Oil Nightmare
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 46
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Oil Nightmare
I have been chasing a oil leak for months now, i had put a used good low mileage 7.3 in my truck(when i got the truck the old motor was trash) and have had the oil leak from day one, before i put the motor in i put a new oil pan on, front and rear seal, new oil line o-rings on hpop, new turbo and new turbo o-rings and the o-rings under the pedistal and still have a leak...their is oil in the valley back by the turbo and looks like it leaks down makeing it look like the rear main is leaking, i have read that the pedistal itself might have a crack in it, is it possible and is their and thing else by the turbo that can leak that i missed??? and how can i check for a crack????
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,081
Likes: 1
From: Montana
not sure how to check for cracks.
I put on a new pedistal
http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...ROD&ProdID=237
never had any leaks. it takes one place you can get a leak out of the pic. course I didn't have a leak before so this might not help.
best of luck
I put on a new pedistal
http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...ROD&ProdID=237
never had any leaks. it takes one place you can get a leak out of the pic. course I didn't have a leak before so this might not help.
best of luck
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 46
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I think it is leaking from the EBPV actuator rod or a crack in the pedestal, because oil is pudduling in the back by the turbo and i can't find it leaking anywhere else, can you put new seals on the actuator rod or do you have to buy the whole pedstal new?? If you can put new seals on the actuator rod how hard is it to do?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
You could just delete it and keep your old pedestal. Just wire the valve open and gut and plug the opening.
Gut & Plug instructions
Gut & Plug instructions
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
I may go gut my old pedestal just for fun. I read somewhere that if you do that the oil path through there is opened up between inlet & outlet and you can starve the turbo. Have any of you that gutted it verified that? I have a blank stand from Ron's Turbo Service that doesn't have the cavity where the EBPV actuator goes.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
I haven't heard that Joe. I'm not sure how it would open the path more. I just watched the video again and don't see what difference it would make in terms of interrupting the flow from the supply to return side. Am I missing something?
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
What I mean is that it connects the two paths potentially bypassing the turbo before the oil makes it all the way up to the oil housing. No idea if that's true or not. I may go open mine up and have a look just to settle my curiosity.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
I'm not saying you're wrong, but if what you read is right, someone will need to explain the oil path to me.
If you decide to play with your old one, maybe you can do your own video we can start linking people too, or show them why they shouldn't do it.
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 31
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From: mooresville NC
to find the leak you can add some Fluorescent Dye. just clean the engine really good add the dye after a day or two (depending on how fast it leaks) look the engine over with a UV light. you can get the dye and the light from most auto part stores. just a thought. good luck
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 303
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From: Central Washington State
From the Non-EBV order form
"
Q. If I disconnect the sensor, some say this will throw a code ,so they remove the turbo, cut the actuator rod off, and tap the hole in the pedestal and put a plug in it with the sensor still plugged. Is this "ok" to do?
A. If you simply plug the hole and leave the sensor plugged in, you may cause yourself the loss of a turbo from lack of oil flow. Let me explain. The same feed port that feeds the turbo bearing is feeding the EBV piston. There is one supply port and one return port in the pedestal. When the EBP sensor sends the signal to the pedestal to shut the valve,which is not there in this case, the oil dumps off to the return port in the pedestal with no resistance. This is the same return port as the one for the turbo. The piston separated the two when it is was properly used from the factory. Basically, while the valve is being actuated or attempted to in your case the turbo gets no oil or very little. The turbo bearing is the highest place in the engine for oil to travel and it will follow the path of least resistance. If you remove this piston in the pedestal, you MUST not allow computer control of the valve any longer. You must disconnect the sensor from the pedestal. Yes, you will get a code (not a light) telling you the valve is non-operational, but it's the only way to do it. "
"
Q. If I disconnect the sensor, some say this will throw a code ,so they remove the turbo, cut the actuator rod off, and tap the hole in the pedestal and put a plug in it with the sensor still plugged. Is this "ok" to do?
A. If you simply plug the hole and leave the sensor plugged in, you may cause yourself the loss of a turbo from lack of oil flow. Let me explain. The same feed port that feeds the turbo bearing is feeding the EBV piston. There is one supply port and one return port in the pedestal. When the EBP sensor sends the signal to the pedestal to shut the valve,which is not there in this case, the oil dumps off to the return port in the pedestal with no resistance. This is the same return port as the one for the turbo. The piston separated the two when it is was properly used from the factory. Basically, while the valve is being actuated or attempted to in your case the turbo gets no oil or very little. The turbo bearing is the highest place in the engine for oil to travel and it will follow the path of least resistance. If you remove this piston in the pedestal, you MUST not allow computer control of the valve any longer. You must disconnect the sensor from the pedestal. Yes, you will get a code (not a light) telling you the valve is non-operational, but it's the only way to do it. "
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,162
Likes: 1
From: Vilonia Arkansas
When Scott and I put my WW in we took the valve out of the exhaust then slipped a piece of hose on the actuator rod with rtv on the end towards the pedestal .This was done almost 2yrs ago I have no leaks and no problems,I of course leave the sensor disconnected. If you think that is where your leak is you could try that.
