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would that cause his electrical system to function better by pulling straight from the battery? since im assuming power windows consume alot of juice and if you are sitting at a traffic light with windshield wipers, headlights, stereo, and heater running would the headlights and whatnot dim when you engage your windows running off a circuit from under the dash?
If you're doing that kind of electrical work on your truck, I suggest taking the opportunity to update the rest of the system. The universal kit from Summit is under $300, and has wires in the harness for power windows and locks. I installed one in a Jeep Wagoneer, it was fairly straightforward.
It might still dim the lights if it does draw that much power(doubtful), but I'm just looking at not trying to pull "more" power thru a limited capacity fuse panel. I haven't look at my fusebox in a long time, if there is another spot to pickup up power and use another fuse, then go for it.
I'm assuming the instructions for the kit lists the power requirement? If you happen to operate BOTH windows, it might kinda put a strain on existing wiring. I'm just looking at a safety standpoint.
Some of the power window kits are just basic and don't come with the switches or relays to operate it. I'd pull my own power from the battery with an inline fuse and hook up a relay to the switch. If you don't use a relay, you'll keep blowing fuses. As for power door locks, the box is usually similar to an alarm system box. It has all the relays built in. You'll need actuators to pop the lock latch up and down since these trucks didn't come with factory power locks. Some kits have them included, some you have to buy separate. I installed a set in an F100 and all I can say is it's difficult to hook an actuator bar to the door lock. You might get lucky if you have small hands. I had to remove the inner workings of the door latch and rods to get to it. I wouldn't worry about battery draw affecting the rest of the electrical system as long as your battery and alternator is in good shape.