Stats-
'99 CC, 189k, 2WD stock PS
Pyro, Boost, Tranny guages

Symptoms- ~70% of the time, a rough idle, no power (missing) when starting after parked overnight. I'm in Ventura, CA, so temps are typically 65 daytime and 55 night (in the winter anyway). Except for two occasions, will start within 5 secs of cranking (most of the time, 3). Sometimes will start an run just fine. Once I start it and run it in the morning....it will be great all day.

When it happens (if I don't take any mitigating action), the rough idle/running will clear at almost the same traffic light on my way to work everday (water temp guage about 1/3 of the way up in the normal op range). If I let it idle for five minutes before I drive, will clear much earlier.

Its burning oil.....maybe 3 quarts/1200miles.

Searched the site for about three hours and found some things to look at:
What I've done:
Another oil/filter change (15W40)
Checked GPR (subsequently replaced)
Checked GP resistance (all within specs)
CPS is black

This morning checked the HPOP level....it was at about 1/2. Thought I'd found the problem and filled it. Started up and rough idle again. About 100 yards from the house, I pushed the throttle about 3/4 of the way down....slow acceleration to about 2k RPM, then it felt like somebody kicked the truck in the *** and it took off. Problem cleared.

Doesn't seem to be HPOP only...so searched further. Eventually ran into rebuild threads. After an 11 mile drive into work, I pulled the oil filler cap....and found it puffing white Its a whispy white, disappearing about 3" above the filler neck. It isn't puffing very hard....ie, if you place the cap on top of the neck, it isn't strong enough to knock the cap off....or even seep the whisp past the cap. Any predictions on how bad it is?

When the truck warms up, runs great. Smooth idle, no smoke (black, blue, white or otherwise). I would have to floor the accelerator to get it to smoke.

It holds about 3psi boost at 70mph on the highway.
It will smoke a bit going up the Conejo grade (2 miles, 10-12% grade) and have to put it in 3rd to hold 60mph....but I don't think that's entirely abnormal for that particular grade. Boost on said climbs (not towing) is around 7-8psi with Pre-turbo temps around 900-950.

Is this death-knell blow-by? Or on the verge of acceptable?

 

Oh...if there's anybody around Ventura, CA that can help me with a compression test, I would be most appreciative.....I can't imagine what the dealership is going to want to charge me.....

 

Welcome to FTE, and thank you for a very informative post. If you've got a blow by issue, it will be more of a puff, puff, puff, not the almost steady faint smoke that looks more like it's coming out of the exhaust on a cool morning.

What color is the smoke coming out of the tail pipe and how heavy is it? I'd think you've got something more along the lines of an injector issue. Is there any sign of oil in the radiator degas bottle? Instead of a compression test, I'd consider getting a cylinder contribution test, and probably a buzz test on a cold engine to see if you can find any issues with the injectors. You may have a bad o-ring on the injector and/or a sticking poppet inside the injector that clears up when the oil is warm.

 

I was going to mention an injector O-ring, but I got beat to the punch.

 

My truck behaved very similarly in that it would run rough and lack power until i got to about 2000rpm then it would take off.
My problem turned out to be an injector that was not shooting any fuel - it ohmed out but I believe the poppet was stuck or something similar

So in my own long winded way - i vote for injector issues - BUZZ test just like they said above me
Good luck

Edit: Welcome to FTE Lots of help here - stick around, you will see!

 

I have the exact same symptoms as you (except that I have zero smoke). I have replaced alot of stuff including the IPR this past week. That actually did help my initial start and idle but still have the lack of power until fully warm. In week, I'll have an entire new set of injectors that I finally believe will fix my problem. I, therefore, expect your symptoms would be solved with an injector of injectors...but I will know for sure (on mine) by Monday.

 

Dieselers....great to be here....great community to get so many replies so fast.

No smoke from the tail pipe unless I hammer the throttle (the same under warm or cold conditions). It is either heavy black (when it is to the floor) or a lighter black (3/4 throttle climbing a hill).

The white whispy smoke I was referring to was from the oil filler neck.

I'll give the buzz test a shot....that's a strictly dealer thing, right?

 

Yes. White wispy smoke out the fill tube is not bad. Strong puffing out the fill tube is the bad one.

Testing the injectors can be done at the dealer, a good diesel shop, or by anyone that has a good scanner.

 

i don,t mean to change the subject but my truck has a miss so i did an injector buzz test with a snap on mt2500 and i came back ok. so i guess my question is where do i look next and will the buzz test always find a bad injector

 

The buzz test only checks part of the injector. Do a cylinder contribution test, and look at the per delta readings to get an idea if any of the injectors are having issues.

 

Though I am loathe to volunteer anyone else's time, there's a VERY experienced 7.3 user in Fillmore.

His handle is Weweld. His name is Gene. He typically hangs around Socaps (dot com), but not here much. He races these things, very competitively, and he hangs around his shop in Oxnard on weekends.

If I were in your shoes, I'd hook up with Gene and see what he thinks.

You should be able to noticeably accelerate going up the Canejo grade to at least 85, so sumptin's not right.

Pop

 

if the cylinder contribution test comes back with an issue with no. 8 cylinder does that mean an injector or could it be the uvc wiring?

 

If you would like to stop by the shop on Saturday I could do a cylinder contribution test and the injector buzz test for you.

The shop is at
1135 E Wooley Rd
Oxnard CA 93030

 

Why do you ask about the #8 cylinder? Do you have some info you're not sharing with us? Failed #8 on the CCT? Any rotational velocity or per delta readings?

A buzz test will usually identify UVCH issues. The new gray CPS being installed by Ford under the recall has been known to cause contribution faults on #8, and sometimes #3. This may or may not be accompanied by a rough idle. If that's the case, you'll want a $50 CPS from International instead of a $300 injector. A bad injector O-ring could also cause a contribution fault.

The more information you share, the easier it is to offer suggestions. If you want to work on your issue, I'd suggest starting your own thread so we don't take away from GTRjd.

 

Symptoms- ~70% of the time, a rough idle, no power (missing) when starting after parked overnight. I'm in Ventura, CA, so temps are typically 65 daytime and 55 night I think you need to find out why you have a miss! Try this plug your truck in overnight yeah even when it that warm outside-Does the miss go away?any smoke out the draft tube? Possible ring problem! possible injector problem! When is the last time you changed the fuel filter?