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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 10:44 AM
  #1  
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Alternator rebuild???

'94 3.0 2wd... Does anyone have any experience rebuilding alternators? My amp light came on this morning, and $130.00 for a rebuilt one is kinda tough to swallow this time of year. Help!

Thanks,

M
 
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 10:50 AM
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change voltage regulator with brushes first... it is time for full alt. rebuild if bearings are bad/noisy....
 
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 10:55 AM
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Try looking for a Auto Elec. shop that rebuilds starters and alt. There is a shop here in Central Oregon that did one for me for about half of the replacement cost.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 12:08 PM
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change voltage regulator with brushes first... it is time for full alt. rebuild if bearings are bad/noisy....
Hey thanks guys! Pablo, I can get voltage regulator for $57.00...is this easy to do? It's raining like crazy today, and today I'll have to do the work outside.
The alternator is not making noise that I can hear. I had to drive it a few minutes ago, and about halfway home the "amp" light went out, and my voltage gauge went back to normal, but when I got close to home, the "amp" light came back on, and the gauge dropped down again.

Thanks,

M
 
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 01:22 PM
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really easy, sometimes it is paper clamp ore pin required to hold brushes till you insstall them..... but there is a small manual in regulator pack describing how to do.

Well inspect connectors... W trminal may be corrozed and alternator is OK but bat.light is on. I have old dashboard in aero with voltage gauge and I can see how my alternator works.

but pay attention on identifing alternator. I saw 5 ore 6 different alternators used with 3.0 V6. All they are of different design and different perfomance.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 03:06 PM
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I recently rebuilt my alternator. Victory Lap rebuild kit is sold in some Parts America/Kragen/Checker Auto stores. I used this brand with my starter and all was well. However, the alternator kit prescribed for my alternator did not come with all the correct pieces, such as the diode pack. I also ran into trouble getting the pulley off the shaft and was unable to replace the front bearing. Luckily, it was only the brushes that were bad and the front bearing was not worn to the point requiring replacement. The rebuild kit was around $40 so all in all, not a bad trade off.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 03:30 PM
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diode pack failures are rare. when one diode is bad you have pulsating voltage, short diode draines battery......

We have 550 semis fleet here and I can tell that ~ 60% of alternators faults - brushes, 10% - voltage regulators, 5%- coils of rotor and stator, 5%- bad bearings, 5% - diodes. Our parts manager did this analisis. But bad diodes and coils are caused with bad batteries ore wiring, blown batteries, bad relays..... ouh....
 
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 03:37 PM
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check the battery cable clamps and ground cable block connection first.

intermittent in alternator is usually the brushes worn out and not making reliable connection to split rings. get some fine crocus cloth to burnish copper slip rings also and check for uneven or excessive wear. slip rings do wear out.
the 3G alternator uses an enclosed brush assembly held in by screws. easy to replace. $10 at discount auto parts stores, $20 at the chain rip off joints, $30 at FoMoCo Jet Plane Leasing Corp.

jump starting or 100 amp boost charging are what kill alternators this time of year. never start a rig with a high current charger attached.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 03:55 PM
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first of all unscrew 2 small bolts holding voltage regulator and brushes.... check rotor resistance and inspect contact rings. Usually 30-120 ohm, depending on alternator design.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 06:49 PM
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I have a charger with 2 amp and 10 amp modes; the 10 amp mode is also labeled as "Start", for assisting engine starting. I normally use the 2 amp mode for slow charging over night, but I've used the start assistt before, which worked fine. I don't think it will kick out much more than 10 amps, so I think it's safe. (Too much in this case may be just that.)

But be aware, if you have a totally dead battery that has one or more dead cells in it, it can kill your alternator. It's best to try to charge those up first with a charger. If they can charge up, then start up the engine. Otherwise, you should consider replacing the battery first.

Also, alternators should only use slip rings, not split rings (slip of the key strokes?).
 
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 08:58 PM
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Check ebay if you have time.....
 
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 03:22 AM
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sle or xlt,

as my speeling beee teecher in graadi scool usid toe sai. e git et wrecht hilf thi teme

onle swippid slipped op omse en mi pust
 
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 04:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 96_4wdr
sle or xlt,

as my speeling beee teecher in graadi scool usid toe sai. e git et wrecht hilf thi teme

onle swippid slipped op omse en mi pust
 
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 09:33 PM
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Merry Christmas!

Thanks for the help guys!. My alternator was the original from the factory.
250.000 miles is pretty good for an alternator...lol. I pulled the voltage regulator, the brushes were worn all the way to the end. With the voltage regulator off, I could hear the bearings grinding as I spun it, so I reassembled it and had it tested; it failed all tests. So, I replaced for $150.00. Lots of fun, all is well, and thanks again! You guys ROCK!

M
 
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Old Jan 24, 2010 | 01:27 PM
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My alternator has 136K on it and on moist days the bearings are screaming, but if I spray a quick shot of silicone spray into the pulley as the engine is running the screaming stops for about 5 seconds, and then slowly it comes back to a scream. I have no knowledge of alternators so do I need a rebuild or is there a bearing in the pulley I can replace?
 
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