Will I get away with just cutting them though to save some dough?

 

I would say Yes, I would try to cut them before replacing them.

 

i changed the pads, they were shot. Had the rotors cut, put a new brake line on the drivers side, the slide pins on the braket that holds the caliber were locked on the drivers side had to torch them and relube them and the truck still pulls to the right when i brake.

 

to bad you just didnt replace the slide pins, that would have ruled that out.

To me it is either a slide sticking or a caliper sticking. Sometimes when the caliper pistons are out far the get corrosion or rust/ scale. It causes them to stick. so 1 side applies and the other side doesnt unitl more pedal pressure is applied, thus causing the pull. Who knows maybe a balljoint to.

No vibration when driving right? If you have a vibration this could meen a belt broke or slipped. That will also cause a rogue pull

 

No Vibration, I take pretty good care of the truck and the calibers are very clean and both pistons since its a truck it has duel pistons were clean on the calibers so i guess ill have to go with the rebuilt caliber who knows.

 

My opinion , or what I would do next is. Stop by a local garage and ask them what is the common cause. I really dont think it can be very major, but if you start throwing money at it , it will become very expensive. Even a 4 wheel drive shop, Not a big name shop but even a little shop in the area. They will be more apt to help you, rather then say bring it in and let us have a look.

When you drive the truck, does 1 rotor become hotter then the other? If so, you could also be experiencing brake fade causing the pull. You might in a parking lot apply hard braking 1 time to a stop, then get out and check the rotor temp. Dont burn your fingers thought.

I am just trying to throw out info on what I would do

 

I went to a good machine shop today guy turned the rotors for me and told me to replace the caliber he sent me to a place that sold rebuilt calibers and they sold aftermarket stuff (i prefer oem) before that i went to ford and got oem pads for the front 105 bux got my rotors turned for 40 they were powerslot slotted rotors they look brand new now. And when i went to the parts store they told me that it sounds like the brake hose needed to be replaced only 22 bux so i said ill do that instead of the caliber 80 bux. I brought the pads in the drivers side had about 1/8th left on the pads the pass side had the pads worth past the wear indicators they wouldn't have made it another month.

I got home reassembled the pass side then got the drivers side done i went to mount the caliber to the slide pins when i realized they wouldn't pull or push or turn i took the bracket off my truck got my acetylene torch out and heated the **** out of it the one slide pin i got out no problem with some vise grips and i wire brushed and relubed it the other one was the one i needed to really heat up. I use this torch to melt lead on my day job. i pulled the pin and cleaned it up and relubed and then put the boots back on the pins.

I surely thought the locked pins was the problem. The pull isn't too bad its just annoying im very **** and like things done right so now i think that the truck needs an alignment too which it is due for anyways had it since new and never had it aligned.

I appreciate your help Mustang6147, my other ride is an 02 gt.

 

I am just like you, I hate it when the obvious is not the problem, I gotta ask,... ball joints OK for sure?.. I guess the alignment shop will let you know..

my lower joint was so bad, the yoke would shift back on hard braking, & it would pull.. good luck, let us know what u find out.

 

so today i got 2 rebuilt calipers for 100 bux i changed both of em now it stops on a dime but it still pulls to the right!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! My uncle checked the balljoints hes a car nut i havent talked to him yet because he had to leave his house, i changed the calipers at his place cause he has every tool knows to man. Like an pneumatic impact wrench

this is getting ridicules

 

What do you mean a belt broke where? I think I would know if a belt went theres only 1 main belt.

 

I have the same problem. Just had new callipers and pads put on front end. Problem is better but is still an issue. I also may need a minor alignment. Does anyone have any ideas?

Had left front brake line replaced. Mechanic said fluid flow was good on lines. All parts motorcraft from the dealer.?????????

Pulling tends to happen most after driving for a while and breaks have been used some. Rotors in good shape. I have no idea and nobody else seems to either.

 

Swap the front tires left to right. See if it changes pull direction.

Make sure the wheel base is the same left to right. Possible spring center pin broken causing the axle to move or be out of position.

 

Thanks for the reply--

Did just rotate tires, but did front to back. Will try side to side. Heard Ford is having issues with ball joint premature wear and fail. Could it be ball joints. Had them replaced right b4 truck went out of warranty.

 

It could be, it's very hard to tell if it's only on agressive braking. You need to see if you can do several hard stops and then measure the rotor temperature. That would tell you if the brakes aren't working the same or if the suspension/steering is moving around causing the problem. Is the pull consistent when it does it or does it momentarily pull and the brake straight?

 

Its kinda all over the place, hard breaking, tapping etc... Once brakes are released and then reapplied it seems to be OK. I would have to say that the pull happens worse when the brakes are lightly applied. Sometimes pull is hard, sometimes pull is light. The truck was pulling even b4 callipers and pads were replaced. Lots of brake dust on the passenger side front wheel. I will check wheel temp when I get back in truck.