Went to the junkyard today in hopes to find my Solid state parts and I got them all.. I think I got everything let me know... Well I looked over 4 diesels they had there... Came out of the junkyard only paying $30.00 for 8 beru glowplugs, glow plug controller for 87 and on for IDI and the wiring harness, and a better CDR Valve. Ok now the thing is getting this thing converted over to solid state...So On my truck do I take out hte old GP controller and plug the hole it goes in? I need to bolt this Solid state controller on the back like it was on the original truck?

Is the wiring harness the same as whats on my truck or should I just change out the wires for the GP's?

BTW the girlfriend found this truck for me! What else can I ask for, a girlfriend that loves going to the JY as much as me!

Id like to get this all done by tomorrow can it be done?

Does any rewiring need done since I got the whole wiring harness? Here are some pictures of what I got today...

Also can I buy new ends for it where the GP's plug because they seem a little brittle with the plastic on the outside of it, or will it matter if its there or not.....


Here is a view of everything I got...


Upclose of the GP controller


Any help appreciated...

 

The only problem I see is on the old relay the trigger wire from the ignition is going to be a hot wire. On the newer one the ignition trigger wire has to be a ground wire easy to hook up manual though maybe somebody knows where there is a ground activated by the ignition. If I am wrong about this somebody correct me.

 

I was just going to use the whole harness but the pre solid state is an 8 pin where as the newer solid state are a 12 pin plug in...

 

why can't you use the positive from the old setup on the truck, and use it to trigger a relay to trigger your ground. May sound confusing but, on a regular 4 pin relay, 85 goes to ground for the relay, 86 is from the truck to trigger the GPs, run 30 to ground as well, and hook 87 to your trigger input to the controller.

Somebody want to confirm this for me?

 

Just might work Dave would know. I hadn't ever thought of using a relay for ground.

 

Me thinks it might just do the trick.

 

I got the glow plug controller in the room now. I took off the wiring harness.

Just like in Daves picture cant I just hook up the wires according to what it says?

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...189823&width=0

Hook up the existing WTS too the one on the new part, hook up the GP's to where it shows, and so on and so on. And also change out the ends on the GP wires? or is it more than that?

 

If you are going to change gp's dont change the ends also I dont believe the resistance is right with the old gp's. the white wire in Daves pictures is a ground triggered by the ignitioned your older truck wont have it. Dave if I remember right has changed his over he'll be along and can tell you better than I can.

 

You have everything to swap the harness and everything, which is what I would do.

Look at the wire that is under the 2 of 2008 in your picture.
To the right end of that wire how many positions(wires) in the connector?

You may be splicing a few wires, but nothing major.

 

Were we telling him wrong Dave.

 

Dave that is a 12 pin connector, mine in the truck is only an 8, anyways I found another post that M.L.S.C contributed to saying All I need to do is change the GP ends on my current GP harness. Move some of the wires currently on my currnet relay to the new relay. Here are a few Quotes from it can you confirm its correct? once reading it I really got the idea on how to do it, I just got to get some more thicker wire for the Hot wire so it will make it to the rear of the intake...

Basically you move ALL the wires from one post of the old relay to the corresponding post of the solid-state relay, then power and ground the solid-state controller, and then remove the old relay trigger wires in a manner of your liking. Your stock WTS light will still work, so you can leave the blue wire with the plastic connector on it just hanging there (tis the ground for the 7.3 WTS light, you don't use it), or you can clip it off if you so feel like. If you also want a manual override switch on top of that system, add a wire from the small post with the rubber cap to the switch inside the cab and from there to a good ground. Clear as mud?



I need to find a keyed hot, where should I tapp into?

ITs pretty much a one wire change just with the keyed hot.

What should I do with the existing wires from the Controller? the old controller?

My WTS light will still work right?

I may of messed up as I allready cut the bullet ends off the solid state harness so I am just going to use the older harness...


Hope it actually goes together like I THINK...

 

Logically it should work if you move the three wires from the glow plug terminal of your relay to the glow plug terminal of the new relay.

Battery wire from the old relay to the battery terminal of the new relay.

The ground wire will need extended to reach the metal fender, the tray the old relay sets on is not grounded.

Ignition power, there is a wire in the engine to chassis connector, red with green stripe that is ignition power and probably about the easiest place to get ignition power from.

The black wire on the small terminal of the old relay is a ground connection that runs to the fender.
The purple wire is what triggered the old relay and has power when the old controller wanted to turn the glow plugs on.
Tape that one off so it can not short out

Which glow plugs are you going to use?
Make sure the engine harness to chassis harness connector has no corrosion in it.
If it does, that increased resistance will mess with the timing on the new style controller.

 

Im going to use the Glow plugs with the bullet connectors, there Beru's and all 8 seem to look fairly good better than the wellmans. Anyways I thought the resistance between the spade and bullet type were different and I needed to run the bullet type with the solid state?

Can I just ground the black wire on the new controller just like it was on the other truck?

 

On the other engine the controller was setting on the intake.
So the black wire was under the mounting bolt, which was grounded to the engine.

If you mount the controller/relay where the relay is on the 85, the plate it sets on is not grounded.
So you need to run a ground wire from the mounting bolt to the fender or battery ground.

If you use the ground wire on the relay terminal like the 85 relay was grounded, the relay will close when you turn the key on and stay closed while the key is on.

The old style controller switched the power on and off when the key was on, ground was constant.
The new style controller switches the ground on and off, power is constant when the key is on.

 

I plan on putting it on the back of the intake... Will I need to drill out the holes?