Router, and Table
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Router, and Table
Seem to be on a power tool buying binge, expect I will be using it occasionally so looking to purchase a good used. See they are either fixed or plunge base, can either be used on a router table. Likely purchase the fixed, see where they can be purchase with both bases but don't believe the limited used justifys the expense. Finally, they come in different collet sizes, considering going with the 3/8" rather than 1/4' it would seem the smaller size collet limits the choice in router bits. Any suggestions appreciated. 
As for the router table, some of the review I have read do not speak too favorably of the low profile alum. tables, described more of a pain in the backside. Receive Rockler email notices and they have their name brand table that looks sturdy and reasonable prices. Any suggestions appreciated.
Thank you!!
As for the router table, some of the review I have read do not speak too favorably of the low profile alum. tables, described more of a pain in the backside. Receive Rockler email notices and they have their name brand table that looks sturdy and reasonable prices. Any suggestions appreciated.
Thank you!!
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Primarily to use for putting finishing touch to deck intend adding once the weather improves. Also expect to start remodeling the kitchen and bathroom coming this summer and thought it would come in handy. Thanks for the info.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
3/8" is an oddball shank size you'll never find here except in industry.
10mm's not uncommon in Europe.
1/2" is the way to go, there's always adapters to 1/4.
My table advice,
Plunge routers with a **** depth adjustment work well in tables because the lock isn't awkwardly up against the bottom of the table, and the adjustment is often smoother.
Just buy yourself a Lexan or phenolic drop-in plate and build your own table with a pivoting fence and a sacrificial surface.
A longer table helps support the stock at ends of the cut. (mine is 17x38 'cuz that's the scrap melamine I had)
I use a "C" style vise-grip to hold the non pivoting end of the fence. (but this means the top has to overhang the frame)
A separate speed control if your router doesn't have one is crucial for big bits.
Even if it does, get a switch/plug combo for the front of the table so you can control it without putting your face in line with the bit.
Sorry if I'm writing a book....
Hope this helps
10mm's not uncommon in Europe.
1/2" is the way to go, there's always adapters to 1/4.
My table advice,
Plunge routers with a **** depth adjustment work well in tables because the lock isn't awkwardly up against the bottom of the table, and the adjustment is often smoother.
Just buy yourself a Lexan or phenolic drop-in plate and build your own table with a pivoting fence and a sacrificial surface.
A longer table helps support the stock at ends of the cut. (mine is 17x38 'cuz that's the scrap melamine I had)
I use a "C" style vise-grip to hold the non pivoting end of the fence. (but this means the top has to overhang the frame)
A separate speed control if your router doesn't have one is crucial for big bits.
Even if it does, get a switch/plug combo for the front of the table so you can control it without putting your face in line with the bit.
Sorry if I'm writing a book....
Hope this helps
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