Switching over to solid state
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,808
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
Ok a little change I will be mounting it in place of the original solenoid. I have it mounted allready using self tapping screws I lengthened the ground wire and made sure the ground was clean I wire wheeled it attached it also. Attached the Battery wire and attached the orange wires going to the GP's.
When I was removing the wiring harness I noticed back in the back where the old controller is there is a black wire that runs farther down to the driver side on the head, what is this to? I cut the wire to get the harness out...
What Should I do with the original wires going to the controller? Should I just tuck them out of the way?
Right now I am in the process of changing out the Glow plugs with the bullet type and also re soldering new ends on the harness...
HOPE THIS WORKS RIGHT!!!
When I was removing the wiring harness I noticed back in the back where the old controller is there is a black wire that runs farther down to the driver side on the head, what is this to? I cut the wire to get the harness out...
What Should I do with the original wires going to the controller? Should I just tuck them out of the way?
Right now I am in the process of changing out the Glow plugs with the bullet type and also re soldering new ends on the harness...
HOPE THIS WORKS RIGHT!!!
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
That should be a ground wire.
Tape the plug up so it can not short out, there are a couple of power wires in it.
After you tape it up, I would zip tie it to the harness so it don't bounce around.
Tape the plug up so it can not short out, there are a couple of power wires in it.
After you tape it up, I would zip tie it to the harness so it don't bounce around.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,808
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
I got my truck running!!! Although I am not sure if it is normal but after the WTS goes off from its initial 8 seconds of being solid, the light and the relay will come on and click off and on about 15 times, then everything is fine...Anything wrong with it?
Also got new CDR valve in a lot less smoke...
Also got new CDR valve in a lot less smoke...
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,808
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
Well here is an update on how it started this morning. I say it was about in the mid 20's this morning, and I didn't plug it up. It seemed to start up fine, but it took me two tries to get it going, it usually would fire up on the first try. Would I maybe have a bad GP or maybe a cold solder joint...I'm still glad I got this done!!!
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
My guess is the extra length and the plug in connector being between the controller and the glow plugs is increasing the resistance slightly, which is in turn making the glow cycle shorter.
Another possibility is you do have a dead plug, and the increased resistance is making the controller more sensetive to the toasted plug.
Third option, one or two of the used plugs are out of range on resistance, causing altered glow times.
Another possibility is you do have a dead plug, and the increased resistance is making the controller more sensetive to the toasted plug.
Third option, one or two of the used plugs are out of range on resistance, causing altered glow times.
