Brake Problem I've Never Read About Here
Thread Starter
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Gone, but not forgotten
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 5,026
Likes: 2
From: Charlotte-Fairbanks-Bflo
DOT brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it sucks any and all moisture it can out of any air it can get to (reservoir mostly). Many mechanics, including Kwik, recommend flushing your brake fluid annually.
The brake lines require DOT3 brake fluid. Power assist (hydro boost) requires tranny fluid.
The brake lines require DOT3 brake fluid. Power assist (hydro boost) requires tranny fluid.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Yeah, bleed the brake a minimum of every other year, regardless of mileage.
I also recommend using DOT4 it is designed for disk brakes.
I think DOT 3 will work ok but the boiling point is lower than 4 and disk brakes make more heat than drum.
I just get DOT 4 for everything, that way I know that it will meet the standard.
I also recommend using DOT4 it is designed for disk brakes.
I think DOT 3 will work ok but the boiling point is lower than 4 and disk brakes make more heat than drum.
I just get DOT 4 for everything, that way I know that it will meet the standard.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 314
Likes: 0
From: Southern Colorado
Also, I had a problem with the pistons on one of my trucks. It seems the pistons in the calibers had a large supply of rust on them, and each time I stepped on the brakes, they wern't retracting.
Kept me wondering what in the heck happened to my mpg, why it was taking so much go juice to get started, and ended up having to buy new rotors, & calibers.
Just a thought,
Richard
Kept me wondering what in the heck happened to my mpg, why it was taking so much go juice to get started, and ended up having to buy new rotors, & calibers.
Just a thought,
Richard
Thread Starter
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Gone, but not forgotten
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 5,026
Likes: 2
From: Charlotte-Fairbanks-Bflo
Also, I had a problem with the pistons on one of my trucks. It seems the pistons in the calibers had a large supply of rust on them, and each time I stepped on the brakes, they wern't retracting.
Kept me wondering what in the heck happened to my mpg, why it was taking so much go juice to get started, and ended up having to buy new rotors, & calibers.
Just a thought,
Richard
Kept me wondering what in the heck happened to my mpg, why it was taking so much go juice to get started, and ended up having to buy new rotors, & calibers.
Just a thought,
Richard
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 857
Likes: 0
I had a problem like this in an E250 van I used to own. There was a problem with the cups in the caliper assemblies that were keeping them from retracting. As heat built up in the pads and was transferred to the calipers, the brake fluid got hot and vaporized thereby pressurizing the brake system and setting the brakes up even harder. New calipers, rotors and pads fixed the problem. I also replaced the flexible hoses since they were subject to the heat.
I've also seen this happen when the flex hoses go bad and the interior liner flakes away and creates a restriction in the hose. It sort of acts like a check valve in that foot pressure will force fluid around the restriction but there isn't enough back pressure to fully release the calipers.
Either way I think I'd do calipers, rotors, pads and hoses.
I've also seen this happen when the flex hoses go bad and the interior liner flakes away and creates a restriction in the hose. It sort of acts like a check valve in that foot pressure will force fluid around the restriction but there isn't enough back pressure to fully release the calipers.
Either way I think I'd do calipers, rotors, pads and hoses.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,104
Likes: 5
From: West Tx
Have you checked the hydroboost unit itself? When they go bad they can apply the brakes for you at random... kinda weird when the truck slows itself down and the brakes weren't applied...
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Thread Starter
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Gone, but not forgotten
Joined: Oct 2005
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Likes: 2
From: Charlotte-Fairbanks-Bflo
Only reason I've not updated y'all is because I can't get hold of the boy. If he's got it fixed and has not reported to me he is going to have to become a member to get anymore help.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2006
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Maybe the master cylider???
Thats the only thing I can think of that would cause the pressure to stay in the lines.
Has he done anything with the brakes recently? or did it just start happending all of a sudden?
I've read about when you collapse the pistons back inside the caliper you can damage some sorta valve in the master that would let the pressure release.
Does the brake fluid look dirty?
Also...are you saying the pedal is HARD to push down about after an hour of driving? Might even be a hyrdoboost issue.
Aff....slow typer
Thats the only thing I can think of that would cause the pressure to stay in the lines.
Has he done anything with the brakes recently? or did it just start happending all of a sudden?
I've read about when you collapse the pistons back inside the caliper you can damage some sorta valve in the master that would let the pressure release.
Does the brake fluid look dirty?
Also...are you saying the pedal is HARD to push down about after an hour of driving? Might even be a hyrdoboost issue.
Aff....slow typer