I don't find the torque converter drain plug on my '06, which my '02 had.

 

I have an '04 w/5.4 and it does not have a T/C drain. I would not try to drill and tap one because of the fluid pressure in the T/C. I ordered a 40291 B&M deep pan so I can change the fluid a lot easier. I will probably go with Mobil 1 ATF when I change the fluid.

 

Hey ken you happen to have the part # for that laying around, also does it matter which tranny hose you put it on ( is it a bi-flow filter)

 

Hey Djack: What converter pressure? There's no pressure on it sitting still and it'd be pretty tough to drill while it was running ( : < ). I'll grant you, drilling and tapping the converter is a "measure twice drill and tap once" kinda job, with a mistake being costly, but once done, it's as good as the factory plug. The only difference between converters with or without plugs is the tapped hole and the plug. In fact, you can still buy the factory plug from Ford, part number 391346S is what I wrote down, but my parts guy said they were a seldom sold item.

Digentry: It is NOT a bi flow filter, but is directional. IMO, it doesn't really matter which line you install it on as long as it's installed in the direction of flow. I prefer to put a filter in line BEFORE the cooler, to keep junk from building up in there, but the factory wants you to put it after the cooler to catch the stuff that is already caught there and may wash downstream into the trans (they only specify using the filter after a trans failure and repair or replacement). I don't remember which line is which off the top of my head and with six inches of snow on the ground, I'm not going out there to look for you (: < ), but you can discover which is which easily enough. My manual shows it being installed on the line that goes out of the auxiliary OTA (Oil To Air) cooler and heads directly back to the trans. They also show the non-OTA insto but it's hard to determin which line is which and they don't show it all that cleariy in the illustration. The Ford number on my kit is XC3Z-7B155-CA and Ford dealers have them.

 

Jim, I was born at night but not last night. I was not referring to a running engine but to fluid pressure on the plug if the converterunder a heavy load. I take it you have done this successfully before. Is this in a current manual or TSB? Is the filter the same as a Wix #58953 which is an inline transmission for a Honda? It has 7/16" lines though.

 

Djack: It was a friendly jibe, son! That's why I put the smiley there, which was me, "Smiling while I said that, pardner!" No insult intended.

My point was that there is no difference in a factory drilled and tapped converter and one you drill and tap yourself yourself. If it worked from the factory,it will work for you. Assuming you do it in the same spot and don't screw up the drilling or tapping. The only potential difference might be that the factory cooler was balanced after the hole was drilled and tapped. I ran this by some engineers and they said the change in balance would be minimal (you drill out some metal and put a piece of metal in to fill the hole, essentially maintaining balance). But they said if you were worried, to drill and tap a second hole exactly 180 degrees opposite to balance it.

Yes, I have done it, though not on a 4R75E. I was all set to do it and then realized how easy it is to flush from the cooler lines. I've done it on several GM transmissions a Mopar and a Ford C5 (which was supposed to have one but didn't). No problems in any of these instances.

As to the filter, I have one of those manuals on CD, and it shows the filter replacement in there, with illustrations, in the tranny section.

As to the Wix 58953, people keep saying it's a rebadged Magnefine (as is the Ford filter) but not having seen it, I can't say for sure. I have one of the Ford filters to install on my Honda come the next service. My '00 Honda has 3/8 ID lines, however, not 7/16".

 

I think any way of doing it yourself, keeping it away from some of the incompetant idiots at a dealership is always a good strategy.

If you have a great tech at a dealer, and can be sure only that person ever works on your truck, then great.

Otherwise be sure and do it yourself, and know its done right.

 

I asked the dealer and a very solid tranny shop in the area all of these questions and voiced my concerns as I am old school as well. I opted for the flush at the dealer. I did it at 40k. I have an '04 Expy by the way. I don't think it's totally unlike the F-150's of similar vintage. Supposedly the machine removes all the sludge from the pan, back flushes the screen and cleans and removes 99% of all the old fluid and replaces exactly the amount that was removed. I don't know too much about it, but I'm confident that it's the right answer.

Tim

 

Jim, The Wix 58953 is made for Honda Accords, Civics, etc. Also, tseekis the only flush machines that I have seen you diconnect the cooler lines, fill unit with new fluid, crank engine and the transmission pump pumps the old fluid out as it forces the new in. This is done as a piston like chamber that keeps them separate. I am sure some machines are different but I have not seen any work. Jim, where did you get the disc?

 

You did the same as I had done. I did mine at only 20,000 miles because I just bought it and wanted to get my AMSOIL in. After reading all the replies, I think I am going to put a large strong magnet on the outside of my pan and install an inline filter in the engine bay.

 

Found on e-Bay a few years ago.

 

I was considering using Mobil 1 at my fluid change to have full synthetic until I discovered that Valvoline Mercon V is the same at a lot less cost. I am going to change it and install a new pan soon.

 

Just wanted to update on something. According to my manual, where the cooler lines are on the passenger side of the trans, the lower line is the out line (to the cooler) and the upper is the return from the cooler. The hot fluid enters at the top side of the radiator and if you have an auxiliary cooler, the bottom line out of the radiator will feed it. Without the aux cooler it will lead back to the return port on the trans.

 

Changed the fluid and installed a B&M deep pan last Sunday. I used Valvoline Mercon V which is synthetic. I like the pan but I left the magnet out because I did not want to risk have it get on the valbdy, filter or linkage. The pan has no way to secure it being it is aluminum. It does have a magnetic drain plug though. I may add the 58953 Wix filter later, it has a magnet to hold metal.

 

Awesome you got it done.

I like to always try and keep up on stuff, so wonder if you have any good links to info on the valvoline oil you chose?
So far i have only used the origianl motorcraft oil when changing it in my vehicles, or for others.
I guess thats why the ford dealer parts dept. loves me, i spend a pile of cash there.
Thanks