Driveshaft/pinion angles?
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Senior User
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From: Roseburg, Or
Driveshaft/pinion angles?
Trying to get my takeoff shudder figured out with my 8" lift. Does anybody know where I need to be in terms of angles for my pinion and driveshaft. Tyring to figure out what I need to do to solve this problem.
Thanks,DB<cite></cite>
Thanks,DB<cite></cite>
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From: ct
all suspension?
if so, yea, yer driveline needs tending to.
your front d/s reach yer pumpkin? i would think you would have to have it lengthened/
as for the rear d/s, you prolly just need either:
-indexing ring to clock the t-case
-have d/s modified
-lower the t-case
or just adjust the pinion angle, but i would drop the t-case and yer vibes will go away.
if so, yea, yer driveline needs tending to.
your front d/s reach yer pumpkin? i would think you would have to have it lengthened/
as for the rear d/s, you prolly just need either:
-indexing ring to clock the t-case
-have d/s modified
-lower the t-case
or just adjust the pinion angle, but i would drop the t-case and yer vibes will go away.
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Roseburg, Or
Yea i have traction bars. Front driveline no problem. Rear driveline shudder on takeoff. I was just wondering if there was a baseline angle for the pinion or driveshaft, ratio or something.
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From: Frederick, MD
try a spacer of about 2" on the carrier bearing. That should help to lower the driveshaft and assist.
You will want to do something soon as my experience was waiting too long and then the pinion seal started leaking. That was my 06 F250.
You will want to do something soon as my experience was waiting too long and then the pinion seal started leaking. That was my 06 F250.
Elder User
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All the u-joints should berunning at the same angle. This is easly done with one shaft, you just change pion angle to match front u-joint. But with three u-joints it's A combunation of pion angle and lowering carrier bearing untill all u-joints are at about the same angle.
Post Fiend
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From: IL, USA
Sometimes having all the angles where they should be doesn't always work....some trucks are fun to fine tune 
As for the suggestion of indexing the transfer case.....all this does is push the t-case back 3/4" in terms of the rear shaft.
Front angle is lowered, rear stays the same as the rear output is inline with the input.
Traction bars fix axle wrap....they don't fix vibration from the driveline that are caused by the operating angles.
As for the suggestion of indexing the transfer case.....all this does is push the t-case back 3/4" in terms of the rear shaft.
Front angle is lowered, rear stays the same as the rear output is inline with the input.
Traction bars fix axle wrap....they don't fix vibration from the driveline that are caused by the operating angles.
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alright, because i am trying to fix mine also. dc i have about 5/8 to 3/4 inch of shims on mine do i measure from the 250 blocks or the 350 block. icon said to start with about 1'' i have their 4.5 hanger system be cause it does it even when i am towing my travel trailer
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post6945520
Oh wait....that was you in the old post. Sorry!
Last edited by high ho silver; Jan 8, 2009 at 06:11 PM. Reason: add comment
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Generally speaking, if there is a u-joint on each end of the shaft, the angles should be the same.
If there is a u-joint on one end, and a CV joint on the other, you should have as little angle as possible on the u-joint end, and make up for it with angle on the CV joint end.
In other words, u-joints impart a torsional vibe, CV joints do not.
If there is a u-joint on one end, and a CV joint on the other, you should have as little angle as possible on the u-joint end, and make up for it with angle on the CV joint end.
In other words, u-joints impart a torsional vibe, CV joints do not.
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