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I had a donut gasket on my '64 Galaxie leak after the bolts loosened up and it didn't sound like anything exhaust at all. It sounded like whistling and grinding like huge saw teeth going across metal. I think that if you fix that part or plug where it went (whichever) you'll be all good.
I just went out to the garage and was looking at an extra one that I have.The hose that you showed still has the check valve part in it, so you got a hole that is blowing out exhaust
You should be able to get at the bolts on the back of the head with a end wrench, but its damn tight and uncomfortable place to work. Use a step ladder, you might even need a mirror to see what your doing back there........good luck!
Can anyone tell me what side head (passanger or driver facing truck) this check valve would be? I've been feeling around and haven't been able to spot/feel anything in the heads where this hole might be...
There should be a tube that is attached to the back of both heads,connecting them both together.In the middle of the tube is a "T" where the check valve fits on,just behind/below the intake
I finally got the port plugged and the rusted out pieces on top of the motor taken care of... The noise is still there. The raspy sounding noise is audible from between the cab and bed. The motor is def. not the culprit on this one. Checked the smog pump in case it messed up, rotated fine and the smog equipment is still operable. Trans shouldn't be the problem here because at a sit still with the motor revved a little, the noise can be heard. It's only there when the RPM's are around 2500-3000 rpms and higher. Also, the truck feels like it is lacking power. I really hope i didnt damage anything by driving the distance with the crossover pipe off. Please, any suggestions will be appreciated.
You need a small mirror to see the tube at the back, and yes you could have damaged the motor running it this way.. unfortunately. You need to remove the tube completely and plug the holes in the heads, I used bolts and copper washers to do this on the motor below....
IN the pic below you can see the tube on the back of this nasty piece of work..
What could have happened to damage the motor with this pipe disconnected. Its hard to tell how long its actually been off.
It will cause the motor to run excessively lean which leads to detonation.. that's the stumbling and vibration you feel under load, and if this goes on long enough it can result in piston damage and lower compression. I had a 5.0 that developed a serious misfire and stumble that would show up as soon as the engine warmed up if you were highway driving, around town it wasn't as noticable. It never threw a code and eventually I figured out the tube at the back of the motor had rotted out. Once the tube was replaced the stumbling and misfire completely disappeared, but the damage was already done, the engine had suffered permanent and significant power loss.
If it was the tube going to the tail pipe it was just blowing air out the end of it instead of stoking the cats when the air pumps diverter valve kicked in. But you might want check it out further.I hate that emissions stuff too!
If it was the tube going to the tail pipe it was just blowing air out the end of it instead of stoking the cats when the air pumps diverter valve kicked in. But you might want check it out further.I hate that emissions stuff too!
That tube was rusted off at the top of the cat, its really not doing anything anyways.
But another thing i wanted to ask about....
This lil' dohicky isn't blowing air like it used to. Stoped about a week ago when the raspy noise was being heard. Maybe they are connected somehow? Bad smog pump? I rotated the pump and it felt free and had no noises really...
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