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My hood will not open, The release is slacked like it should feel, but the hood has not popped. I have tried pushing and pulling on the hood thinking that maybe the catch just got stuck, but nothing is happening. I tried pulling on the release cable but it does nothing so I don't think that it is snapped. How can I open the hood without the release? Any help will be greatly appreciated!!!
Pushing & pulling?! Make a fist & hammer straight down like you would on a table - HARD & repeatedly if necessary. The latch probably needs de-greasing & fresh lithium grease. Hit the cable ends with the grease, too. Weekly.
Last edited by matt's2.9STX; Dec 26, 2008 at 03:58 PM.
Reason: Forgot the cable
Pull on the release while someone tries to lift the hood!! Had a car that took a whack in the front(slight), and after that hood latch never did work right-tried greasing, and bending to make it work-always gave me fits..
Another thing that may make it hard to close on these trucks is a spring that fails in the latch. It's a pretty simple & easy to fix, but it would be a good idea to remove the whole thing & to make the job easier & may as well give it some serious TLC.
I can see how a the whole bumped latch would drive you nuts DRB. And that 2-person trick is sometimes needed even with the hand hammer method. Also, if the hood gets weak from rust, that whole location thing can land you in the same soup. I'd get hood locks & scrap out the latch if it ever gets bad enough. May as well toss a few useless pounds.
Yeah, it was a real PITA, my daughters car-somebody backed into her in a parking lot(never seen who)-Just about every time I had to go under the hood, it was 2-person job...
You know, it strikes me that automotive hood releases are far overdue for being replaced with something lighter & less trouble-prone, esp when the hoods keep getting flimsier. I wonder if the new little Mustang GT retains inside release latches with the funky aluminum hood & locks. Then again, they may as well make them light enough to be an easily removable hood, as long as it's tough enough to retain shape, paint & resist heat. I think that's getting easier than it sounds, esp if they make the engine bays so tiny, I'd be about ready to lose my lunch in a few years. Examples of small hoods are the smart car, Dodge microcars, Mini Coopers, GMC vans, etc. Only Fords I can think of other than the Pony are cars nobody could get me to buy. I was ticced to see overflow tank accessible through the hood without a key or tools.
Never understood why they didn't make a keyed latch, just like the trunk??The Escort was not too bad to work on-timing belt was time consuming though, as no room for your hands down there..the one Pony I did have was a PITA from day one-bought used for the wife, base model, and it was one thing after another-then the throttle body started acting up, and the dealer wanted 1200$ to fix-traded for a '98 Dodge Neon-new..Good car, still running at 180,000-Chrysler was making them cheaper in Mexico at the end, while Belvidere(IL), was retooling for the Caliber..test drove that-my wife and I both did not like it-bought the Escape....
It sounds like the cable may have streched. On a 4 cylinder, they maybe enough room to go up from under nieth the truck in front of the engine, or pull a wheel and the inner fender liner to gain access to see if you can push the latch over with a screw driver. There's no easy solution I'm afraid. Can the grill be removed without access to the back side? You have to be able to get to the latch to manually unlock it somehow. Once you do get it open, you can remove the latch and get hood pins, or lube it up, but you may need a new cable if it's streched or damaged in someway. Also call the ford garage and ask them for advice.
If it's stretched, see if you can remove the bracket from inside & pull the cable farther than normal. Or release the cable from the handle & pull it with a pliers. You'd have to do that anyway with a new cable.
Take a long screwdriver/rod & from underneath you can reach the latch between the grill & the radiater; push up as I recall. Once opened check behind the battery, & locate the cable. You can pull it up to look at it. Mine rubbed a hole in the plastic housing, it allows the housing to bend instead of pulling the latch. I used a short section of gas line, split it & slid it over the cable & secured it with some small fuel line hose clamps, works like new & a lot cheaper than a new cable.
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