Vacum lines for 4x4
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Vacum lines for 4x4
Ok going to go over my entire system again to see if I missed anything.
This is on a 97 F150 4.6 4x4 automatic with the ESOF
Here are a few question.
1) does 4x4H have it's own vacum hoses and 4x4L have it's own. My 4x4L works great but no 4x4H. Trying to rule things out as I go. I still think it's electrical, but I'm going to look over the things again.
2) If I remove the GEM to clean the contacts and check the wiring to make sure none are corroded or clipped etc, does that require reprogramming of the GEM. I read somewhere it does, but I also find places that sell GEM to replace your stock one. Just wanted to check before I start to remove the GEM.
3) on the transfer case motor harness, what pin/s do I need to hit with my volt/ohm meter to check if it's getting a signal for 2H/4H/4L? I know 2H and 4L since it move it out of gear fine, jut wanted to make sure it's not the transfer case motor.
4) Can the dealer hook the truck up to a machine that trouble shoots the system or how would they go about fixing my issue? I dont really want to pay $90 and hour for multiple hours for them to tell me it a $40 part that is bad etc....
Thanks,
This is on a 97 F150 4.6 4x4 automatic with the ESOF
Here are a few question.
1) does 4x4H have it's own vacum hoses and 4x4L have it's own. My 4x4L works great but no 4x4H. Trying to rule things out as I go. I still think it's electrical, but I'm going to look over the things again.
2) If I remove the GEM to clean the contacts and check the wiring to make sure none are corroded or clipped etc, does that require reprogramming of the GEM. I read somewhere it does, but I also find places that sell GEM to replace your stock one. Just wanted to check before I start to remove the GEM.
3) on the transfer case motor harness, what pin/s do I need to hit with my volt/ohm meter to check if it's getting a signal for 2H/4H/4L? I know 2H and 4L since it move it out of gear fine, jut wanted to make sure it's not the transfer case motor.
4) Can the dealer hook the truck up to a machine that trouble shoots the system or how would they go about fixing my issue? I dont really want to pay $90 and hour for multiple hours for them to tell me it a $40 part that is bad etc....
Thanks,
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If the truck goes into low, then the issue isn't a vacuum problem they use the same lines. As for cleaning any contacts on the gem, you can and you will not have to reprogram it, it's only needed if it is replaced. The wires for the switch go to the module (gem) You can check the switch, I would check the pins on the rear of the switch to see if you get a proper ohms reading. They are, 3.9k ohms, 1.1k ohms, and 360 ohms for 2w, 4wh, 4wl. As for hooking it up and testing it, yes it can be hooked up and self tested on a scan tool.
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If the truck goes into low, then the issue isn't a vacuum problem they use the same lines. As for cleaning any contacts on the gem, you can and you will not have to reprogram it, it's only needed if it is replaced. The wires for the switch go to the module (gem) You can check the switch, I would check the pins on the rear of the switch to see if you get a proper ohms reading. They are, 3.9k ohms, 1.1k ohms, and 360 ohms for 2w, 4wh, 4wl. As for hooking it up and testing it, yes it can be hooked up and self tested on a scan tool.
Yea the vacumm hoses seemed ok to me, but figured I'd ask.
As for the switch, it gives me those readings you stated. as soon as I select 4H, just clicking sounds from the relay/fuse under the oval. The light never comes on in the dash nor does it go in to 4H. Everything works perfectly though for 4L.
Do you know what pins to check on the Transfer case motor if I unplug the harness? For all of them or atleast 4H?
As for testing the system, I dont have a check engine light on, so can they still scan the electrical system and tell me? I'm hoping it's not the GEM, but at this point i'm really pointing my fingers at it since it sends the signal.
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Yes, they can specifically check the 4x4 system. As for the pins on the motor, I don't really suspect the motor. Does the 4x4 high light come on momentarily when you switch to 4x4 low? I am suspecting the relays that controll the motor. They are located in the center of the dash sort of behind the radio and climate controlls and to the left. You can get at them by removing the knee bolster and looking to the right of the column. You should see an angle bracket. look through the bracket, they are on the rh side of the bracket in a box. Try swapping different relays into them and see if your 4x4 works.
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Yes, they can specifically check the 4x4 system. As for the pins on the motor, I don't really suspect the motor. Does the 4x4 high light come on momentarily when you switch to 4x4 low? I am suspecting the relays that controll the motor. They are located in the center of the dash sort of behind the radio and climate controlls and to the left. You can get at them by removing the knee bolster and looking to the right of the column. You should see an angle bracket. look through the bracket, they are on the rh side of the bracket in a box. Try swapping different relays into them and see if your 4x4 works.
I'll see if I can get to those relay's you mentioned. You access those by removing the bottom piece under the actual dash right? Would it be on the left side or right side then? Any other hints what to look for, for those relays by the radio/dash area? Thanks again, I'm hoping to get this fixed today or this week because not having 4H sucks.
Worst case I'll taking it in to the dealer, I was hoping not to though.
Thanks again.
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If you go to 4L, then back to 4H will it stay engaged into 4H? Seems the motor works fine since it will go to 4L. The module tries to engage 4x4 up to 5 times then will shut down. And yes, you remove the piece under the dash where your knees are. Look up and to the right through the metal angle bracket.
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By the way, also check the orange and yellow wires to the motor on the transfer case, when switched, yellow wire should get 12v in 2wd, and orange ground. In 4H and 4L, orange wire 12v. and yellow ground. The motor is bi-directional.
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If you go to 4L, then back to 4H will it stay engaged into 4H? Seems the motor works fine since it will go to 4L. The module tries to engage 4x4 up to 5 times then will shut down. And yes, you remove the piece under the dash where your knees are. Look up and to the right through the metal angle bracket.
it will not stay engaged. You can hear the mechanical clunk from the 4L being disengaged. Both lights go off and nothing.
When you say it shuts down, are you saying the relay should stop clicking? I'm pretty sure it just keeps clicking till I deselect 4H and go back to 2H or 4L.
I'll look at those relays/fuses you told me about. I hope it's one of those. I'll test the wire you mentioned at the transfer case motor as well.
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Ranger88a,
do you know if the ESOF has this switch like stated in this post?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...esnt-work.html
I posted in it but so far no one has replied rather or not the models with the ESOF has them.
do you know if the ESOF has this switch like stated in this post?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...esnt-work.html
I posted in it but so far no one has replied rather or not the models with the ESOF has them.
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Yes, they can specifically check the 4x4 system. As for the pins on the motor, I don't really suspect the motor. Does the 4x4 high light come on momentarily when you switch to 4x4 low? I am suspecting the relays that controll the motor. They are located in the center of the dash sort of behind the radio and climate controlls and to the left. You can get at them by removing the knee bolster and looking to the right of the column. You should see an angle bracket. look through the bracket, they are on the rh side of the bracket in a box. Try swapping different relays into them and see if your 4x4 works.
Thanks again.
I'll check the wire for power at the TC motor tomorrow night.
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only thing I see is a plastic creme or white colored box that has a small wiring harnes going to it that is cramed in there very bottom. you can see it if you remove the black plastic in the center on the bottom by the carpet, or you can see it by looking at the center section from the passenger side.
Is that is? If so, not sure how to even get that box out. are there fuses/ relays in the box then?
Is that is? If so, not sure how to even get that box out. are there fuses/ relays in the box then?
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Sorry, had wrong truck in my head. Looked at the scematic and it's probably in the top of the dash, remove the top panel, lift it up and it will come off you will have to pry a little. Should be approx. in the center of the dash. Sorry for the inconvenience. If you have an e-mail address, I may be able to send you the wiring diagram.
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Sorry, had wrong truck in my head. Looked at the scematic and it's probably in the top of the dash, remove the top panel, lift it up and it will come off you will have to pry a little. Should be approx. in the center of the dash. Sorry for the inconvenience. If you have an e-mail address, I may be able to send you the wiring diagram.
Thanks,
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Sorry, had wrong truck in my head. Looked at the scematic and it's probably in the top of the dash, remove the top panel, lift it up and it will come off you will have to pry a little. Should be approx. in the center of the dash. Sorry for the inconvenience. If you have an e-mail address, I may be able to send you the wiring diagram.
You're talking about the Oval piece of plastic, there is block(box) of relays but more on passenger side under the Oval plastic dash cover right? Yea there are about 4 relays, one by itself and when I removed there was no sound, so I knew it was it. Now I removed the other relays and put them in place of the one clicking. It did the same thing. I doubt all the relays are bad or else other stuff would'nt be working right.
I remember someone mentioning there was another relay though, but not in that location. Somewhere behind the radio area like you said. I guess a relay to control the actual motor and one for something else.
I'm almost at the point to pay $88 bones to get the 4x4 scaned for trouble cods since the dealer is the only one who can scan them.
