearing,the old timers always used either gear oil or light assembly grease like Lubriplate 105 engine assembly grease.

 

I thought the same thing you do about the #2 grease. Ford manual specifies this grease. Polyethylene and Molybdenum Disulfide, NLGI Grade-2. Basically it breaks down with the Diff juice and keeps bearings from killing themselves until the gear lube gets to the axle ends. Some people lift one side of truck for an hour and then lift the other side to get the oil to the ends. This grease protects bearing during break in and diff lube.

 

I remember taking floating axle bearings out that was packed with #2 grease & the gear oil was sealing off by the grease,the lubriplate 105 that I mentioned,always got washed out by the gear oil.

 

I have always poured a little gear oil into the rollers of the bearings and what I could into the well of the hub during assembly. Then, topped off the differential housing. I have never had any issues with bearing failures.

 

I've always done it the same as Roland.

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