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Ok, I checked again. The right bearing is bad. The left bearing didn't make any noise when i spun the wheel. Any recommendations on a replacement?
Also, anyone know about these "pads" between the leaves of the leaf springs?
Glad you found it. With a defective bearing it is possible to lose a wheel if it is driven to failure. Not that hard to replace I just did one last month on my 4wd 7.3.
I'm going to let NTB replace the ball joints, but I think I'm giong to try to replace the bearing. I hate when these things pop-up around Christmas. Any suggestions on which brand to use, what to reference for help, ect.? I still need to get rid of this noise from the leaf springs.
I'm going to let NTB replace the ball joints, but I think I'm giong to try to replace the bearing. I hate when these things pop-up around Christmas. Any suggestions on which brand to use, what to reference for help, ect.? I still need to get rid of this noise from the leaf springs.
I have a 2000 7.3 4wd and did considerable research into which bearing to buy. Ford direct sells about $450. However Autozone (I know there are those who don't like this option) sells a Timken direct replacement that includes the abs pickup and wire harness for about $350. There are cheaper bearings. However I have used Timken for years in industry and found them to be very good bearings. I bought the Timken bearing.
I would suggest you spray the nuts inside the knuckle assembly then night before with penetrating oil. Also spray the mount flange between the bearing housing and the knuckle assembly.
I also suggest you use only a high quality 6 point socket to remove the nuts holding the bearing in place. This is a location where you do not want to round off the nuts using 12 point or cheap tools.
You will need to replace the 4wd seals on the hub. The big seal at the hub needs a special tool to install. I bought this seal for about $45 at the dealer and asked them to install it. I brought the axle assembly cleaned up with me when I bought the seal.
You will need a long pair of snap ring pliers to remove the snapring holding the hub nut in place. I think
8" pliers might be long enough. Photo the washers under the hub nut and put them back exactly as the way you removed them. There is a groove that allows vacuum to activate the hub and installed incorrectly the 4wd won't work.
One observation is to photo how the dust shield behind the bearing mounts. Some of us have been known to put in on backwards then you can't put the disc brake back on. And don't ask how I know.
The bearing replacement is really not that difficult a job but do change all the 4wd seals. There is 1 dust cover at the axle housing and 1 that does the vacuum seal on the spindle.
If you need more info or pics you can search or PM me. Jim
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