throwing 2 u-joints in a week!
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2007
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throwing 2 u-joints in a week!
ok, I threw a u-joint last week in my 99 F250 supercab long bed. Took out the driveshaft, threw it in 4X4 hi and drove home. put a new joint in (differential joint) and went on my way. 3 days later i throw the SAME one. when i get off the road i check everything out and notice that on the yoke where you bolt the u-joint to there is only one "tab". this is kind of hard to explain but I am talking about the tabs on the yoke that keep the caps of the joint from sliding outward. so whats happening is once i get going fast enough the cap of the joint works its way outward and eventually flys out. Now the yoke looks clean, it almost looks like there was never a tab there to begin with, the metal is very smooth. i don't know how this could happen, how would a tab just get broken off like that? can anyone comment on if their truck has tabs on both sides or not...
I am guessing i am going to need to buy a new yoke, i have it jimmy rigged now and am really uncomfortable driving it. changing u-joints in freezing weather sucks! really dont feel like doing it a third time!
all help is appreciated!
I am guessing i am going to need to buy a new yoke, i have it jimmy rigged now and am really uncomfortable driving it. changing u-joints in freezing weather sucks! really dont feel like doing it a third time!
all help is appreciated!
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
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From: Central Florida
I haven't replaced any on my superduty, but 79 was bad about throwing ujoints. It had "pressed" in joints, which I beat into place and secured with the clips. However, the yoke was out of spec, basically more distance at the open end than it should have had. This caused most of my troubles. I would start with measuring up the yoke, you will need a good caliper to do this, a tape measure isn't quite good enough.
If it's a capped style yoke, then it's possible the cap is on backwards and the lip is too inward.
If it's a capped style yoke, then it's possible the cap is on backwards and the lip is too inward.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: No.Va.
Sounds like you need a new yoke.
You definately need a tab on each "ear" of the yoke,or the caps will come out just as you have described.
Possible the strap came loose on the one side and wore the tab off?
BTW - u joints suck in the summer time as well
edit: did the replacement joint come w/ "c" clips?
You definately need a tab on each "ear" of the yoke,or the caps will come out just as you have described.
Possible the strap came loose on the one side and wore the tab off?
BTW - u joints suck in the summer time as well
edit: did the replacement joint come w/ "c" clips?
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2007
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no, the joint did not come with the C clips. the first time it happened the clip was so messed up i had to use a c clip from the front driveshaft to get home and later got new ones. the second time it happened i caught it quick and was able to throw it in neutral before it tore anything up.
so where can i get a new yoke? and is it easy to change. I didn't have trouble changing the u-joints, just two sockets and a hammer and they come right out...but really want this fixed because crawling under the truck on the side of the highway at 18 degrees on the way to work is NOT fun.
I have a haynes manual but its all at home and i am just trying to get an idea of what i will be getting into once i get home. thanks again
so where can i get a new yoke? and is it easy to change. I didn't have trouble changing the u-joints, just two sockets and a hammer and they come right out...but really want this fixed because crawling under the truck on the side of the highway at 18 degrees on the way to work is NOT fun.
I have a haynes manual but its all at home and i am just trying to get an idea of what i will be getting into once i get home. thanks again
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Richmond BC
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Mass
never heard of this one before, i just did three differant u joints in my driveshafts in the past three months and know exactly what your talking about and can't imagine how that "tab" that holds in two of the caps could break off. sounds like something real freakish!
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Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: No.Va.
no, the joint did not come with the C clips. the first time it happened the clip was so messed up i had to use a c clip from the front driveshaft to get home and later got new ones. the second time it happened i caught it quick and was able to throw it in neutral before it tore anything up.
so where can i get a new yoke? and is it easy to change. I didn't have trouble changing the u-joints, just two sockets and a hammer and they come right out...but really want this fixed because crawling under the truck on the side of the highway at 18 degrees on the way to work is NOT fun.
I have a haynes manual but its all at home and i am just trying to get an idea of what i will be getting into once i get home. thanks again
so where can i get a new yoke? and is it easy to change. I didn't have trouble changing the u-joints, just two sockets and a hammer and they come right out...but really want this fixed because crawling under the truck on the side of the highway at 18 degrees on the way to work is NOT fun.
I have a haynes manual but its all at home and i am just trying to get an idea of what i will be getting into once i get home. thanks again
Probably going to be a dealer item. (that they have to order)
Could also check out a salvage yard.
Yoke is easy to replace.
Remove driveshaft, remove pinion nut. (nut in center of yoke).
Remove yoke. (sometimes tapping on the back side will help it slide off)
Install new yoke. (torque to specs.)
Reinstall drive shaft.
Air tools will make removing yoke easier,but not required.
Also good idea to replace pinion seal at this time.
Remove w/ prybar,tap new one in place.
Hope this helps / good luck
BTW - if the yoke has retaining tabs, do not use the c-clips on the caps of the u-joint that go into the yoke. U-joints fit different applications,you may get c-clips that you will not use.
Take a good look at the retaining straps/hrdw. as well.(cheap enough to replace w/ the new yoke)
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2007
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12ozd: Thank you! sounds like it will be an easy fix. I am glad to hear it.
one last question: do you think i would be able to put a different style yoke on it? I have always thought it looks like a weak design. would like to put a yoke on that is designed more like the front side of the driveshaft that bolts up to the t-case. just to eliminate the c-clamp set-up. im not sure if anyone is familiar but i worked on a 2000 mustang GT that had the bolt style yoke. Just seems a lot more sturdy and since i will be replacing it anyway i dont think it would be too difficult.
one last question: do you think i would be able to put a different style yoke on it? I have always thought it looks like a weak design. would like to put a yoke on that is designed more like the front side of the driveshaft that bolts up to the t-case. just to eliminate the c-clamp set-up. im not sure if anyone is familiar but i worked on a 2000 mustang GT that had the bolt style yoke. Just seems a lot more sturdy and since i will be replacing it anyway i dont think it would be too difficult.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: No.Va.
If you got the $,anything is possible
I don't know of any direct swaps to convert your truck.
(but I'm sure somebody has done it)
Any driveline shop should be able to make what you want.
I wouldn't discount the set up you have now.
Very reliable for many trucks for many years.Something goofy happened to yours to have it fall out.Not common at all.
IMHO I would replace the yoke,u-joints,straps and keep getting up !!
Be sure that when you install the rear joint in the yoke,that it is fully seated,you should be able to see the tabs on the outside of the cap.
One more thing to check.....If the driveshaft fell out,it is possible that it got bent or the yoke on the driveshaft can get bent as well.
Be worth taking a good look at.
I don't know of any direct swaps to convert your truck.
(but I'm sure somebody has done it)
Any driveline shop should be able to make what you want.
I wouldn't discount the set up you have now.
Very reliable for many trucks for many years.Something goofy happened to yours to have it fall out.Not common at all.
IMHO I would replace the yoke,u-joints,straps and keep getting up !!
Be sure that when you install the rear joint in the yoke,that it is fully seated,you should be able to see the tabs on the outside of the cap.
One more thing to check.....If the driveshaft fell out,it is possible that it got bent or the yoke on the driveshaft can get bent as well.
Be worth taking a good look at.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,424
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From: BC Canada
I am thinking with your two incidents with blown joints, you will want to take your shaft and new yoke to a driveline shop and have them assemble, balance and make sure its not bent before installing. Also, good idea above to do the pinion seal and both u-joints and straps all at the same time so you dont have to go back under in a bit. Once one goes, likely the other isnt far behind. As asked above, is this truck lifted at all? This could contribute to the original u-joint failures, also, I wonder if that original yoke is the right one for the truck?
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2007
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Redford: Truck has a 2 1/2" levelling kit. BUT there is a 4" block with a 2" block stacked on that. I know that is horrible and i will change that but i dont think that has anything to do with the problem. I am not sure about the axle angle. I would guess it is stock. but it doesn't look like a bad angle, looks pretty straight.
mhoefer: I am pretty sure the yoke is the stock/correct one. i know the history pretty well as my uncle was the second owner and the truck used to be a city vehicle. only thing i am unsure about is why there is a 4" and a 2" block. the uncle said he put in the 2" block because it came with the pro comp kit.
I am definitely going to get it balanced out at a driveline shop because i did notice a small dent in the shaft.
mhoefer: I am pretty sure the yoke is the stock/correct one. i know the history pretty well as my uncle was the second owner and the truck used to be a city vehicle. only thing i am unsure about is why there is a 4" and a 2" block. the uncle said he put in the 2" block because it came with the pro comp kit.
I am definitely going to get it balanced out at a driveline shop because i did notice a small dent in the shaft.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 23,174
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From: Stephensville WI
SO, basically you've lifted the rear 4 inches. (I won't comment on the stacked blocks).
The reason I asked, I'm wondering if you've altered the drive shaft angle enough that you're wearing out the U-joints prematurely.
The reason I asked, I'm wondering if you've altered the drive shaft angle enough that you're wearing out the U-joints prematurely.