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Stuck in Mexico Again, Help

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Old Dec 19, 2008 | 11:36 PM
  #16  
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LCAM-01XA
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I have the fan locked on my truck cause if I don't she'll try to overheat on me even while idling in my driveway at 20F outside, I have two braces (thin flat steel plates) running from water pump bolts to the blades of the fan, but I used a Dremel to grind the holes through the blades. The chisel thing, that could work, I guess, cause the clutch has aluminum housing, but I'm not sure if tis a good idea to be hammering on the end of the water pump shaft. Also, taking the thermostat off requires taking the fuel filter tower off, kinda labor-intensive but can be done with a bunch of sockets and wrenches.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2008 | 11:36 PM
  #17  
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From: Campbell River, B.C.
Originally Posted by RCrawler
Bad idea. If you remove the T-stat, it will not allow the coolant to remain in the engine long enough to transfer the heat. In turn, the coolant temp may be lower, but the engine itself stays hot.

Jason
This is the first time I ever heard anything like this. No offence, but my personal experience goes against that. I ran a 2.3 turbodiesel without a stat for a few miles and it ran so cool that it actually smoked from incomplete fuel burn.

Never tried it on a 6.9 though.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2008 | 11:43 PM
  #18  
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From: Faibanks Ak.
MLSC I'm suprized yours even warms up to operating temp in cooler weather my fan never comes on on flat ground even pulling a load when outside temps are cool.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2008 | 11:45 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by David85
This is the first time I ever heard anything like this. No offence, but my personal experience goes against that. I ran a 2.3 turbodiesel without a stat for a few miles and it ran so cool that it actually smoked from incomplete fuel burn.

Never tried it on a 6.9 though.
What do you think the thermostat is used for then?
I think everybody has removed the thermostat in an emergency and it will run cool (according to the gauge), but it is not sufficiently removing the heat from the engine.

Jason
 
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Old Dec 19, 2008 | 11:52 PM
  #20  
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From: Mexico
Originally Posted by M.L.S.C.
I have the fan locked on my truck cause if I don't she'll try to overheat on me even while idling in my driveway at 20F outside, I have two braces (thin flat steel plates) running from water pump bolts to the blades of the fan, but I used a Dremel to grind the holes through the blades. The chisel thing, that could work, I guess, cause the clutch has aluminum housing, but I'm not sure if tis a good idea to be hammering on the end of the water pump shaft. Also, taking the thermostat off requires taking the fuel filter tower off, kinda labor-intensive but can be done with a bunch of sockets and wrenches.
I am having trouble pictureing this. If you have these plates connected to the water pump bolts than how does the fan turn.

I am also not sure if removing the t-stat is the correct thing to do. I would think that it needs to close so the coolant will get a chance to cool down. No offense rupejosh.

I really appreciate all the quick input I am getting. This is a great forum with great members. Thanks
 
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 12:02 AM
  #21  
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From: Faibanks Ak.
Thermostats serve a dualpurpose keeping the motor warm enough to operate and cool enough if he was getting the unburned fuel smoke the engine was obliviously too cool not just the water. It was probably in cool weather because I have seen several motors run hotter without a thermostat than with one.
There is only 2 bolts on the alt 2 bolts on the vacuum pump 2 bolts on the fuel filter housing these need a wrench as backup and 3 bolts that hold the alt and fuel filter bracket and 2 bolts on the thermostat housing so you don't need a lot of tools to change the thermostat. it is fairly easy I changed mine last week but because it was running too cool to burn the fuel properly.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 12:11 AM
  #22  
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From: Mexico
I thought I was getting the black smoke from running to hot. The temp gauge was at 220.
After 2 Red Bulls, not eating, 12 hours driving on Mexican roads and a ton of stress, I need to close my eyes for a couple of hours.

thanks everyone and I will check up on this in a couple of hours.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 12:11 AM
  #23  
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It warms up just fine. My thermostat is good, so it does what tis supposed to. That, and I got a grille blanket, and good 2/3 of my radiator's front surfaces is blocked off too
 
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 12:24 AM
  #24  
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From: Faibanks Ak.
Ok now I see how it warms up My detroit a couple years ago the fan switch messed up even pulling a load It would not warm up at -20 even with the insulated winterfront zipped completly up.
Last week the thermostat messed up in my 6.9 it would not even heat enough for the heater at idle omly 130 on the highway until I put cardboard in front of the radiator then 150 on the highway.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 12:28 AM
  #25  
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double post
 
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 12:39 AM
  #26  
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From: Campbell River, B.C.
Originally Posted by RCrawler
What do you think the thermostat is used for then?
I think everybody has removed the thermostat in an emergency and it will run cool (according to the gauge), but it is not sufficiently removing the heat from the engine.

Jason
I verified the engine temp with an IR thermometer and it was indeed overcooling, not overheating. I don't understand how more coolant flow at lower temp results in less heat transfer.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 12:53 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by cornking
I am having trouble pictureing this. If you have these plates connected to the water pump bolts than how does the fan turn.
This is how I put them:

Our trucks ise 7-blade fans so no two blades are perfectly against each other, but after you turn your fan a few times you will notice that because one of the distance between two of the 7 blades is wider than between the others it is possible to have the braces pretty parallel to each other even tho the blades will be a bit off. One end of the brace goes to a water pump bolt, the other end goes to the fan blade, you'll need to drill holes on the blades for that - I used a dremel tool cause I did it ith the fan still on the engine, it's a bit hard but tis definitely doable. This is a front view by the way, if you could see through the radiator that's what you'll see in my truck - this way the braces work in compression during startup and revvup (not much force then), but in tension upon shutoff (lotsa more force from the fan inertia), use grade-8 bolts and not too thin braces (not sheetmetal, but not 1/4" either) and it works good.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 12:53 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by David85
I don't understand how more coolant flow at lower temp results in less heat transfer.
You have a pot of water on the stove with the heat turned on. If you leave it on, eventually it will boil. Correct? If you had a valve with a 1 inch outlet at the bottom of the pot and let water drain out of it, meanwhile refilling it with tap water at the same rate it is draining. Will it boil as fast as leaving it alone? Or at all? What if you reduced the outlet to 1/8"?

Caterpillar calls them regulators, which is a good definition of what they do. Allows the engine to warm up to temperature, and allows it to stay cool at a predetermined temperature.

Jason
 
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 12:55 AM
  #29  
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all my buddies run their 4x4 play trucks with no thermostat and they beat the crap out of them and rarely have motor issues.if that was the case they would all be blowing head gaskets right?
 
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 01:12 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by rupejosh
all my buddies run their 4x4 play trucks with no thermostat and they beat the crap out of them and rarely have motor issues.if that was the case they would all be blowing head gaskets right?
Not necessarily. It doesn't severely overheat the engine. But it does make it run hot enough to cause damage. I've put a large flat washer in place of my thermostat to slow the coolant flow enough to prevent the engine from running hot.

Jason
 
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