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I bought a set of the reverse lights that mount to the hitch with brackets. I have them tucked up high so you cant even see them unless you bend over. They came with 55w bulbs but I installed 100w bulbs. Hooked them to the upfitter switches (using a relay of course) and now its bright enough to get a sun tan back there.
You can do the same thing by hooking in to your reverse light rather than the upfitter (or both if you use a resistor) but I wanted mine on a switch so I can see when I am hooking up a trailer, playing in the woods, or whatever. The lights are especially funny when the teenage girl on the cell phone is 3 feet from the bumper and you hit the lights. I think thats known as a brake check.
I did the same thing as caprang... got the same lights at Pep Boys. In addition to using the Upfitters, I also hooked them up so that they come one when I put the truck in reverse. I used the schematics from Bear Hunters thread listed below. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...-question.html
Its easier than it looks.
85 - ground
30 - Battery (I put an in line fuse on this one)
86 - To the upfitter switch of your choice
87 - To your lights (or whatever accessory you might want to run)
This relay adds protection and also prevents voltage drop. I installed mine inside the frame rail by the spare tire.
I need to re-wire mine soon. I like the diagram here but what is the extra switched power go to? It already has power from the battery.
Its easier than it looks.
85 - ground
30 - Battery (I put an in line fuse on this one)
86 - To the upfitter switch of your choice
87 - To your lights (or whatever accessory you might want to run)
This relay adds protection and also prevents voltage drop. I installed mine inside the frame rail by the spare tire.
Is adding a relay necessary? I thought the factory installed upfitters were wired with a fuse and relay.
The "switched" power is used so that the ights will only work with the key on aux or if the truck is running. This helps prevent linadvertanly leaving them on and draining the battery. If you find the need to have them on without the key or the truck running then use a lighted switch to remind you that their on. Regardless, power is needed here to energize the relay coil.
The addition of the relay keeps the higher current wiring that the lights draw outside the cab, allows the use of lower gauge wiring and lower current rated switches to be used (for the relay coil power only) as well as eliminating a safety hazard.
The comment on wiring them to the back-up light circuit should be used with caution. Confirm your current draw of the lights you will be using so you don't overload the existing system. If your using a high current system you can wire a high current relay to the back-up wiring , this being your "switched" power (eliminating the manual switch in this case).
Yes the upfitters have their own relay but again only aux1 has the higher current rating (20 amps i believe) if in-fact you go with a high current set-up. If not i believe the others are good for 10 amps.
Yes the upfitters have their own relay but again only aux1 has the higher current rating (20 amps i believe) if in-fact you go with a high current set-up. If not i believe the others are good for 10 amps.
The 05-07 upfitters are rated 30 amps for #1 and #2, and 10 amps for #3 and #4.
I have my backup lights wired directly to upfitter #1 and I added an indicator light up high on my dash so that i wouldn't accidentally leave them on going down the road.
Just FYI, I was curious about this subject so I did some reading. My truck is a 2004 and my service and owner's manuals are model specific, so this might not apply to everyone, but I'd hazard a guess that they're all mostly the same.
There is a relay in the CJB for the trailer tow backup light wire. The owner's manual says relay 211 and it also says "Diesel engine only". It's fed by fuse #39 which is 15 amps. I don't know why it'd be different in a non diesel engine though.
I looked at a couple of backup light kits online and it appears they are typically two lights each with a 55 watt halogen bulb. A little math says that 110 watts at 12 volts is 9.16 amps, so figure 10.
So if all you're doing is just two 55 watt bulbs, you should be OK tapping into the trailer backup light wire without an additional relay. However, if you're putting in higher wattage bulbs you'd definitely want the additional relay. You'd also need to consider the additional amperage draw of the backup lights in your trailer or camper, if you are connecting one of those as well.
Correct, I wouldn't do this if you plan on hooking up your trailer as you would have trailer back-ups as well as the aftermarket back-ups. This would surely put you close or above your 15 amp Maximum. If you wanted to get ingenious you could install a disable switch or jumper configured so when the camper is plugged in it disables the aftermarket lights.
I've got that covered, my trailer doesn't have backup lights.
I'm not sure why they bother with trailer BU lights anyway, they are typically so far back and of the cheap / weak variety that they do nothing for you.
I'm not sure why they bother with trailer BU lights anyway, they are typically so far back and of the cheap / weak variety that they do nothing for you.[/quote]
Pretty much the same purpose as the factory reverse lights... I think they are more about letting the people around you know that you are backing up, not so much about helping you see behind you.
I wasnt going to get involved in this but since it was brought up... I also ran 2 lights on the back of my 28 foot enclosed trailer. I hooked in to the same relay I run for the trucks aux reverse lights and ran the wire with my trailer plug. 200 watts of light does help me back up and more importantly I live on a dark country road (speed limit 55 mph) so it alerts any fast approaching cars that I am backing in to my driveway.
I had the back up lights I installed wired direct to the ford upfitter switches , and it was fine.
I actually used to el-cheapo driving lights that I found on sale at an auto parts store.
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