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96 F250, 5 speed, 460, mechanical linkage to transfer case and auto hubs.
cold weather has hit (15 degrees) and the truck will not go into 4x4, the lever moves into 4-hi and the dash light lites up but no 4wheel drive. It feels like the transfer case isn't clicking into gear. Last year it happened but when we looked at it the weather was warming and it went in with no issues. Ideas?
First guess would be the auto hubs aren't engaging. You could test this by making a mark on your front driveshaft and running your 4X4 while you pull ahead and see if the mark ends up in a different spot. You could also have someone watch the front driveshaft while you pull ahead in 4X4 but that could get dangerous. Be careful.
driveshaft is spinning, not too good of a noise coming from the right front hub, especially with the wheels cranked in a turn (ie. parking). So can those hubs be lubed or just junked and replaced with WARNS? I'd rather get it functional now (in the snow) and replaced later.
That noise by your right front hub could be a bad U joint there. That test I said to try(under No.3) wasn't right, because if the hubs were engaged that also would spin the front driveshaft. Try this test: completely disengage the 4X4 and shut the engine off crawl under the truck, the front driveshaft should spin free. Get up and pull the lever into 4X4 and crawl back under the truck, the front driveshaft now shouldn't turn if the transfer case is engaging. Sorry for the wrong advice the first time.
More back-time in the snow! Excellent! Thanks for the advice. So out of 4x4 and off it should spin, engaged it should not. Engaged it was not sprinning freely before, didn't try it non-engaged.
I've found ('95 F250 PSD ZF 5-speed, manual t-case, auto hubs, Dana 50) that in 2WD, the front driveshaft will turn _some_, maybe 1/2 turn, but then it seems to want to lock the hubs (ours are the centrifugal auto-hubs, no vacuum). It's distinct from 4WD, though; in 4WD, you try to free-turn the front shaft and it engages in the t-case within just a few degrees of rotation.
I ran into this problem on my dad's 94 explorer last year. My guess would also be the Auto hubs, those things are pretty much garbage as they are mostly plastic and odds are with a truck this old the inside of the hub is stripped. I know dealer cost on them is more for each side than for a pair of Warn Premiums with the conversion kit.
Just my opinion
-Dan-
Removing the auto hubs is the best thing you can do, either Warn or Milemarker, I like the Milemarker satinless hubs, those autohubs were the worst thing Ford did to a great 4x4.
^^^^ Even the dealer that sold us the truck said that about the autohubs; he said as soon as they fail, replace 'em with Warns. Question about running manual hubs: When you engage the hub locks, then shift the t-case shifter into 4H, once you're moving, is it still possible to shift on the fly into 2H, and just let the front shaft/axles coast on the front wheels? Is it then possible to shift on the fly back to 4H, without stopping? If any of this is possible, how far is it safe to drive in 2H with the hubs locked, and the wheels "pushing" the front drive components?
Y'know, if I had to choose among autohubs, I think I'd still rather have these centrifugal ones than the vacuum type. Maybe they're very reliable, but the idea of having to maintain vacuum lines and actuators down at the front wheels gives me the *******.
^^^^ Even the dealer that sold us the truck said that about the autohubs; he said as soon as they fail, replace 'em with Warns. Question about running manual hubs: When you engage the hub locks, then shift the t-case shifter into 4H, once you're moving, is it still possible to shift on the fly into 2H, and just let the front shaft/axles coast on the front wheels? Is it then possible to shift on the fly back to 4H, without stopping? If any of this is possible, how far is it safe to drive in 2H with the hubs locked, and the wheels "pushing" the front drive components?
You can lock the front hubs and drive around as much as you want in 2wd without hurting anything. You can also shift in and out of 4hi on the fly with the hubs locked.
What I do - and a lot of others do as well - is lock the hubs in if you might need them and then you don't have to get in & out every time you want to use it. If I'm driving in the mountains in the winter, or doing a weekend of four wheeling I'll usually just lock them in and forget about it. The only penalty is a slight decrease in gas mileage. Someone always chimes in about now and points out that you will cause wear & tear on your front drivetrain, but I've never heard of anyone replacing anything in the front axle because they wore it out.
Thanks for all the advice. I had done a lot of searching before posting, but was wanting to "repair" instead of replace. We took them apart last night, packed to the hilt with grease (not our doing), cleaned them up put it back together and it still didn't work. Thought it was worth a shot but now it looks like 3 hrs of my life I'll never get back. Warns will go in tomorrow night. Any sage advice on that install or perhaps a tech thread with pics?
Thanks,
Dave
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