Anyone read about these new "green" oil filters? Changing oil every 30K miles would certainly offset the cost. Even 15K would be great.
JPF


What is it? The microGreen oil filter from SOMS Technologies is a new design that is similar to the paper oil filters used in most passenger cars and trucks but also includes a second filter. The microGreen fits the standard "spin-on" mount found on most cars and trucks and can be used in place of the filters sold at auto parts stores or installed by dealers, quick-lube shops and other auto repair outlets.
<cite>SOMS Technologies</cite>


Why is it different? The second filter in the microGreen design is made of a patented technology and can capture particles in the oil down to 2 microns without impeding the flow of oil -- a hurdle that has limited development of longer-lasting filters in the past. Removing these smaller particles means the engine oil is kept cleaner and can be used longer. Steve Kirchner, SOMS' chief operations officer says the filter still needs to be changed every 6,000 miles, but the oil can remain in the engine for as much as 30,000 miles. Most vehicles need an oil change between 3,000 and 10,000 miles.
What are the benefits? Changing the oil less frequently saves money and has environmental benefits because less oil is used. SOMS's Mr. Kirchner says roughly 600 million gallons of oil are used each year in engines. While some of that can be recycled, a good portion is not disposed of properly and can end up as a pollutant. SOMS estimates that the microGreen can cut oil maintenance costs by around 65% to 70%, and uses 70% less oil and fewer filters than conventional designs. Not changing the oil can also save time and hassle. Most drivers should get their oil changed between 3,000 and 6,000 miles, which translates to three to four times a year if you drive 12,000-15,000 miles a year. SOMS suggests changing the filter in the spring and the fall. SOMS has also paid for external tests of oil quality in vehicles using the microGreen filters to show that there is no degradation over the longer use period.
Downsides? The microGreen is two to three times more expensive than normal oil filters, depending on the type of vehicle. But that additional cost is quickly offset by doing fewer oil changes. Still, oil changes are one of the cheapest and quickest things that drivers can do to prolong the life of a car engine – and even improve fuel economy. Many quick lube outlets charge less than $30 for an oil change that can take as little as 10 minutes. An oil change also provides a reason to check over a car or truck for other safety or maintenance issues. The microGreen isn't available in most auto parts stores. The easiest way to get them is from the online store on the Web site, which launched last month.

 

That filter costs $45!!! I think that will pay for at least 2 oil changes, maybe 3, using conventional oil/filter. And they recommend that you change the filter every 6000 miles but leave the oil for 30000 miles? I wouldn't feel too comfortable keeping my oil in the engine for more than 10k miles. I think I'll stick to conventional for the foreseable future. I do recycle my oil.

 

How did you find a price? The article says they are only 2-3 X more than a regular filter. Their calc doesn't go back far enough for my Aero, my Cadillac is unavailable and I don't know any valid p/ns.

I would probably get my oil analyzed the first time through just to see how far I could go on one but $45 every 6K would pretty much kill this idea.

 

I searched guessing you had a 3.0L which takes a 3600 filter from, FRAM or STP and it came up with $49.99 for a pack of 2 filters. If you have a 4.0 (8A oil filter) it is $54.99 for a 2 pack.

 

That article lied about the price. I think a FL1-A filter can be gotten for around $5. I took a SWAG as well, since I didn't know their part numbering scheme, and their filter finder couldn't find FL1-A or PH8-A. I then added it to my cart, and WHOA! I forgot the price was for 2 filters. (Nice catch Sean.)

Still, if I used conventional oil/filter, it would be about $15 per change, at say, every 5000 miles. For 30000 miles, it would be 6 changes, or about $90. If I used the MG filter and followed their recommendations, it would be over $100 (5 filters instead of 6) for the filters, and say $10 for the oil. I would also be using questionable oil for the last 25000 miles. It's not just the dirt I'm worried about; it's all the combustion blow-by that chemically changes the oil every time I cold-start the engine. Even if it was the best filter in the world, I have a feeling it does nothing for something like oil dilution or chemical contamination.

 

We do-it-yourselfers always throw a wrench in these pitches. This was printed in the Wall St Journal, you know most readers get their cars maintained by shops.

 

You see, I use synthetic oil which costs less that your filter (5 quarts @ 6.20 per quart), hmm, that only comes to $31.00. And I routinely run my oil 15,000 - 20,000 miles between oil changes. According to the manufacturer, I can runt he oil as long as 25,000 miles, which based upon my past experiences with this oil, I can believe that. However, I do a fair amount of driving in traffic and towing mixed in with my long distance driving, so I figure I can change it around 20,000. I already use filters that are sturdy and have extra media to trap more stuff to match the extended intervals.

I am all for a better filter, but I don't see the math adding up. A filter also regardless of what the filter manufacturer says, will not remove acids or dissolved minerals from the oil, nor will it restore the viscosity modifiers, depleted detergents, cracked oil molecules, and oxidized oil. Seems this filter is a real looser to draw in people who don't know anything about petrochemicals.

 

can't see the ROI on these filters.

far more effective are what class 8 rigs run. add on bypass filter and or a centrifigal spinner. the spinner is probably cost overkill for most passenger rigs.

a good bypass filter setup for the Aero is less than $100 initial cost. filter change $10 or less. allows 20k mile oil changes.

the costly dangers of long oil change intervals outweighs their advantages unless one constantly monitors oil quality with lab analysis every 5k>10k miles like class 8 trucks do.

 

Why, how often have you seen a vehicle fail due to lubrication failure? Over 95% of the wear on passenger vehicles is due to the lack of lubrication at startup. Just a fraction of a rotation, there is no oil pressure, and the oil is basically gone at the top of the bearings, and has pooled at the bottom. Of course there is ring wear, but in reality, most leaky rings are not due to being worn out, but rather because they were never broken in properly to begin with. But thats another story. Most engine failures are due to either a total lack of lubrication (loss of oil pressure), cooling system failure blowing head gaskets in turn causing lubrication failure, and the wear that occurs to the bearings during startup. Regardless of what oil you use, if these issues are not overcome the engine will wear out and fail long before it reaches its 500,000 mile lifespan.

I use synthetic oils because my van does not leak or burn oil, which means that I do not have to add any before the next oil change (of course I check it often to make sure the level is correct), I keep my cooling system in top shape which averts the head gasket issue, and synthetic oils have much stronger surface tensions for any given viscosity, which means less wear upon startup. This means my engine will last longer. This combined with the fact that I don't have to pop the time or money to have the oil and filter replaced as often. My van is also my work vehicle, and downtime costs money. If I can extend the time and mileage between oil changes, I can save money not just o the materials, but it saves time too. Plus it is more environmentally friendly.

A better investment to reduce engine wear, would be to install a kit to reduce startup wear. The kits consist of a pressurized tank which releases its pressurized oil when the key is turned to start. This can greatly extend the life of the engine, especially if you do a lot of stops.

 

I don't understand the premise involved here. Why not just go with a larger version of the secondary filter? The two compartment model does not have any advantage and makes it more expensive to manufacture.