Brake line advise
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,462
Likes: 1
From: Central Mississippi
Brake line advise
This nice weather today made me want to work on my 66... The next thing I've got to do is bend and run the metal brake lines coming off the proportioning valve to the master cylinder and to both front soft lines. My problem is that I've never bent any lines and I need to buy a brake line flare kit. Can anyone offer any advice on my install? and recommend a flare kit to purchase? Any and all comments welcome. 
It has the disc brake off of a 79. Oh yeah, if you want to come do it for me you are more than welcome to. 
It has the disc brake off of a 79. Oh yeah, if you want to come do it for me you are more than welcome to.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
From: Gaffney, SC
My advice would be to buy pre-flared lines, especially if you've never used the flaring tool. They are available at NAPA in every length imaginable and are very inexpensive. You really don't need any special tool to bend the lines, though you can buy a bending tool if you want to. When I replaced all my lines I think I bent 'em around an old wooden handle and I didn't have any trouble with kinking at all.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 998
Likes: 2
From: Benton, AR
I replaced the lines on my 64. I borrowed a buddies flaring tool. Its nothing scary. I bought a roll of line and the hardware and just cut to lengths I needed and flared. Just don't forget to put the bolt on before you flare, lol. You can also just buy pieces for short distances, but longer pieces like those needed to run to your passenger side rubber line are pretty long and may require you buy two separate pieces and hook together. Either way, the steel line is the cheapest part of your brake job.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,462
Likes: 1
From: Central Mississippi
Yeah, I bought both soft lines today from autozone and it cost $30.00. I'll check my hardware store tomorrow for the line and hardware and see if I can borrow a flare tool, heck I might even see if autozone has one to lend out.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 306
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From: Berthoud, Colorado
Make sure you double flare the ends. You will need the flaring tool and the little pieces that go in the tube to make the double flare. The best way to bend the lines is to use a bender, sometimes if you try to bend it around something you will kink it. The tube need to be pulled through the radius die. either way will work, with the bender you will get a nicer bend.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,462
Likes: 1
From: Central Mississippi
Ok, I'll check that out tomorrow, is the flaring tool different between the single and double flare?
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 306
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From: Berthoud, Colorado
No, you just neeed to make sure you get them when you get the flaring tool. They usally have instructions on how to do it, it is pretty easy.
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 549
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From: chicago burbs
do not be afraid to practice the doubble flare. i watched two mechanics at meineke for hours trying to get it right. i suggest taking time and getting it right the first time, imo most important system. just me $.02
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,785
Likes: 4
From: Mddl A MexCans
I suggest just buying the prepared lines. I did it this way on my 66' and they had correct lengths for all but the pass rear already on the shelf. The main line to the rear required two lines and a union. The whole thing ran me about $30.00 from Hub Auto. The money saved in curse words and walking to pick up thrown parts was well worth it. 
I used a piece of PVC I had laying around to coil the tube for the master cylinder. Note: the brake rubber lines at the front can be a biatch to get get mounted to the backing plate with the wheel cylinders tightened into place sometimes. BOL
I used a piece of PVC I had laying around to coil the tube for the master cylinder. Note: the brake rubber lines at the front can be a biatch to get get mounted to the backing plate with the wheel cylinders tightened into place sometimes. BOL
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2007
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If the difference is just a few dollars between flaring tolls spend the extra dollars. Quality counts on this situtation and the few dollars extra will save you frustration. Make sure you follow the instructions about using a drop of light oil when doing the flare to keep the flaring tool from pushing to one side and ruining your flare. Make sure the tube is cut square and is deburred before attempting the flare too. I used an inexpensive bending tool and it worked fine and used a WD-40 can to bend the common "flex spool" you see below the master cylinder to absorb frame flex and vibration.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 148
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From: Sunspot NM, USA
I also buy the premade lines from napa. The usually carry them in lengths from 3 inches to 7 feet. They also carry brass female tube connectors if you need to put a couple of the 7 footers together. For the other guy that asked, YES, the flair nut is on both ends. I have used the flaring tool but with the lines costing $3 to $6 a piece, its a waste of time. When you are down their, they have a nice mini pipe bender that works well, you can also bend it carefully with your fingers.
If you are going to buy a flaring set, don't buy the cheapy. I have a snapon kit and it works great.
If you are going to buy a flaring set, don't buy the cheapy. I have a snapon kit and it works great.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Also went with the Napa fuel lines then cut and shaped to fit. However, bikerdud has a point, if it requires buyer tube cutter, a flaring tool, and couple types of tube benders, it may be few dollars more but less labor intensive. If decide to go with the 'do it yourselfer' posting couple links to articles may find helpful.
Brake Line Basics - Tech Articles - Classic Trucks Magazine
Bending Stainless Steel Tubing - Car Craft Magazine
Brake Line Basics - Tech Articles - Classic Trucks Magazine
Bending Stainless Steel Tubing - Car Craft Magazine
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,462
Likes: 1
From: Central Mississippi
Ok...I didn't get to the steel lines today as I ran into another problem. My soft brake line coming off the caliper hits the I-beam when I turn the wheels to the right, the soft line is a new one to fit a 79, that's what the brakes came off of, The I-beam is the 66's original. Also it seems the soft line is to short. Here are 2 pics showing where the line hits the I-beam. 
. The second pic shows it hitting.
. The second pic shows it hitting.