When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I just had the brakes done on my 78 f-150. I took it to a trusted shop where they replaced mc, booster. I've found that sometimes when I come to a complete stop, the engine (351m) dies..this happened a couple of times, but not every.
I'm assuming this is a power issue. what can I do to fix this?
btw- drums in rr, disc front and 35" tires
on a side note- the shop said that the brake lines seem fine (no leaks) and did not replace them, but I worry due to them being original and I live in the rust belt. should I have this done or if it's not broke don't fix it?
When the motor cuts out, does it stumble or shake at all before stalling, or is it a fast cut-out? Inspect the 3/8" ID vacuum line that runs from the booster to the intake manifold.
As for the brake lines, get underneath, take a look at them and see if there are any rust issues or not.
mine used to do the same thing, tried a few things but it only stopped when i went and installed an electronic distributer. The best thing I ever did btw.
[QUOTE=fmc400;6870797]When the motor cuts out, does it stumble or shake at all before stalling, or is it a fast cut-out? Inspect the 3/8" ID vacuum line that runs from the booster to the intake manifold.QUOTE]
it seems to just slowly die. If I give it some gas, it keeps going. It may shake a bit, but I don't recall anything out of the ordinary
I agree with 75F350, it could be a vacuum leak. With the motor idling, spray a can of carb cleaner around suspect areas and listen for a jump in idle. I'd start with the booster and the booster vacuum line.
mine used to do the same thing, tried a few things but it only stopped when i went and installed an electronic distributer. The best thing I ever did btw.
Tell me more. What brand/model, how much? What makes it the best thing that you have every done.
You might want to go for the cheaper route "easier" route, replacing the dist. isnt necessarily going to do anything and isnt always the problem like first suggested and I'd trust FMC and 75350 with it being a vacuum leak. Check the one coming off the Power Booster, if they didnt put it on tight/right or if it is crack which is very possible. Mine was cracked so I replaced it made my truck run right.
Replacing the distributer isnt always the answer to everything
Tell me more. What brand/model, how much? What makes it the best thing that you have every done.
I have a 351m and it had points dizzy as factory, being nearly 30 the dizzy was worn so that it had an eliptical orbit and thus would upset the points gap. Sometimes it would not start or it would stall and I would adjust the gap ( i keept a guage on the key ring) and just down the way it might happen again. So I spent some cash and got an ASP dizzy, had the thing re graphed and dyno tuned and I have not had to touch it since. It improved fuel ecomomy by 5-6% as well. I could not notice increased power at high revs but it idles better.
I hope this has helped Creed.
Replacing the distributer isnt always the answer to everything
Wait! So <i>THAT'S</i> what I've been doing wrong. When my marriage was failing I just replaced my distributer. I ended up divorced.
You're right, it's NOT the answer to everything.
I just had the brakes done on my 78 f-150. I took it to a trusted shop where they replaced mc, booster. I've found that sometimes when I come to a complete stop, the engine (351m) dies..this happened a couple of times, but not every.
I'm assuming this is a power issue. what can I do to fix this?
btw- drums in rr, disc front and 35" tires
on a side note- the shop said that the brake lines seem fine (no leaks) and did not replace them, but I worry due to them being original and I live in the rust belt. should I have this done or if it's not broke don't fix it?
IF they replaced the booster, you need to check vacuum leaks. There is a plug on back of the carb that can be used. Where is the booster hose going? I'd be surprised if this isn't your issue. You might want to take it back and make them fix it.
Sounds like a vacuum leak to me as well, especially if it only happened after they replaced your booster. If it was a carb. or dist. issue I would think you would have noticed it before this. It could be a coinicidence, but I woud say it has something to do with the booster or vacuum line from what you describe.
I haven't bothered much with it, because the next night I was driving down a MAJOR road and it started sputtering. I would give it gas and it would just rev up and not pick up speed, as least not enough to keep other angry motorists from giving me their #1 finger. I got a friend to follow me so that I could limp home but...
It turns out that my brake lights decided to crap out as well....or that's what the cop told me when she pulled me over that same night and proved how fast she is at writing tickets...
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.