opps looks what i have started ,
my heads say d3ve a2a and i do have a lifter problem a little but i cant adjust my valves so the mech i had put on my stuff would not touch them put y truck back together and called me and told me oh yeah we didnt do it you got to go get someelse do do the whole job again and.... needless to say after he messed that up he messed up my intake by leaving stuff unconected i had a vacume which meesed up everything ie timing and so i took it to a diff mech and he tuned it in for my put it on his aircare and it passed with flying colors if that help u guys help me anybetter i will get my trans /converter checked/tested like you said and get back to you guys as soon as i can. how can i tell if i have a dana 40 or 60 front axle? and i know this is stupid but i do just regear the rear end with 5:13 gears right?? and if i do and deside i dont like the 44s can i go back to the 38s?which i might not use due to my 38.5 hitting my power assist steering unit beside the left tire when sharper turning. i read if i go full power steering this will solve this problem. or should i just wheel spacers? steering seems soft enouph to me? and i just replaced the power assist unit with a fresh rebuilt one a couple weeks ago so if i dont have a dana 60 up front im going to stay on 38s for a few years and go with 1.5 inch per side wheel spacers.

 

oh yeah it may take me some time to get my stuff checked i just got taken off full time and am on 3 days a weeks due to laying off half the company i work for the other day so money is Tight now.. :P good times never change lol im hopeing to get this all done by feb,but i got bcaa so ill get the compresion test done? do i do it now or after i do the cam? not sure if u wanted what my compression is now or after. if its any help my truck seems to run better on 87 octane i put in 91 the other day and i dont notice any diff if not a little lowder on the pimg sound ... not sure if this is supposed to be right lol

 

the Dana 60 front has a much bigger (wider) 4" lock hub than the dana 44.

 

um im not 2 sure at the locking hub" right where i lock it manually right"?i measure it at 5 iches my axle measures 2"and say 3/4 give or take and both front and back are the same?

 

On a dana 60 the front cover bolts will use a 9/16 inch wrench and a dana 44 will need a 1/2 inch wrench.

 

You have a highboy, which has either a low pinion Dana 44 or a Low pinion Dana 60. Neither of which will tolerate 44" tires for long. Stick with the 38's for now. I would check into the price of 44's over 38s. Also read how much lift and or fender trimming you will have to do in order to get them to fit, not mentioning the grief you will encounter when they hit your cab mounts, headers and whatever else is in the way.

Monsterbaby: Scott had to spend alot of time to figure out how to port them heads so the work worth two salts, most joes do not have their own flow bench to test their backyard porting. Last I checked, he did have a nice writeup on how to get some decent numbers outta a set of d3's. I think "some" of the allure of the D3 over the C8, C9 and D0 heads were the fact that they were bolt on horsepower for a bone stock engine, with the pistons .035 in the hole, even if it was only 10-20 HP improvement. I noticed an immediate improvement when I put my D0's on my bone stock 460. If I build another 460, this time around I will go flattops, zero decked block, and some D3s because I have them laying around with the same kind of effort I put into the D0's to see how well they work, AND save $100-200 for D0 cores to start with. If I had the extra bread, I would go aluminum anything, and aim for a little bit more compression than I would with an iron head. That being said however, I do not have $6K to sink into an engine, hell, my last motor I built I easily had 3K into, but boy was it fun! The argument I am waiting to see is why it makes sense to build a stroker, why waste your money trying to make power with a stock stroke.....

 

Ive run both the C8's(ported-no egr bump) and currently the D3's(stock). Went to D3's due to exhaust seat burn out/wear due to propane and age. Same cubic inch, cam, intake, carb-and lost alot of torque-due to compression. Mind you-I want compression, for my 110 octane lpg, and for torque, and mileage too.
From what I understand the D3's have a deeper quench pocket, which makes the exhaust port have more of a dog leg, and less flow-from what I have read. As for flow, going past .500" valve lift gets dangerous-high wear, and in need of roller cam/rockers, and still will have increased valve guide wear. The 385 series are bad for weak valve springs, and breaking springs-been there.
And yes, running a "straight up" timing chain in the 460's is better for low end and mileage. As far as I know, D3 and up parts are meant only for emission bandaids, not power(stock).
Things are different today however, you can take-say a stock mid 70's 460, like the op's overhaul it with some flat top pistons, or not-and choose a very good cam for it. Today, its mostly all custom camshafts-or very knowledgeable cam guys.

Myself, am at a standpoint-rebuild my C8's, or just get some aluminum ones-btw, any recomendations!!?? Heh, here is some comedy-talked to a local machine shop(only one around)-who does not rebuild engines. Asked what they could do, and the shop manager said "huh, I drive a honda" I coulda slapped him.
So I guess I get to order a pre-built custom shortblock, and some kind of heads-cause nothin honda makes will live under my hood! I would make sure of it

little off topic, but hope it helps

 

Buy a Honda, common (good) advice. I unfortunately own and drive a VW.

 

Tony you hit on my point, the D0VE heads are fine IF YOU ALREADY HAVE THEM. they are not CJ or SCJ or PI pieces they are standard passenger car heads with no real advantage over any except the D2VE heads (open chamber prone to detonation) So telling people to waste 2-400 to buy a set of D0VE cores is wasting money for zero advantage. instead of wasting your money buying someones cores to rebuild and then have to do all the work you could take that $300 that the cores cost (just sold a set of D0VE heads for a friend and they brought $325 on ebay) and buy a set of stainless CJ sized valves for the D3VE heads PLUS put in hardened seats and be that much ahead of the game VS the guy that wasted the money on the D0VE heads.

As sold by ford the D0VE heads use the same exact valves as the 351c 2V motor, you know the LOW performance cleveland small block, and in fact it's also the same valves as used in the 351M/400 now there is a powerhouse HP building machine from the factory.

Yes Scott has spent time (which is why I say he is about the best in the country for porting stock configuration heads, even kaase had him do the port work to come up with the final casting shape for the P51 heads) BUT what Scott and almost every other major BBF builder knows is that the flow of the D3VE heads are equal to the early heads in all respects both as cast and ported. Plus the HP potential is every bit as high and in fact there is several guys making north of 700hp using well ported D3VE heads.

The D0VE heads also tend to get guys in trouble when building strokers because of the small chambers, someone tells the guy building a street stroker to buy a set of D0VE heads then finds out after spending all the money to go through them that on a 521 even with 36CC dish pistons you are still over 10:1 compression which really isn't conducive to using pump gas with an iron head.

So as I originally stated it's a myth that the D0VE heads are bolt on performance or even remotely a good investment if your looking for power, unless you are wanting or needing to run an iron headed race gas only engine and even then there better choice would be D2OE, or D00E-R.

 

ah ok so i got 1/2 bolts on the front and 9/16" on the rear so i fig im not going to put 44s on maybe one day when its just a toy not a daily driver..
so should i just keep my heads i have on then or should i do as you said and custom the ones i have? i checked out the rmp heads, for a complete head its 1k each....ouch. If im not running 44 should i got with 4:88 gears then? and i looked into the cam when i got to the shop buddy was like there is 6 cams for your 460 from voodoo/ilunati so what is the one i need? i told him i know i need an rv cam and he looked at my like i was on drugs lol
i realy want to put a cam in the truck im no gearhead but i sure like the sound of a nice cam +the benifits it will give me makes me think its a no brainer but im going to get the gears done first im going to do this my self i think just need to find a friend that know how so i dont mess and feed him beer for sitting there watching me lol,
my trans does clunk a little bit i notice somtimes much worse than othere when going into 2nd, 3rd gears is always nice and smooth so im going to take care of this right after i do the gears. any sugestions for my trans?

 

Sorry to be the one to say this, but the thumpada-thumpada-thumpada you seek at idle from a cam is really gotten from a hi RPM cam, not an RV/torque cam. That distinct rumble at idle is heard from a cam that doesn't want to idle at all, but wants hi revs to breathe right- your 460 does not want to rev like a 327 (sorry- had several Chevy engines in a past life ).. You CAN get a cool, beefy sound out of your 460 though through maybe a pair of series 40 Flowmaster mufflers...

 

I do agree on the heads flowing about the same. The one big difference is the older heads have studs for valvetrain for heads don't have to spend money to get a adjustable valvetrain. some heads you have to change out the studs for proper studs for adjustable valvetrain. The turndowns really need to be worked on ford heads at valve pockets and serious exhaust work. But for 4wd world heavy truck these older heads work nice for our application. I've done some dove and d3ve and c8ve heads and to me the difference is extra expense on valvetrain machining. My head porter said I didn't need the kasse heads for my application Because I wasn't turning much over 5000rpm. When I work the older heads its turndowns and exhaust and gasket match for 4wd world. Drag racing different head bigger stuff on flow. On the Cobrajet heads their turndowns are terrible and usually you have to epoxy up the intakes to help the turndowns to valves. Also need some cubic inch to make those heads work properly. Also the ford exhaust need lots of work to flow decent. Hope this helps somebody out but I run dove heads on my 4wd and work great for my application. I have a set of d3ve on my 429 and they work nice also and lots of port work for my application. Bought a set of c8ve head this summer for 150 bucks for another 4wd project.

 

ok i got problems ... i got a cooland leek on monday and it backfired on me i took it to the shop today after not being able to fix it myself, the guy at midas says something is cracked where my timing gear is and they did a depth tester to see how far down it goes into the motor and it pretty much hits my engine block says i probly need new timing gear set and they need to get out a sheared off bolt ther 2. whould it be smart to put a cam and lifters and gear set all in now get it out of the way and do my 4:88 gears in a couple months after i get back on my feet with slow work right now? or just do the timeing gears like midas says and do the 4:88 gears that much faster? and leave the lifter problem for now? not to sure what exactly he said but hes going to take a better look at it and see what i need to do and price it all out first before anything is done so ill have more info if this is not enouph for you guys to know what im talking about lol

 

if its not worn, keep the stock cam. just get a 1968-71 timing set. (or a roller set)

you may have a corroded timing cover, the water pump and timing cover bolts often corroded due to the iron and aluminum sandwiched together. or a rotted water pump backing plate.

 

and just to throw gas on the fire, I prefer the 73-78 heads, but I do minimize the smog bump in the port. I have c8 heads and D0VE heads as well on the correct applications, but in my typical work truck build, I like the D1 block, with unleaded D3-up heads with dual plane non EGR intake 68-9 lincoln my favorite with 4-hole spacer(s) I like the stock Cleveland-style rockers 73-up, but replace the rocker sleds with roller fulcrums from crane. if you need to use stock rocker fulcrums, the later ones have oiling grooves the first few years didnt