Truck Won't Start
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 62
Likes: 1
From: Clackamas, Oregon
Truck Won't Start
2001 F150 5.4L
Truck won’t start the motor cranks over but it does not start. I checked the pressure on the Schrader valve and it had no pressure when I pressed the release valve on the fuel rail. I also checked inertia switch with an ohmmeter and it had continuity between the two contact tabs. I tried smacking the tank with a rubber hammer and tried holding the shift leaver in park while trying to start and had no luck.
Truck won’t start the motor cranks over but it does not start. I checked the pressure on the Schrader valve and it had no pressure when I pressed the release valve on the fuel rail. I also checked inertia switch with an ohmmeter and it had continuity between the two contact tabs. I tried smacking the tank with a rubber hammer and tried holding the shift leaver in park while trying to start and had no luck.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,145
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From: Hernando Ms
Looks like you have no fuel pump...Check the circuit,and be sure that all fuses/relays are in order.After verifying that,look in the FSM,and find the fuel pump B+ lead(wire) locate it,and check for voltage with the ignition switch on..if its there,youve likely got a pump thats "gone south" if theres no B+ at that point(in reference to ground) somethings open between the feed line,and pump.....
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,762
Likes: 1,079
From: St Louis
Check to fast-flashing THEFT light first. If solid for three seconds (valid PATS proveout), then check fuse F10 under the hood and the fuel pump relay. Failure of either will cause no power to the fuel pump circuit as checked by Wilber15's suggestion.
Steve
Steve
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 62
Likes: 1
From: Clackamas, Oregon
I checked the inertia switch on both sides and it had 11.8 volts on both ends but the voltage only holds for about 1.5 seconds. I tried to siphon some gas out today but I could not get the hose down in the tank.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,762
Likes: 1,079
From: St Louis
The 1-2 seconds is the normal pre-start priming cycle.
Steve
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Joined: Nov 2004
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got the same problem WE NEED A PUMP.http://images.ford-trucks.com/forums/images/smil
hi,i am posting this from my post problem because it may help us both i tried start the truck and nothing,i replaced the fuel pump solenoid and no help, removed the solenoid , turn ign key checked for voltage a solenoid pin 65 and 30 got 12 v. at both pins, checked pin 60 to innertia kill switch at pass side panel got continuity, check for volts at innertia kill switch with the ign key on got 12 v for 1 to 2 sec time then drops to nothing never heard the pump humming, took a continuity reading from the innertiakill switch red wire to grnd got very little resistance and good continuity, used a jumper cable
from battery positive to red wire on innertia kill switch(disconnected) and no pump noise or fuel pressure reading at the fuel rails, i think i got a death pump.
more bad news.............the tank is full of fuel.
good news may not rain for a few days.
is it easier to drop the tank or remove the bed
is it normal for the pump electrical supply to turn it self off after 2 seconds of operation?
from battery positive to red wire on innertia kill switch(disconnected) and no pump noise or fuel pressure reading at the fuel rails, i think i got a death pump.
more bad news.............the tank is full of fuel.
good news may not rain for a few days.
is it easier to drop the tank or remove the bed
is it normal for the pump electrical supply to turn it self off after 2 seconds of operation?
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Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 62
Likes: 1
From: Clackamas, Oregon
Update:
The snow melted so I finely dropped the fuel tank which was full. Two motorcycle tie down strapped across the bottom of the frame under the front and back of the tank with a floor jack in the center worked great to lower the tank. I replaced the whole fuel pump assembly. The truck had a bad misfire after I replaced the fuel pump. I’m thinking what did I do wrong? I’ve replace two coils in my truck so I know what a bad COP fills like. The last time it throw a code it was a misfire on the number 6 COP so I pulled it out and the coil had condensation on it so I dried it off and I have been using that same coil for about two years now.
I tried driving around to get the truck to throw a code but had no luck. The truck shook so bad in OD at about 1100rpm that the gas cap kept popping off this happen three different cycles. After doing a search the only thing that can cause the cap to pop off was a bad gas cap or a bad fuel tank sensor. I tried my original non locking gas cap with I kept when I replace it with a locking cap and had no luck so I’m think I have to drop the tank again. I‘m starting to second guess myself I know it has to be a COP so I pulled a new one out of the glove box, YES I carry a backup COP. I started swapping my backup COP with the number 6 COP then 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and then 8 I’ll save the number 7 for last. BINGO I had a bad number 8 coil the truck runs great now. So I guess a bad COP can also shake your gas cap off. Now for my new problem I’m down one backup COP.
The snow melted so I finely dropped the fuel tank which was full. Two motorcycle tie down strapped across the bottom of the frame under the front and back of the tank with a floor jack in the center worked great to lower the tank. I replaced the whole fuel pump assembly. The truck had a bad misfire after I replaced the fuel pump. I’m thinking what did I do wrong? I’ve replace two coils in my truck so I know what a bad COP fills like. The last time it throw a code it was a misfire on the number 6 COP so I pulled it out and the coil had condensation on it so I dried it off and I have been using that same coil for about two years now.
I tried driving around to get the truck to throw a code but had no luck. The truck shook so bad in OD at about 1100rpm that the gas cap kept popping off this happen three different cycles. After doing a search the only thing that can cause the cap to pop off was a bad gas cap or a bad fuel tank sensor. I tried my original non locking gas cap with I kept when I replace it with a locking cap and had no luck so I’m think I have to drop the tank again. I‘m starting to second guess myself I know it has to be a COP so I pulled a new one out of the glove box, YES I carry a backup COP. I started swapping my backup COP with the number 6 COP then 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and then 8 I’ll save the number 7 for last. BINGO I had a bad number 8 coil the truck runs great now. So I guess a bad COP can also shake your gas cap off. Now for my new problem I’m down one backup COP.