My ignition failed recently. Before it quit it backfired enough to blow off a vacuume line and blow a little oil out the power steering pump. I didn't know this at the moment. I just heard a bang, the checklight came on and the truck ran smooth for a few more miles until it died as if the key was switched off. Don't know if this is related to the now non starting engine.

I saw the vacuume line off and figured that it was what kicked on the checklight. I disconnected the battery to clear the light. I know, big mistake, no way to check for codes...

I followed the Haynes trouble shooting. Coil didn't meet OHM specs in haynes so haynes says replace it. I checked the new coil and it ohmed the same as the old one. Does Haynes have stock in auto parts???? Checked the distributor wires with the pin/VOM and only got voltage from the ignition module after disconnecting the spout. Haynes says it must be the ignition module by process of elemination. Replaced the module, still no sparky. I marked the distributor alignment on the oil filter. The two dis cap screws are at 10 o-clock and 5 o-clock. The 5 o-clock screw lines up with the middle of the oil filter. I got the new distributor installed. New Cap, wires and motorcraft plugs. My mistake here was not noting the rotor poition in relation to the mark on the oil filter.

I have a 1996 and the last time I had a timing light on it was in 1990. The timing marks on the pulley don't match a damn thing. Not the pointer and not the cover marks. Back then someone here suggested TDC on #1 and paint a mark on the pulley to match the cover degree markings on the drivers side and that is what I did then. New cap and rotor match #1 on distributor.

Does anyone else have a truck where the timing marks don't match anything?

I can't get this SOB to run to save my life. It has duel tanks. Both show about 55 - 56 LBS of pressure. Plugs get moist with fuel. Tried both tanks. Checked all relays with a battery charger and ohm meter, all appear to work.

Coil is firing, plugs firing. Relays cycle when distributor is moved. It almost catches on and then won't. I am using a remote starter switch. Will this keep the computer from taking over the run position? (By not using the key?) I have tried the key many times as well without sucess...

When I rotate the distributor to get it to go, should the spout connector be IN or OUT? Key switch or remote switch? Or does it not matter?

Thanks for any tips/tricks... My luck is never good. Easy things are hard. Hard things more difficult...

 

I got myself in some trouble there too.I'm no expert but here goes. No prob usen remote start switch it'll fire when its right.#1 is timed on passenger side not driver, not real ez to see but it should be there. Theres a notch on the balencer that sorta matches up to #4(not the right one to time off of)thats on the driver side of my truck.Again not the right cylender but might get you started then time out #one the right way,if thats the real problem.Good luck

 

First post should read: hadn't had a timing light on it since 1999...

Anyway, I tried turning the distributor VERY slowly and could get it to run for short durations. But it would not run smooth and I could not get it to rev up at all. I can't get a real good look at the mark I made on the pully with the timing light, but it looks like it is firing a bit late. I just realized that I should probably have the spout out when I turn the distributor. Now that I think about it I am probably fighting the computer with the spout in once the engine is running. What puzzles me is that the distributor appears to be in the same spot as the old one and the distributor cap screw aligns with the mark I made on the oil filter. I was sure that the piston was at TDC. Not sure If I should pull the distributor and back it up a tooth or what?

 

Set the timing with the spout connector out.

If the marks don't line up, then just try moving it around until it runs, if it will.

The ring on the balancer can slip, causing the marks to be way off.

You can check tdc with the spark plug out and tool or rod.

 

OK, Here is the latest. To RECAP: Truck has always ran smooth as a sewing machine. Never a problem, then the Ignition failed. Trouble shooting said replace the ignition module. I did with Auto zone. AZ $50 /lifetime warranty vs. FMC $180 no warranty, no exchange, no way to test) Still No Spark. Changed distributor, cap, plugs (Motor Craft), wires. NOW Coil fires good as do the spark plugs. Truck won't start. Checked TDC a thousand times. Got some nice backfires. Screwed with everything checking and double checking. Finally got Engine to barely idle and not rev at all. Making awfull noises shakin and shimyin...

Out of desperation I plugged in the original TFI with a ground wire. The truck fired right up and ran good except for a definate miss. Found new plug number four not firing. Good wire, bad plug. Put old plug in and that works. But it is still missing and rough running. I have reverified that all plugs are firing but when I remove the number two wire from the plug with engine running it seems that there is no change and it smells rich.

In the beggining I asked AutoZone if they could check TFI. They said No. Just found out Advanced can check the TFI so I am off with both TFI's to get tested.

I know I have the distributor dialed in close but it still seems like the actual firing of some plugs/injectors? are off time. I have tried to find out what tells the injectors to fire. Is it the TFI? Or something in the distributor? Fuel pressure is good between 55 and 60 PSI.

 

Latest update: After checking all posibilities several times I figured I would try another distributor since the one I just installed has a lifetime warranty. After getting the second distributor installed I went to put on the cap and noticed the bolt fall right thru. The threads are gone in the distributor. I called AutoZone and got distributor number three on order. I Used a spring clamp to hold the cap on and fired it up. It did some shaking and pop popin as it warmed up. It seemed to clear up after several minutes. Hopefully this will be the end of my troubles with distributor #3.

So far, One bad TFI (lifetime warranty), one bad MotorCraft spark plug(1 year warranty), two bad distributors (lifetime warranty). One bad wire (lifetime warranty) of a new set of Bosch wires, probably from yankin wires and plugs about twenty times.