Cold cab
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Cold cab
I had blocked off the fresh air intake for my heater this spring, so I thought I would be all set, making mucho more heat. Well I had to drive the truck up to the farm the other day and the cold air coming into that cab is inheritable. The vent door felt like it had a fan on in it, the front of the door had air pouring in, man it never got really warm in there.
I'm getting too old for this.
John
I'm getting too old for this.
John
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Colville, Washington
When you block off the fresh air intake, you force the heater system to get its air elsewhere. I think that caused more air leakage thru your other air sources, namely any leak point in your seals and weatherstripping. I am surprised you needed to try to get more heat out of it, I have not changed my heat system and have always had plenty of hot air(from the heater).
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
I wanted it to recirculate the air in the cab hoping for it to be hotter. I beginning to wonder if the heater core isn't gummed up because I don't think the air ever got hot. I know there are some mean air leaks in that cab, you can feel the cold air blowing like a ocean breeze between the seat and door.
John
John
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
These are notorious for rusting shut/partially shut, which restricts water flow to the heater core.
This valve is still available from Ford. NAPA and other parts stores might also carry it.
C3UZ18495A (Motorcraft YG133) / MSRP: $38.46 / FTEpartsguy.com price: $23.08
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Mddl A MexCans
John,
I put a brass T valve in place of it on mine. No more issues. Then just unhook the heater hoses from the engine, connect an old water hose with the end cut off to one of the hoses and turn the water on very slowly. Should begin to flow out the other hose, if its clean and flowing well then ? If it's all rusty and sluggish keep going with a slight bit of pressure not crazy like, and just let it do it's thing. The other thing I'd suspect is the nipple fitting on the water pump and or intake to have corroded to the point of impassable. Replace one if it's too worn to clean up. BOL
I'm with Putt no issues with too much heat in mine either, once she is at 180º it's all I can do to stay in the cab. Used drive with a window cracked, till it dawned on me I could push the heater **** back in until the cool/heat mix was just right LOL!!
I put a brass T valve in place of it on mine. No more issues. Then just unhook the heater hoses from the engine, connect an old water hose with the end cut off to one of the hoses and turn the water on very slowly. Should begin to flow out the other hose, if its clean and flowing well then ? If it's all rusty and sluggish keep going with a slight bit of pressure not crazy like, and just let it do it's thing. The other thing I'd suspect is the nipple fitting on the water pump and or intake to have corroded to the point of impassable. Replace one if it's too worn to clean up. BOL
I'm with Putt no issues with too much heat in mine either, once she is at 180º it's all I can do to stay in the cab. Used drive with a window cracked, till it dawned on me I could push the heater **** back in until the cool/heat mix was just right LOL!!
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 581
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From: Montana
I am having the same problem with my 250 4X4. it throws heat but not enough. when i got the truck i took the heating system completely out and cleaned it. the suggestions about restrictions in the feed lines is a good one. i am going to put it in the shop as soon as i finish my hard cover for it and take all of it apart.the temperture guage only goes up to 170 degrees so i suspect that the thermostat is prolly a summer one. if i recall correctly ND said that it is standard for the 300 six's but may put a 195 in for the winter. i took the connection off where it connects to the fresh air vent and just let that hang down and then sealed the hole. didn't help much. humidity got so high that i counldn't keep the windows defrosted. put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator and that helped some. still should throw more heat than it does. Dutch
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
I have an aftermarket valve in there now, that is 6-7 years old. Everything but the heated core has been refreshed or replaced. When I built the engine 34,000 miles back it got a new radiator, new hoses, I think I put the valve in sometime afterward. I had to pull the intake this fall so it got a new load of 50/50 coolant mix. I may pop the hood and work the valve by hand.
Thanks for the tips.
John
Thanks for the tips.
John
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From: darrington wash
my problem with the heating system, is i cant figure everything out... like if heat is in or out... and if defrost is in or out.. lol..
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From: Colville, Washington
It does not take much of a hole in the firewall or thru the door seals to cause heater issues when it gets cold. The heater core being plugged would be a big problem of course. If you have cold air blowing by your leg, it will be difficult to get enough heat to counteract that frigid blast!
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Thanks Dave, but with a near 1 year old grandson just down the road, I doubt mama would go for that. I am too damn old for another woman to try to retrain me to her liking so I guess I will have to make do in the chilly sunny south. I just put a photo of he & I in my album.
John
John
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From: Simi Valley, CA
A coupla disgruntled CA residents erected a sign on the Blythe side of I-10 that said: WELCOME TO CALIFORNIA - NOW GO HOME!
CalTrans removed the sign, but if geewilikers moves west, I'll personally go out there and put that sign back up!
CalTrans removed the sign, but if geewilikers moves west, I'll personally go out there and put that sign back up!
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From: N.W. Mo.
Check to see if the vent door is closed completely and has the seals still intact on the edges.
Also if there is any rust out under the truck that lets air into the front door post it will come out around the hinge openings and into the cab at the fronr edge of the door.
You should be able to stop most if not all of the air leaks. Just investigate a little.