1st diesel lots of??????????
<hr style="color: rgb(209, 209, 225);" size="1"> <!-- / icon and title --> <!-- message --> I just bought a 92 f250 7.3 4x crew cab with 350k miles on it. where can I get a comprehensive manual that will help me figure out what I am doing, what I know about diesel pretty much ends with spelling it correctly. I've got some malfunctioning dashlights and I don't even know what they are supposed to be telling me. She starts pretty good unless it's so cold I really don't want to ride my bike to work, there's no blowback, minimal smoke, and no puddles under it in the morning. Any suggestions about where I should start restoration and what the most important things to look out for will be?
I forgot to mention that after I drove home from dealer, when I shifted into Park, it immediately stalled. I was running on the front tank and it was pretty low, would that affect it that much?

 

There is a haynes manual that is specifically targeted at Diesel Engines, It is somewhat vague for beginners and not that great, this forum really has a lot more information to offer than that book does. It might also be good for you to buy the haynes manual that covers the actual truck too, although this book doesnt mention anything about the diesel engine.

Your best option would be just to read back through the informative posts on this site, or do a search if you have a specific topic you want to read about, and if all else fails then just post and ask.

 

Most comprehensive information I found, wiring manuals, step by step troubleshooting etc is from a CD. They can be bought very cheap on e-bay, search 1992 Ford service and repair manual. Got mine for $6.00 a couple of years ago, best money ever spent.

Then like 91 sayes search hear for what your specific problems are- someone will have been there done that, which really helps solve issues quickly.

 

srqdiesel chef,
Welcome to FTE and the IDI diesel forum.

Helm's made the best manuals, but thay are getting hard to find, and rather pricey.

Diesel and low on fuel are not a good combination.
What makes it worse, the fuel pickup tubes are famous for cracking, which raises the point where you run out of fuel at.

What dash lights are you having trouble with?

 

Forget the books and read your butt off on here, that's my 2 cents.

I don't know if it's any kind of copyright infringement or anything but if you printed off the needed threads and illustrations off of here you'd have a repair manual in short order.

That MAY or MAY NOT be what I've done.
It is/would be a great suppliment to the lacking repair manuals I recieved with my truck.

I SPECULATE that those pages would fit right in the larger manuals in the appropriate places.



You know IF SOMEONE was to print them off AND it was OK.

 

now that's funny!

 

I bought a complete set of factory manuals, including the EVTM for my '93 a few years ago on Ebay for under $100. I find that the aftermarket manuals skim the surface of repairs and miss a lot of detail. The factory books break down step by step, basic theory, diagnosis, maintenance, and repair of every system. Well worth it, IMO.

Jason

 

Not sure, there is a cluster to the right of the steering that includes a "water in fuel" light, pretty much everything else in that cluster does nothing.
I'm also having a problem with starting it in the morning. The temp in the mornings since I bought it have been in the low 40's and I have to crank it for 10-15 seconds 2-3 times before she starts. I've never had diesel b4 and I'm not sure how long I can/should let it go without having battery problems. I don't even know if I can use my wife's car to jump it if I have to. Would a block heater help?
How do I find out if it has a block heater, where should I look and for what?
MaybeI should change my name to dieseldummy!

 

Jump start requires a vehicle with 2 batteries just like your diesel. How long does the WTS light stay on... Useing the starter should be limited to 20 secs, with a 2 minute cool down. If the engine is NOT spinning over faster than you can count RPMs you need to recharge or replace batteries/starter.

If you allow PMs or emails I or others can send you info.......

Here is some good info I would have sent you........

93 year info.......other than some fuses mentioned the 7.3 system 87-94 is basically the same.

GLOW PLUG CONTROL
HOW THE CIRCUIT WORKS
The Glow Plug Control circuit applies power to the Glow Plugs, which heat the combustion chambers so that the diesel engine can be started.

Glow Plug Controller
The solid-state Glow Plug Controller, attached to the top of the engine block, controls the Glow Plug pre-glow and after-glow time. It also controls the circuit’s operation by sensing engine temperature, Glow Plug voltage and after-glow voltage from the start/run circuit.

When the Ignition Switch is turned to START or RUN, voltage from Maxi-fuse K is applied through the Glow Plug Controller to the Wait-To-Start Indicator Lamp.
The Glow Plugs heat up in zero to fifteen seconds, depending on engine coolant temperature. After the Glow Plugs heat up, the controller cycling switch opens and turns the Wait-To-Start Indicator Lamp off. The Glow Plugs are now warm enough for the engine to be started.

At the same time the Ignition Switch is turned to RUN, voltage from Maxi-fuse K is applied to the after-glow timer (located inside the Glow Plug Controller). The after-glow timer cycles the Glow Plugs for up to two minutes, depending on engine temperature. The after-glow timer then opens. The Wait-To-Start Indicator Lamp will not light during the after-glow period.
If the Ignition Switch is turned OFF, it can be turned to ON immediately, and the Glow Plug heating cycle will start again.

Diesel Start/Run
The diesel engine uses two batteries to provide extra power for starting and Glow Plug heating. Power is applied from the batteries, through heavy gauge wires, to the Starter Solenoid (located in the Starter Motor assembly). When the Wait-To-Start Indicator goes out, the Ignition Switch can be turned to START.

With the Ignition Switch in START or RUN, voltage is supplied to the Fuel Heater, Fuel Shutoff Solenoid, and the Engine Temperature Switch through Maxi-fuses K and U.
The Fuel Heater is in the Fuel Filter/Separator. It heats the diesel fuel, melting any wax that might clog the filter. The heater has an internal thermostat to turn it on as needed at 32*F.

The Fuel Shutoff Solenoid controls the flow of fuel into the injection pump. With the Ignition Switch in START or RUN, the Solenoid is energized, and fuel is allowed to flow into the injection pump. When the Ignition Switch is turned off, the solenoid is deenergized, fuel flow stops, and the engine stops running.

The Engine Temperature Switch provides voltage to the Cold Timing Advance Solenoid and the Cold Idle Solenoid. When the engine temperature is below 112°F (44°C), the Engine Temperature Switch is closed. When the Ignition Switch is turned to START or RUN, the solenoids are energized, advancing injection pump timing and engine idle, allowing the engine to run more smoothly when cold. When the engine temperature reaches 112°F (44°C), the Engine Temperature Switch opens. This deenergizes the solenoids, returning the timing and idle to normal.

If you click on the names of members it will tell you if they accept emails or PMs..........

 

The light panel with the water in fuel light also contains the glow plug indicator. If that wait to start light is not lighting when You turn the key to ON. Then You have a problem in the Glow Plug System.

There's Your hard starting problem, right there.

 

Look over the Dash real good and see if you find a Hmm what is this switch for. Alot of people put their glowplugs on a switch (hopefully a momentary or push button). If their is one push the switch for 10 seconds and she should fire right up if the starter/batts are good.

 

im also having cold start probs, wait to start light /buzzer goes off for approx 5-10 secs. then i will try to crank it. my issue is fuel system related, basically, the fuel "drains" out of the lines, and takes a minute to re-pressurize the lines. any well known spots for leaks?

this is on an 86 f250 w/ a 6.9L im going to be diagnosing/ fixing the little probs with this truck as i can, we have 10-20 degree mornings here rioght now, once in a while it gets to about -8 and the truck just chockes up. it may also have to do with the fuel heating system... any help would be appreciated

bryan

 

The water seperator that's on the firewall to the driver's side of the brake booster/master cylinder is a NOTORIOUS place for air intrusion.

Also I would HIGHLY recommend changing out the entire return line system on the motor.
This set-up causes SO MANY problems that it will be WAY better in the long-run to just get a $40 kit and change the whole thing out and eliminate the potential problems.

 

thx, i was prob going to just replace all lines, but if return line/ seperator is all thats needed, then thats good news.

bryan

 

Can't garauntee that but that's the likely culprits.