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Old Dec 31, 2008 | 09:14 AM
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Newbie questions

Hello all,
Just recently migrated from the lightning forum to the bronco forum. I just purchased a 92 bronco xlt with the 302 5.0. It has push button 4wd, but warn locking hubs. I would think these would be aftermarket, but not sure as they were on it when the guy I bought it from purchased it. Would the manual locking hubs affect the push button transfer case? I did get it to lock into 4wd drive before I bought it. There are no lights on the dash and the button lights are not working, so there is no way to no for sure whether or not 4ws has kicked in, without crawling underneath or managing to cause a front wheel to spin. Then, once it is in 4wd, how do you take it out? there is no button for that. I used to have an 86 with a stick for the transfer case, Then I knew when it was kicked in. Any help will be greatly appreciated, and I'm sure i will have more questions, I already do, but one at a time.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2008 | 09:22 AM
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Talking Congradulations on the new Bronco.

Originally Posted by special_k
Hello all,
Just recently migrated from the lightning forum to the bronco forum. I just purchased a 92 bronco xlt with the 302 5.0. It has push button 4wd, but warn locking hubs. I would think these would be aftermarket, but not sure as they were on it when the guy I bought it from purchased it. Would the manual locking hubs affect the push button transfer case? I did get it to lock into 4wd drive before I bought it. There are no lights on the dash and the button lights are not working, so there is no way to no for sure whether or not 4ws has kicked in, without crawling underneath or managing to cause a front wheel to spin. Then, once it is in 4wd, how do you take it out? there is no button for that. I used to have an 86 with a stick for the transfer case, Then I knew when it was kicked in. Any help will be greatly appreciated, and I'm sure i will have more questions, I already do, but one at a time.
Are the hubs manual or auto locking?

My guess is they did not come as original equipment.

You can tell if it's in 4x4 if you try and drive in 4x4 turn the wheels you'll notice you turning radius is looser and harder to turn.

Also if the the hubs are auto you will have to drive forward to lock them when you engage 4 wheel drive and drive back wards to disengage them when you switch back to 2 wheel drive.

Cheers, Rick.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2008 | 09:32 AM
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The hubs are definetly manual. I've been driving a smaller car for awhile, the steer seems loose period. plus it has 33/12.50 tires, so it is also somewhat difficult to turn. I will try to see if there is any difference between regular and suspected 4wd. Thanks for the reply.

Future mods:
Rebuild and possible build up of 302
small amount of lift (questions when the time comes)
aftermarket wheels
super secret custom tru dual exhaust (haha)
Aftermarket wheels
Shift kit
Possible re gearing (questions when the time comes)
 
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Old Dec 31, 2008 | 10:25 AM
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i would put a manual tcase swap on that list as well. the electric cases tend to fail.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2008 | 10:33 AM
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i have a 95 5.8 EB with push button TC and manual hubs, havnt had any probs out of it yet =], to take it outa 4x4 push the button, the light will go off, back up a lil then unlock the hubs
 
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Old Dec 31, 2008 | 12:04 PM
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If you have manual hubs you don't have to "back up" Just unlock them and be good to go..

Even with the auto hubs I've learned that just going back into 2wd the hubs will unlock themselves without "backing up"
 
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 10:39 AM
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Upon further testing, my 4wd is non functional. I Had to prove to my Dad that it could go thru just as much if not more mud than his 05 f150. It was no very deep, but was nasty. I managed to get in the middle of it before I realized 4wd does not work. I got thru it, but the only way back was thru it again. I made it till my front wheels were on hard ground. Needless to say my Dad had to make his comments as he pulled me out. At least it wasn't a chevy, haha. I'm thinking that it must be an electrical problem. No 4wd lights came on and even the button lights didn't work. I had thought maybe bulb was blown. This seems easier to trouble shoot and potentially easier to fix than a mechanical problem. Have already ruled out fuse, since it also controls other things that work fine. Any thoughts or opinions would be appreciated, even if its not what I wanna hear.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 11:59 AM
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Mine goes into 4hi but I have the same issue with 4lo. I push the button and nothing happens. I'm hoping it's just that the button is bad. I've thought about a manual conversion. Anyone ever done one?
 
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 12:06 PM
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from what I've read, you pretty much have to swap the whole tranfer case. Supposedly there is already a cutout in the floor for the shifter. I would be worried however with all the electronics, if the brain would notice there was no longer a signal from the transfer case. I don't know if it even does that now, all the computer stuff can be a pain to work on.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 01:58 PM
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IIRC the t-case control wiring is part of the body harness and not the engine harness...therefore it would have no way of sending any signals to the ECM.
Many people have swapped to a manual case, i wont buy one with an electric case..that way i dont have to swap a manual in. The parts are all available on any old beater, have at 'er.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 02:04 PM
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Cool. Thanks pud. I may begin to look around, depends on how it goes this weekend, whether or not the problem is figured out. I have run across an 87 for 500 bucks. Been rolled over, but driven home. Drivetrain is the only thing worth anything.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 04:39 PM
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Although I prefur the manual shift, I had a Bronco for ten years with the electric shift and its not that big of a problem. It certainly not worth the trouble to swap. I had the electric shift go out once and changed the motor and it was good till I sold it. I did a lot of hard wheeling with that truck. If you want to check it, just pull off the motor (three bolts) and shift with a vise grip.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 08:30 AM
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Ok guys, I started to pull the motor off, but it felt like it was spring loaded or something. I took apart the motor and manually turned it thru all the gears. I cleaned the brushes and greased the motor gear. I did get it to work. Worked great. drove it around and let the fluids circulate. Then drove to store and back, and it didn't work again. I think that the motor might be wore out and not have enough umph to engage the gears. either that, or maybe there's a spot that doesn't get a good enough connection.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 08:50 AM
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Also, I know the hubs have to be locked to actually use 4wd, but do they have to be locked for the electronics to kick it over?
 
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 11:27 AM
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No. You can engage the t-case and the axles will turn. The hubs being unlocked just won't transfer that power to the wheels.
 
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