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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 01:43 PM
  #16  
IZZYAZ's Avatar
IZZYAZ
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From: Story City, Iowa
My cluster was really dim when I first got my truck. I pulled the cluster out and cleaned it well. Clean all the connections on the circuit board and make sure there is no corrosion. Mine had some so I lightly sanded with 600 grit, but be very careful when doing this that you don't sand thru the board.
Also, pull the headlight ****. Mine was all gummed up from 30+ years. Replaced with a new one and put in new lights in the gauges, they shine bright and clear. But while you have it apart clean all the electrical connections and use dielectrode grease when putting it back together to stop the corrosion from coming back.
Also, when cleaning the gauges don't use Windex. I learned the hard way that it takes the lettering off the gauges. But a little white paint pen and they all look good as new.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 01:44 PM
  #17  
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Don't stop now guys. Lov what I'm finding out :-)
 
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 02:05 PM
  #18  
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NumberDummy
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1975/79 F100/350 Cluster Back / 1978/79 Bronco / 1975/91 Econoline

Originally Posted by ken selvy
I had to replace the backing plate from bronco graveyard, the backs rot out and the ones from bronco are abs plastic and wont rot.
The 1975/79 F100/350 & 1978/79 Bronco cluster backs rot out and turn to dust.

In 1981, Ford replaced the '75/79 cluster backs with the plastic types used on 1981 and later Econolines.

E1PZ10848A .. Cluster Back-Use with Amp & Oil Pressure Gauges / Obsolete

Fits: 1975/79 F100/350 / 1978/79 Bronco / 1975/91 Econoline.

Green Sales Co. in Cincinnati OH has 8 = 800-543-4959

Dennis Carpenter in Concord NC has 305 = 704-786-8139
-------------------------------------------------------
E1PZ10848B .. Cluster Back / Use with Amp and Oil Pressure (Idiot) Lights / Obsolete

Fits: 1975/79 F100/350 / 1978/79 Bronco / 1975/86 Econoline.

Green Sales Co. has 1.

Dennis Carpenter has 135.

These are not reproductions, Ford sold Carpenter their entire stock.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 05:22 PM
  #19  
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4x4 Bart
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The best thing to clean the circuit board connections is a pencil eraser. Just the right grit and not to aggressive...........bart
 
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 06:12 PM
  #20  
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nickbaize
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Originally Posted by decoy
Instrument cluster lights, etc. very dim. Some lights not working. Where could I get a new cluster board and How hard is it to fix?
While I'm here, need new interior door panels[black], floor pan[drivers side] !
First time on forum, thanks
Paul

I had the same problem with my 79 i bought a used one on ebay that was in excellnt cond for $50.00 and it fixed my problem
 
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 11:15 AM
  #21  
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Behemoth
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From: Spokane, WA
Aside from the maintenance tips that you've been getting here (new bulbs, clean the contacts, remove covers, etc.), there is another potential improvement to be made on our instrument clusters.

I've been tearing my office apart at home trying to find the contact information for a place here in Tacoma, WA that will take your instrument cluster, and retrofit it with LED's for more ambient background light. They can use a pale green LED like the lights look in our clusters, but it will be a LOT brighter.

As soon as I can find those notes, I'll post the info. I plan on having mine done before I put the cluster back in the truck...but I also plan on completely rebuilding the cluster too. I already have all the parts, just have to do it.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 08:59 PM
  #22  
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Incandensant bulbs produce a yellowish tint and when combined with the blue filters it makes green. I installed the high power LEDs that have 6 tiny bulbs per unit and what a difference it makes. I bought them from Your source for white face gauges and dash modification accesories - www.whitegauges.net
 
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 01:11 AM
  #23  
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Thanks guys.
As I was driving the ford today I got to thinkn' about some of the info I have rec'ed here and a question came up........
Are we looking at a 3 pc deal?
From the front looking at it we have the dash part with clear plastic lens
Then the actual gauges
Then the board with that the lights twist into
or am I thinking more then I should.
Sorry I'm asking so many ? but just want to do the right thing here before I pull the dash apart to order stuff.
Also need to find interior door panels in black with padded arm rest.
If you were to put a new carb on a 351m, what kind would you get?
Thanks again and always
Paul
 
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 06:45 AM
  #24  
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cujo8
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Originally Posted by decoy
Thanks guys.
If you were to put a new carb on a 351m, what kind would you get?
Thanks again and always
Paul
I would get a Holley or Edelbrock 600-650cfm carb with vacuum secondaries.
BTW, it is usually a good idea when asking a new question to start a new thread and give it a descriptive title like "Best carb for a 351m."
 
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 07:13 AM
  #25  
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firstonraceday
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Originally Posted by decoy
Thanks guys.
As I was driving the ford today I got to thinkn' about some of the info I have rec'ed here and a question came up........
Are we looking at a 3 pc deal?
From the front looking at it we have the dash part with clear plastic lens
Then the actual gauges
Then the board with that the lights twist into
or am I thinking more then I should.
Sorry I'm asking so many ? but just want to do the right thing here before I pull the dash apart to order stuff.
The instrument cluster consists of the lens (with the associated plastic down to the gauges. The gauges are attached to the plastic cluster back (where the lights are screwed in from the back). The printed circuit board is on the outside of the cluster back (the lights go through the appropriate holes in the cirsuit board and are screwed into the cluster back).

When you take it apart, the instrument cluster will essentially be in two parts - the lens and plastic assembly then the cluster back with gauges, lights and printed circuit board.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 10:55 AM
  #26  
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NumberDummy
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Originally Posted by firstonraceday
The instrument cluster consists of the lens (with the associated plastic down to the gauges. The gauges are attached to the plastic cluster back (where the lights are screwed in from the back). The printed circuit board is on the outside of the cluster back (the lights go through the appropriate holes in the cirsuit board and are screwed into the cluster back).
It's was not a plastic cluster back originally.

The plastic cluster back is a Ford replacement from a 1981/91 Econoline (gauges) or 1981/86 Econoline (idiot lights).

See post #18 for the Ford replacement info.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 03:58 PM
  #27  
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firstonraceday
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I know it wasn't plastic originally. I was just trying to explain what he would have when disassembling the cluster in reference to his question in post 23. Threw plastic in there thinking about what I now have in my 77.

BTW, what was the original material construction of the cluster back? Just curious as I went through the disintegration scenario on mine.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 04:11 PM
  #28  
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NumberDummy
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Originally Posted by firstonraceday
BTW, what was the original material construction of the cluster back? Just curious as I went through the disintegration scenario on mine.
Some sort of crappy composition material (that I believe included paper!) that after a few years, turned to dust!
 
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 08:16 PM
  #29  
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jcduerr
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if it hasnt been mentioned before clean up the contacts on the circut board with fine steel wool. add a second ground to the metal bonot sure what its called) on the back of the circut board
 
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 09:26 PM
  #30  
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firstonraceday
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Originally Posted by jcduerr
if it hasnt been mentioned before clean up the contacts on the circut board with fine steel wool. add a second ground to the metal bonot sure what its called) on the back of the circut board
IVR - Instrument Voltage Regulator
 
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