Howdy all! It looks like my ’99 F350’s PSD got dusted and I am going to have to rebuild it. I am curious what you all would recommend I should replace or upgrade while I have the engine out for the rebuild. I am going to pull the 6 speed manual ZF and rebuild it as well since getting into third can be a little noisy. The truck is all stock with no upgrades what so ever. It is an XLT 4x4 F350 dually if that matters. Oh, and it has 192k miles on it (yes, the former owner was a door **** and did zero maintenance). Thanks, -blake

 

1. bellowed up pipes
2. 4 inch turbo back SS MBRP exhaust
3. rebuild the turbo
4. thoroughly inspect the oil pan - many have rusted through
5. new water pump - need it or not
6. rebuild all the HPOP lines - no sense having a leak on a new engine

 

Well sorry to hear about need to rebuild! But anyways. Personally i would just get in there and Clean... I would also take the time to spray paint the engine bay... I would like to go with some outrageous color like blue or something so when you pop your people are like WHOA!

 

Maintenance. What a wonderful thing. The cost is worth it. Remember this after you do the rebuild.

 

Ummm, whats our budget? Early or late 99




Nevermind, you only do this once.

new modded 17* HPOP
new hpo lines.
38R BB turbo
head studs
Hybrid injectors
regulated return
bellowed upipes
Spearco IC
and of course custom tuning by Jody or Tony

 

Go through the rear-end while you're at it. Then you'd be fresh from the rooter to the tooter...

 

Cleaning is on the list. After I bought the truck and got it back home, I had to spend a couple of hours with my steam pressure washer blasting the dirt, gook, and sludge off of the undersides. I have dealt with some pretty dirty vehicles in my time, but this one blew all those away. I had to actually lift the F350 off the ground with my boom truck, climb into my fowl weather gear and Martha Stewart the d@mn thing. Needless to say, I am sure there is some dirt hiding in spots I will only have access to after I pull the engine and drive train. As for painting, outrageous black will be my color of choice – mainly being POR15.

 

As for budget, I would say around $3k for the engine rebuild. I imagine much higher than that and I could start to find rebuilt long blocks of questionable quality. That price would include the machining work. I will be twirling all the wrenches and some of the machining as this is not my first engine rebuilding rodeo.

The truck is a late 98 build, and looking at Jasper’s website I would say the engine is a 12/07/98 – ’99 engine since it has the 3” intake vice the 2”.

 

When I first got the truck, and after the serious cleaning, I went around the truck and did the maintenance the last @zzhole never did. He did some repairs that were pretty scary, but then I do not wish to discredit the fellow as he was clearly qualified to have also worked on the Space Shuttle Columbia…

Let’s see, on the front the brakes discs were grooved which were stopped by the rivets that formerly held the brake pads in place, the calipers leaked, the upper and lower ball joints had rust dust lubricating them, but fortunately the hub bearing assemblies were in good shape; however one side was missing two of the four major stud bolts that hold those in place. I was pretty sure the former owner had the front wheels off the ground at least once in the trucks former life as he placed the floor jack directly under the steering linkage. That took quite a bit of work in my hydraulic press to get the linkage straight again. There was more wrong, but my stomach is starting getting weak.

The rear by comparison only needed everything replaced – except for the rear pumpkin. I pulled the cover off dreading the worst and found it to be in excellent shape. No odd wear patterns, no failed bearings or filings in the oil, and the backlash was dead on. I did replace all the u-joints however. So the, umm, tooter is in good shape. Those Dana 80s are pretty tough units.

 

Thanks for the input Leo, it is a good start to the list. -blake

 

Make sure you clean out or replace the exhaust back-pressure sensor tube, and at least clean the sensor. They carbon-up and clog.

Use a torque wrench for EVERYTHING. Don't guess.

Trust me, we'll think of a lot more stuff as time goes on.

Just from what you've written, you've convinced me that, indeed, this isn't your first "rebuild rodeo", so it looks like all we can ask you to do is take good photos, 'cause it's unlikely you'll be asking any "how-to" questions. I highly suspect you already know how. Welcome to the group. It's always good to have a newbie with skills.

Pop

 

Thats a good list.

If its not a 99, go get some forged rods IMO.

That looks like forged rods, thats a good thing then.

Two more very good points.

 

Get a DI intercooler instead of a Spearco.

 

OK, I am trying to attach a picture I took of the engine serial number – I am not sure how this will come out so from what I can read, it has one number going in one direction and another going in a perpendicular direction to the first (and look, some dirt and crud I still did not get blasted from the engine!): 7.4JU2UI7098213 and the other number 2EA08068 (I am really not sure on these, they are ummm… open to interpretation so please see the picture, if I can get it posted). I figure someone on the site knows how to decipher this thing and tell me when it was manufactured and what internals may need replaced due to poor reliability.

Thanks everyone, I appreciate your help, I really do, -blake

 

If the valve cover decal on the driver side is still there it will have the engine manu date on it.