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Anybody try one of those new Fram "washable filters". I put one in the Escape, but was wondering what anybody else ethought of them. I know a lot of people have aftermarket CAI systems, as this is a stock replacement, I like to hear from them..I currently have a K+N filter, which has been in for about 65-70,000 miles, and with all the talk about the oil screwing with the MAF, I wonder if it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the K+N with one of these....
I kinda like the Napa Gold filters if not too inconvenient to go way out to one of thier stores. Cheap Wix-grade filters that are trusted to do the job.
I use to use K&N, but I've heard and read a lot of bad PR on them over the last couple of years. They flow great, so well in fact that they let a lot of dirt through. As mentioned, the ford maff doesn't like oil. I started using the AEM dryflow, It filters and flows well and requires no oil. A drop in filter that gets high marks is aimsoil in some of the test that I've read. I still have the stock filter in my 09. I haven't really heard anything on the fram washable filter either way.I think I'll just make my own performance air filter by streching a pair of panty hose across the top of the airbox ha ha.
I use the 25 dollar apc filters from advance auto. The cone looking Honda ones, lightly oil them and away I go. Got one on every vehicle except the f 150 its got a k&n FIPK.
Our school has done numerous dyno tests with the standard air filter to the drop in K&N to the FIPK. Bottom line is you gain about 1/2 to 1 lb*ft of torque with the FIPK at best, and the drop in does nothing. I'm not trying to rain on anyones parade, but I think you are better off spending your money on something else if you want an increase in performance.
You also have to remember that manufactures design an airbox so it will flow well all the way up past WOT. Which is why there are not alot of gains to be had with different air filters. Even try this test. Tape off your TB and poke a few holes in it with a pen. Then start your car and run it at whatever RPM. Then start taping up the holes until the car starts to run poorly. It just shows you that you dont need a 18" cone hanging on the end of your intake to make power.
Our school has done numerous dyno tests with the standard air filter to the drop in K&N to the FIPK. Bottom line is you gain about 1/2 to 1 lb*ft of torque with the FIPK at best, and the drop in does nothing. I'm not trying to rain on anyones parade, but I think you are better off spending your money on something else if you want an increase in performance.
You also have to remember that manufactures design an airbox so it will flow well all the way up past WOT. Which is why there are not alot of gains to be had with different air filters. Even try this test. Tape off your TB and poke a few holes in it with a pen. Then start your car and run it at whatever RPM. Then start taping up the holes until the car starts to run poorly. It just shows you that you dont need a 18" cone hanging on the end of your intake to make power.
No the stock F 150 airboxes are too small once you change the exhaust and tune it. The stock intake whistles like an old sailor swabbin the decks. Whistle=Not enough flow/restriction
the throttle body is 3" diam. the inlet to the air box was only 2.25".
[quote=Peter94;6942123]Our school has done numerous dyno tests with the standard air filter to the drop in K&N to the FIPK. Bottom line is you gain about 1/2 to 1 lb*ft of torque with the FIPK at best, and the drop in does nothing. I'm not trying to rain on anyones parade, but I think you are better off spending your money on something else if you want an increase in performance.
Not trying to find an increase in performance-asked a question about a filter and if anybody has tried it..I have since realized that any performance gains I thought I would get with the K+N are not real world expectations-I DO have a concern about the MAF getting coated with an oil film, and not giving the PCM accurate info...I have added 2 additional holes to my stock airbox, and it DOES seem to help with throttle response, and the engine does not seem to be gasping for air when I want to WOT from the light, as it did when I bought it....
I would not use a Fram filter given a choice. I like AFE washable filters. Cheaper than K&N too. Higher filtering efficiency, lower price, easier cleaning, no fouled MAF, better flow than OE filters. So far I don't see a downside. I have used them to replaced K&Ns, and have been very pleased with the results.
I appreciate all the answers to my post..I am going to look at those AFE washables that Bear River spoke of-and I want to see if I can get some flow data from Fram on their filter...
To re-address your question drb1956. If you are going to go with a performance style filter, make sure it is a dryflow (at least on MAF vehicles). Otherwise it WILL eventually ruin your MAF. I've replaced plenty of them, trust me!
In fact I've even heard talk about a MAF being (this is a little extreme) a wear and tear item, like your supposed to replace them every x amout of miles (I dont remember the number but I thought it was around 120k or so). It may have actually been more along the lines of "to keep MPG up" replace it. I've had plenty of cars that do strange things, and do not set a MAF code, so it would make sense.
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