Light Switch Question
Light Switch Question
guys got a question i'm hoping one of you can answer . got a brand new headlight switch here from a 74 ford 1/2 ton . i, am going to be starting a rewire , no kits , just me , a lil' common sense and a lot of prayers and cussing . well i have figured out all but one terminal / set of wires . they , if you are looking at the front , on the right side on a the second terminal back marked d2 and a green with yellow . any idea's ?
i was testing the switch and yep i think thats what they are , but now it leaves me wondering bout the d1 terminal and the black with blue stripe on it . been trying to find a 74 ford truck diagram so i could just use it for the rewire color codes and make it all match .
I have a word of advice....you can take it or leave it.
If you are going to rewire then do it right. Incorporating these different orphan components and intermixing wiring harnesses and different items with no standard configuration or schematic is going to result in "Frankenwiring." This is the kind of abortion that a "PO" has usually done already and a "CO" rewires to undo.
Why not wire the truck with a consistant year or plan and use the diagram, wiring scheme and components from that year. Suggestion: 1955 would be a good year for you!
If you need any help I will be glad to send you my wiring diagrams and plans. They are generic and will work really fine on your truck!
Good Luck
Julie
If you are going to rewire then do it right. Incorporating these different orphan components and intermixing wiring harnesses and different items with no standard configuration or schematic is going to result in "Frankenwiring." This is the kind of abortion that a "PO" has usually done already and a "CO" rewires to undo.
Why not wire the truck with a consistant year or plan and use the diagram, wiring scheme and components from that year. Suggestion: 1955 would be a good year for you!
If you need any help I will be glad to send you my wiring diagrams and plans. They are generic and will work really fine on your truck!
Good Luck
Julie
Just remember than up to 55 Ford trucks were 6V POSITIVE ground, Trucks after 56 and most cars including your 74 were 12V NEGATIVE ground. A 6V +grd truck can be easily converted to 12V - grd, but you need to decide which way you are going to go before you start. The 74 wiring will be too light a gauge for 6V use, and trying to mix +grd wiring with -grd devices can make for a nightmare.
One of the D terminals may be parking/driving lights, hot when the switch is turned/pulled to it's first position.
One of the D terminals may be parking/driving lights, hot when the switch is turned/pulled to it's first position.
julie i am going to do it right and incorporate some things i want , and like ax said they were all 6volt till 56 . orphan components ? dain near everyone on here has some sort of orphan component on thier trucks . i am going to rewire using the 74 switch as it is compact , new in the box , and best of all i dont have to buy the thing outright . as such i'm gonna rewire it using the color codes from that year . also i'm not incorporating different wiring harnesses . it's getting RIPPED OUT !! the po has already butchered it and put a gm alternator and hacked it to peices . it is going completely 12 volt . i have been patching it , doing just what i have had too to this point and it has become a major issue , so it's time . on top of the 74 switch i am going to keep the gm alternator , again it's here , it's free , and it works , either a mixture of the 63 speedo , and aftermarket gauges , or if i find a good speedo head without going broke i'll use the originals with drop resistors to keep from frying them . it, either way is getting two temp gauges , a newer , more compact heater i snarfed out of a mitsubishi / dodge d 50 mini truck , a dash extension i'm making from a rusted out 55 dash to house the heater controls , a power on / off switch for the electric fuel pump it has now , as well as an electric fan to replace that ungodly arrangement ford blessed the beautiful motor with . as you can see it's not gonna be stock or all ford as i am a tight a-- , who uses whats available and doesn't cost a months wages . wrong or right dunno it's mine and it'll work or i get to do it all over again . oh and the light switch and the ignition switch are gonna be run off of two seperate power sources . that ought to be obvious , already had an incident where the ignition fried and took other things with it .......
i'm a wiring dunce so i also got a very old freind and resident rocket scientist and rodder of 50 plus years helping me .......

i'm a wiring dunce so i also got a very old freind and resident rocket scientist and rodder of 50 plus years helping me .......
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got those plans from ya already julie , and they'vr been a help both in the planning and in a recent incident figuring out that the po had several items hooked up in the wrong spot , by passed , or just left bare wires hanging all together . i knew it was a rats nest when i got it but ...............
its gonna be done right , soldered , a real fuse block , whatever it needs . no half a--ed stuff so whichever child of mine ends up with it can't complain 'bout the ol' mans work .
sorry if i seem defensive but i may come across " BLONDE " sometimes , but i do do my homework when it comes time ... and i've been a pain in Buds posterior with questions .................
I am looking at a wiring diagram and it is a little hard to explain this in words but I will try.
The Green/yellow wire is fed by a 15 amp fuse in the fuse panel. It feeds the glove box light, cargo light, cigar lighter and door jamb switches as well as 12v to the light switch.
The black/blue goes to the other side of the door jamb switches and the dome light.
You really need to look at a wiring diagram to make sense of it.
It is wired so that you get a dome light feed through the green/yellow wire when switched via the light switch or through the black/blue when switched via the door switch.
The Green/yellow wire is fed by a 15 amp fuse in the fuse panel. It feeds the glove box light, cargo light, cigar lighter and door jamb switches as well as 12v to the light switch.
The black/blue goes to the other side of the door jamb switches and the dome light.
You really need to look at a wiring diagram to make sense of it.
It is wired so that you get a dome light feed through the green/yellow wire when switched via the light switch or through the black/blue when switched via the door switch.
Here is a copy of the diagram.
It shows an option for dome light only or with cargo light.
With dome light only disregard the part of the diagram going to the dome/cargo combo light. The dome light only uses one wire going to the light. green/yellow. If using with cargo light it also uses the black/blue wire.
It shows an option for dome light only or with cargo light.
With dome light only disregard the part of the diagram going to the dome/cargo combo light. The dome light only uses one wire going to the light. green/yellow. If using with cargo light it also uses the black/blue wire.
where'd ya find that at 52 . i have been looking for one online for 3 days , but then again i'm as bright with this thing as with wiring , and no amount of study helps , LOL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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