Some of you may recall, a while back I made a post or two about my brake booster, and how the hissing pedal tells me it needs replaced. Well, it's still not replaced, but the hissing is getting so annoying that I figure I need to do something (not to mention, the whole situation is dangerous, I guess). So, I guess I have two questions about brake boosters, and one more that's equally important:

1. Would anyone recommend any specific brand of booster, or the best place to find one? Autozone's website has the boosters at about $80, but they aren't sold in-store seperately (they come with a $40 master cylinder which I don't really need), so I'd have to order it online. Are there any cheaper, or in actual stores?

2. I've read some instructions on how to replace the brake booster, and it doesn't look too bad. That's what I thought about my heater core, though, before I went taking out the glovebox, removing the cowl, and almost having to remove the hood to get it out. Is a brake booster change-out pretty straightforward, or are there more things that would need to be done to even get to the bolts?

And, number 3. If my booster does happen to undergo a total failure while I'm driving, how safe is it to continue? Will the effect come and go, leaving me with power brakes at random intervals, or will it be entirely manual braking? Also, would this be bad for my truck?

 

I am also very interested in knowing the answer to this. Mine is doing the EXACT same thing,and it is leaking slightly where the booster meets the master cylinder. Is your entire brake booster surface-rusted? Mine is, and looks pretty bad

 

I think it's probably best to replace the master cylinder with the booster. If you install the master cylinder incorrectly to the booster the company may not warranty a booster failure. If you replace the entire thing it's four nuts, and two brake lines.

 

You should be able to get just the booster from most auto part places. MAKE sure you get the correct one for your vehicle weight rating. On my 84 F250 the prevous owner replaced the booster and make the mastercyclinder(MC) to fit it. The mounting ear holes were enlarged. I found out the hard way when the MC failed me. I got the correct MC for my year and weight,but it would not mount on the booster, went back got the 2nd MC, it fit the booster but the brake lines were backwards(diffrent line sizes), after the 3rd MC and somehow gained $30 to boot(core charges was returned or something to that effect...LOL) I had to modify(enlarge holes) the 1st MC to fit the booster. Now when I replace the cab , I am going to get the correct booster for my truck so I don't have this problem again.

So Ford must of "keyed" the MC and booster so wrong parts(saftey factor) won't interchange.

Its a somewhat easy job to change it out, 4 bolts or nuts hold it in place, pull the brake leaver arm to booster from the pedel and it should pull out. While you have it out, its a good time to fix any firewall dammage hidden by it, IE clutch MC breaking through fire wall if you have a manual tranny

IF your booster does fail, you just got to press alot harder than normal on the brake. Not good for fast stopping though!! Also your engine probly will idle higher due to the vacuum leak of the booster.

 

I bought just the booster at O'reillys.The master is only $15.00 more, so change both. It was all under $75.00. If you bleed the master, you do not have to bleed the wheel cylinders. It is very easy.(under an hour)

 

I agree with the MC + booster change, but disagree with the statement that you don’t have to bleed the entire system. You will introduce air and moisture when you break the sealed system; the entire system must be bled. This is also a good time to completely flush the system so buy plenty of fluid (Quart) and run it through. I've been using Prestone Synthetic Dot 3 and no complaints so far. Old brake fluid + water = corrosion ($)

 

I had a similar problem. I wanted to use a booster from a 90 F-250 to replace the bad one in my 85 F-250. The booster bolted right in but the MC studs were too far apart to mount my old MC. I bought some line adapters and used the 90 MC as well. It saved some weight since it's plastic and aluminum instead of iron. Just to show you how interchangeable some of those things can be, my brother is using a MC for a 67 mustang in his 1940 dodge truck.

 

Sycostang, I have always wondered if the newer style plastic reservior MC would work. So what are these line adapters you speak of and where did you get them? I think I may have to convert to the new MC + booster. My booster hisses as well anways.

 

My vote is also go with the mater cylinder/booster combo. $80.00 is cheap. They used to be over $100.00 when I replaced mine about 10 years ago. There is a critical length adjustment for the rod that goes to master cylinder from the booster, so the combo eliminates that.

And if you bench bleed the master cylinder to get all the air out, take the old unit off, install the new unit, install the lines but leave them loose, you can get the air out without bleeding the whole thing. Tighten the lines, and then back them off a turn at the master cylinder. Get someone to push the brake pedal with the lines loose and let some fluid leak out. Get them to hold the pedal down till you get both lines tight, and 99% of the time, you won't have any air problems.

 

I went to an auto parts store and they had a drawer of brass fittings. They have adapters to connect different sized brake and metal fuel lines. I brought the new and old MC with me to help figure out which sizes I would need. They only cost a few dollars.

 

Ok, not to throw a wrench into things but why not up grade to a hydroboost system out of a super duty 1999-up, The hydroboost has much more braking power than a vac booster, the down side is more work has to be done to put it in, but the end result is much better, I am upgrading my old systems in my trucks to hydroboost, one of which is a 1980 f-100 with manual brakes no booster, that one really needs a upgrade!!!!,

Well this is another thing to think about, just giving you a nother idea to go on, if you like to drive like I do the brakes are very important!!!!

 

The big problem with hydroboost (as anyone knows if they ever drove a GM equipped with it) is that if the engine FAILS you lose almost ALL braking ability. With the vacuum booster you can still push the pedal without breaking your leg.

 

The only guys I see swapping to the hydroboost system usually have the diesel engine with the crappy little belt driven vacuum pump. Even that system works ok, but the people that are hauling and pulling very heavy loads find the limits of the vacuum booster very quickly.

Otherwise the stock vacuum booster on a gas engine will be good enough for most everyone else.

 

Well if our engines failed that many times to cause a problem with a hydroboost system, would we be driving fords??, My mustang came from the factory with hydroboost and I love it, most of the newer cars and trucks come with hydroboost systems, for better brakes and to make room under the hood. Also our trucks are quit heavy and the hydroboost would help the brakes, also a rear disc brake upgrade will help a great deal, but if you can deal with the original brakes than go for it, but me I would rather bring our old fords to the 21st century, with better brakes, EFI, etc.

 

If you're pulling a load that your trailer brakes can't handle then you need a bigger trailer. Not better brakes on the truck. The stock vacuum system has NEVER failed us even pulling loads in excess of 13k pounds (with a half ton club wagon no less) so I do not see any advantage to the hydroboost system on a gas powered truck. If it was a diesel or a gas engine with low vacuum (large cam, bad rings, whatever) I could see the necessity. From what I've seen most of the newer cars use an ELECTRIC brake assist not a hydraulic one. Remember the hydroboost uses a seperate power steering pump to pressure the booster. So you'll need to fab up mounts.