I have seen some really nice aftermarket sway bars on street rods and was wondering if anyone has seen them on F100s. What I am looking for is something like the TCI setup that has a single straight torsion bar that is splined on both ends. There is an arm that mounts on each spline the other end of which goes down to the rearend. I was thinking that this torsion bar could pass through each frame rail, be supported by bearings instead of bushings, and have the arms mounted on the outside of the frame rail where they would be out of the way and have the most mechanical advantage. I'd call TCI but they are always so tough to get someone on the phone who knows what they're talking about...I think that sharp guys on on the road most of the time at shows.

 

look for a shop in your area that specializes in dirt track racing parts or cars. they use that same type of setup on the dirt track cars all the time.

they should be able to get you something.

rgds
Mike

 

Thanks Mike, I don't know much about dirt track cars but I am sure there are some shops in the area. Lots of desert buggies and Baja trucks around here so I should be able to dig something up...thanks for the tip.

 

I think Sacramento Vintage or another supplier had a sway bar for a stock rear suspension in one of their catalogs. Could have been cpp or no limit.

 

Was just looking at Mid-Fifties catalog this afternoon, they have a sway bar kit for the rear of the f-100's.

Merry Christmas to all!!!!

Bob G

 

Charlie:
We refer to that type bar as a "NASCAR" bar since they were first popularized by that racing series. The splined ends were useful to the roundy-rounders since they could adjust the side to side preload and transfer characteristics for the track configuration by offsetting the arms. That's unimportant for street use where you turn left and right, but it does make it easier to manufacture in any length and stiffness can be changed by just changing the bar itself. As said they are still in popular use in racing and you can order them from racing chassis parts suppliers. You will need to know the length you need and the arm length. I'd get guidance from the manufacturer on bar size since it will vary with vehicle weight, useage, front bar size and arm length. a longer bar with the arms closer to the wheels and longer arms will act "softer" than a short bar with short arms. Don't go too big unless you are also using a heavy front bar since the stiffer the rear bar is in relationship to the front bar, the more tail happy (loose or oversteer in racing terms) the vehicle will become. Typically the front bar is significantly stiffer/larger than the rear bar. DON'T use a rear bar unless you are also using a front bar, especially on a pickup, unless you like seeing where you came from rather than where you are going.
Also DON'T solid mount the bar to the chassis with bearings or solid bushings! There is no need for bearings, the rotation is very slow and short, and solid mounting does not allow for the small missalignments that happen while the bar is functioning which would bind up the bar and/or tear the mounts apart in short order. Compliant rubber or urethane bushings that fit the bar diameter and are lubricated with the proper compatable grease is all that are needed.
Also adjust the arms on the splines so they are in the same plane and link length so they are parallel to the ground at rest on the suspension.

 

Thanks AX, I have a Volare IFS on the truck which I have just rebuilt and added a PST performance swaybar. Since the front end is now dialed in I am in need of some help in the rear. The fuel tank fills up the space behind the rear end so I didn't want to clutter up the area in front of it with sway bar...and there's something about the "muffler clamp" mounts for most aftermarket sway bars that turns me off on them. TCI uses a cross tube that is welded to the frame rails through which the torsion bar passes...real clean setup, in fact it would give me a good place to mount tailpipe hangers and run hydraulic lines. The tube part is easy, the torsion bar will be more of a challenge. I am running down some local vendors now and will check in with them early next week.

 

A cross frame tube mount might be pretty clean looking, but I'm not too sure how you might secure the bushings in the ends. The U mounts used to clamp the bushings to the frame are plenty strong, I have never heard of a failure, but destroyed chassis mounts, especially with a heavy bar are a fairly regular occurance in AX. I destroyed the front frame mounts on my 99 Miata after I changed the bar to an 1 1/4" tubular. It's so common on Miatas that there is a special rule in our stock class rules that allow the front OEM chassis mounts to be replaced with heavier aftermarket ones just for them.
Most of the aftermarket rear bar kits I've seen mount the bar on the rear axle with the links going to the frame (at the crossmember?). Much stronger that way, otherwise you would need to box and reinforce the frame where the bar mounts to it.