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im starting to look for an ats housing upgrade for my turbo anyone know where to find one?i couldnt find it on the ats website.and also what all is needed to be done to my exhaust to make it work right?what would be easier folding the body seam or body lift to make the new downpipe clear?
I am not sure I would put the body lift just to make it easier to put a downpipe. I put a body lift on my 90 several years ago and it caused a few problems I had to correct. One of the main problems was that I ordered a 2 inch kit and they sent me a 3 inch kit. When I called the company to get it straightened out they said just keep the 3 inch kit. I didn't want the 3 inch kit because I was told that if you go any bigger than a 2 inch, it causes issues with the 5 spd shifter and 4x4 shifter, but I just wanted to get the truck done at the time so I installed it anyway. I had to end up lengthening the shifter out of the tranny by 1 inch and heating and bending the 4x4 shifter to make it work and I am still not really pleased with how they turned out but it worked so it will have to do.
But maybe if you do get a body lift stay at 2 inches or below and you will not have the shifter length problems that I had, or at least that is what I was told.
I would have rather not even had a body lift on my truck but at the time I needed room under the hood for a turbo and plumbing so it was a cheap solution to get more room. If you can do the down pipe by just bending the seem and make it fit ok then I would probably go that route.
I have plenty of room with a 2" lift, I could have done my downpipe with a 1" lift easily.
ATS reworked the website a couple months ago, and the links are still messed up last time I was there.
I sent them an email, which they responded to and said the IDI turbo parts and systems were still offered, and they were working on the links, sorry for any inconvenience it may cause till they get them straight again.
thanks dave!do you know off hand about how much these run and do they come with the down pipe?would it be the same if i made my own down pipe or will the 3/4" make that big of difference in power?i just want to wake my truck up a little and i know it would last longer if it could breath better
So a 2.25" ID pipe has an area of,
3.1415 x (1.125 x 1.125)
3.1415 x 1.265625
A = 3.975960 sq. in.
And 3" ID pipe
3.1415 x (1.5 x 1.5)
3.1415 x 2.25
A = 7.068375 sq. in.
The 3" pipe is 177.77% bigger than the 2.25" pipe.
Plus the stock downpipe is smashed, the ATS is not.
When you work with pipe a lot, you learn a basic rule.
If you add the radius of a pipe to the diameter, you double the pipe capacity.
As an example a 4" pipe + the 2" radius will tell you a 6" pipe will carry twice as much as a 4" pipe can at the same pressure.
No this is not perfect, but it is very close.
When you go to the junk yards, look for trucks without turbo badges.
Also pay attention to the exhaust pipe, if it has a 3" downpipe the rest should also be 3".
The ATS kit that was installed on a NA engine would be more likely to have one than a factory turbo engine did.
If you see turbo badges, you are probably going to see a stock Ford turbo.
appeciate the info dave sometimes i wonder if you have every book on these ever made in a giant bookcase somewhere and know each book word for word.hopefully ill be able to find one because people out here at these yards dont seem to know too much about these trucks
I have taken the 3 inch downpipe and welded the original flange ring on and made a huge difference on 2 guys trucks at work, I know the elbow is better but the downpipe is the most restriction, one guy had a pyro and dropped 200 degrees with the mod and a free flow 3 inch exhaust
1 inch body lift gives tons of room.
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