Never thought about that. Could use the switched wire as the ground on the toggle.

 

Maybe this will help.
I forgot to include that you need to remove the factory wire from the upper right small terminal and then connect the wire to the push button switch. Wrap any factory wires that you have removed from the GPR with electrical tape and secure.


LINK TO THE FULL SIZED IMAGE

 

Dan, the link to the full size pic stated "Forbidden".

So the blue at 2:00 goes to the momentary switch, where from on the other side of the momentary, ground?

 

NM, saw the ground answer Dan....
Also, click on the pic, not the link.

 

Webshots must have changed thier rules.
The link doesn't work for me either. But, like you said, click on the picture and it will take you there. From there, click on the little "+" sign at the bottom of the picture and you will get the full size picture.

 

Worked for me last night

 

Thanks Dan & everyone else for the info. I never had too worry to much about cold starts living in SW Oklahoma, but now that we will be moving to South Dakota I need to be prepared

......and need to buy a 4WD.

 

Thanks a bunch. I am going to try to run it through a toggle off the computer. Will let you know how it goes.

 

I would NOT run it to a "on/off" toggle. Way too much chance on it getting left or bumped into the on position. Use a momentary switch. Either push or toggle. Lighted toggles are not real easy to spot in bright daylight.

Another thought is to wire it for either PCM or manual activation. Don't disconnect anything, just run a wire from the blue (1'oclock) thru a momentary switch to ground. If you want it to work without the key on you would also run a jumper from big red (11'oclock)to little red (7'oclock).

Any of the above scenarios ONLY work with a working relay. To bypass a non-working relay you will HAVE to jump between the two big-uns. This could also be done with heavy duty wires and a heavy duty switch......but we invented relays to avoid this type of thing......

 

I think he means he will use the toggle to provide power to the head of the circuit, but only allow the key to activate power through it.
That sounds fine.

 

Why bother with that?
The relay will not come on unless the control circuit has a complete circuit to ground.
It's just inventing more work for yourself to try and make it any more complicated than the way that I have it set up.
IMO it is like trying to make a better mousetrap.
But it's your truck.

 

Ya I am going to remove the stock wire off the 7 o'clock position, extend it into the cab and hook it up to the power side of a lighted toggle. Off the load side of the toggle, run a wire back to the 7 o'clock position. Then when the key is on, it will allow power to be activated to the toggle. When the PCM thinks that the glow plugs should be on, they will be as long as the toggle is on. If the PCM thinks that the glow plugs should be on and the toggle is off, the glow plugs will NOT actually be on. Any thoughts?

 

That will work.
You will have to rely on the computer logic to know when to turn on the glow plugs.
The only control you will have with that setup is to disable the GPR, you will not be able to heat the glow plugs on command if the computer says no.

 

Thats alright. Here in Michigan it seems to go from summer weather right to winter weather. So in the summer I will be able to keep them off and in the winter I will keep the switch on at all times. All I was going for is that I wasn't energizing them in the summer when not needed. That for all the help Kwikkordead.

 

Installed the toggle yesterday afternoon and everything works like a charm. Thanks to the help of Kwikkordead, will be able to kill the glow plugs in the summer when not needed. Thanks a bunch guys.