There are two micro switches in the T-case that "tell" the 4WD module where the shift actuator is positioned. The actuator is the assembly on the shift motor. If the assembly has slipped on the motor shaft or the micro switches have failed then the 4WD module will not engage the motor simply because it "doesn't know" where everything is lined up. This is a fail-safe to keep the 4WD from arbitrarily engaging if there is something truly misaligned inside the T-case.

However, what typically happens is the motor gets a bad winding or a "dead spot" and if it stops with the dead spot under one of the brushes it won't move. (Starter motors have the same thing happen to them at times). No movement = no shift and no activation of the micro switches so the 4WD module won't respond.

The guys are right about the manual T-case swap. You are best off swapping the entire case if you decide to do it. The front half of the casing for the manually shifted version of the Borg-Warner 1356 T-case is different from the electronic one. The electronic one's are great if you can keep them from eating shift motors. I went to the manual case for two reasons, I was on shift motor number 7, yes that's seven and one of the guys here had a manual one that he had hoped to use in his '89 but BW changed the diameter of the output shaft sometime between '89 and '95 so the manual one from the 95 that he'd found wouldn't accept the rear DS yoke in his '89. (Something to keep in mind if you decide to swap... the change occurred when Ford went to the flange-mount output on the rear driveshaft somewhere around 90-91).

 

push button 4x4 is a joke as far as im concerned. it was and is just another thing they tried to put an electric motor on to make things "easier" for the driver. in my opnion, if ur to lazy to lean down and move a lever, you have no business in a 4x4. my bronco HAD push-button, and it went out. i've replaced every part of the system besides wiring and acomplished nothing. if you want to use it before doing a t-case swap, take the shift motor off (3 bolts) and take it apart. I took the gear out, and i leave it in nuetral with the e-brake on and shift it into 4 low. you can't realy find the detent for 4 hi and if you do, it won't stay, but it will stay in 4 low. put-r-in 4 low and then see if youdad still thinks he's hot stuff! haha

 

Haha. Thanks everyone for all the info. When I did get it in 4wd, I had to test it out and make sure it actually worked. It crawled thru the mud and around the back 40 no problem. coming back thru the mud, I hit the hole I had gotten stuck in. Didn't even slow down. When I went to rinse the mud off, there was only a tiny bit on the running board! I guess my dad had almost gotten stuck the last time he went back there to pick up a deer. I think he was impressed, but tried to hide it. Unforunately, 4wd is out of service again. So much for bragging rights.

 

what happened to it now?

 

Same thing, i can take it apart and turn it by habd and get it in 4wd and 4lo, then put it back together. may or may not work, if it does, then not permanent. I still think there is a dead spot on the motor or that it is wore out and does not have enough oomph to engage it. So a new motor has been put on the to do list. Number 4