I have a 78 4x4, and i'm looking at restoring the chassis. How difficult is it to completely tear down the front spindles? I have a chilton with exploded views however i've never done this. It looks like once the ***** joints are removedthe universals should just slip out. The caliper, spindle and knuckle look like a pain in the pills to remove...

Any tips would be appreciated.

 

Assuming that you have a D44 in the front (you mentioned universals, and king pins, so I can assume 4x4 D44 right?) you do not have to take the front end apart too far.
Do you have to replace the ball joints? You do not have to take the knuckle off to remove the axle shafts.
You simply have to remove the brakes, remove the lockouts, bearing nuts, hub, then the spindle. Once the spindle is off, the axle shaft will slide right out. The knuckle can stay attached to the inner "C".
If you have to or choose to replace the ball joints, then you may do so at this point.
You should pay attention to the prder in which the locking hub assembly comes apart. This will help you put everything back together again.
Special tools? You will need some snap ring pliers, and a set of mechanics picks are nice. You could make or just buy an axle nut socket for a D44. These are fairly cheap and make the job much easier.
You may have a heak of a time just removing the spindle. Many parts stores will rent you a spindle puller. This also makes the removal process much easier.
If you must replace the ball joints, then a ball joint press is gonna be a real plus.

 

thanks man, that's the reponse i was hoping to get and yess i have a D44.

The ***** joints are shot so i have to replace them, i want to tear everything else down so i can clean it all up, inspect it and paint it all. I'll rent the tools you suggested and get started. Thanks again

 

here's another question, the joints in the drag link, tie rod and tie rod end, can they be replaced? If so does anyone know a part number or a place to look for them? I keep finding complete replacements, meaning the entire drag link and tie rod assembly.

 

This will depend on which style steering that you have. Do have any pics?
These are easy for me to identify with some pics.
In most case the entire drag link will have to be replaced. Only the coupler can be reused.
Pics will help.

 

I do not have any pics yet. You're right the only thing that can be reused is the coupler.

Anyway i got all the way down to the spindle and again you're right it's ahuge pain in the pills. My question is how does a spindle puller work, the ones i've seen are threaded on, i have no threads on my spindle???

Any tips on this would be great i'm almost there.

EDIT: Yes i do have threads on the spindle.

 

I've always just used a dead blow hammer or a small sledge and piece of 2x4 to get the spindles off....of course not on the bearing race or threads....or thread the nut back on and hit that with the dead blow.....

 

Didn't you ask this same question several days ago in another thread?

I gave you the answer then, here it is again.

The ball joints are swagged into the tie rod, tie rod end and draglink, and so...cannot be purchased separately.

The draglink (Reg Cab: D8TZ3304A; S/Cab: D8TZ3304B) is a one piece assembly.

The right tie rod (D8TZ3A130B), coupler (D7TZ3310A) and left tie rod end (D7TZ3A131A) are sold separately, not as an assembly.

 

Yeah i asked it in another thread it was the 73-79 forum, i wasn't getting very many hits here. I got it thanks.

 

OK enough with the annoying sissy question i've been asking lately, i think i have a real problem now.

I got the spindles off, this has been the most frustrating job i've ever attempted, anyway i put the ball joint press on the upper ball joint and started turning. That thing didn't budge. I noticed a collar in the ball joint socket, what is it and do i need to remove it before cranking on the ball joint? Please help...

 

You need to remove the knucke from the axle. Remove upper/lower BJ nuts, The camber bushing needs to come off the upper next. I use an air chiseland drive it up and out. Then get a bfh and either drive the lower bj down and ruin the threads if you are replacing it or hit the side of the axle where the bj taper goes in. then press the old bj's out & new in

 

Do NOT bang on the upper ball joint stud, you will mushroom it out and it will never come off unless you cut the stud. You don't want to be in that situation.

Once you have the spindle off: Remove both the upper and lower ball joint nuts. Flip the castle nut over and put it back on the stud upside down. Then bang the &^(* out of it with a BFH. You don't need to remove the camber adjuster this way.

 

Finally got them out, thanks for all of the replies and help. What a crappy job, one side was easy the other a pain in the pills.

My question is regarding the collar for the upper ball joint what is the name of the tool to remove this and what is the torque spec on it for the new one?

 

The tool is called a hammer, and there is no torque spec. It just fits into place, it's not threaded.

 

Finally got them out, thanks for all of the replies and help. What a crappy job, one side was easy the other a pain in the pills.

My question is regarding the collar for the upper ball joint what is the name of the tool to remove this and what is the torque spec on it for the new one?