When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
OK, so I've had my check engine light coming on for weeks now, and I've been perplexed! I tried tkaing notes about when it came on, and it was never the same. So, after convincing the people at Schucks that I, in fact, have an OBDI despite my enginge being a '96 (because that's impossible! Federal Regulations say you HAVE to have an OBDII!!!), and then arguing about the fact that the plug for said OBDI is under my hood (Cus, again, that's impossible! They're all next to your aceleration pedal!), they finally said they'd check it for free. So, they check it and the guy begins mumbling about insufficient something or other.. so I'm thinking "great.. either expensive, or nothing showed up.."
"What's up?" "Oh, well, your EGR valve is shot!" "What's that mean?" "No idea, lil lady. Good luck!" And that was it! Good luck! HA!
SOOO!!!!! Can anyone tell me what an EGR valve is, what it does, where it's located, if it's inside or outside my motor, how hard it is to replace by yourself, and about how much I can expect a replacement piece to cost.
EGR stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve. Where it is located depends on what engine your truck has. If it is a 5.8 litre, then it is on the passengers side of the engine near the front. The valve allows exhaust gas back into the intake to cool the combustion chamber. It aids in lower NOx emissions I believe. The 5.8l egr is pretty easy to change, and a shop shouldn't charge much if you're not a do-it-yourself-er. Someone else will have to chime in about where its located on the other engines. The part should be less than $100 I would think.
Normally, a good cleaning will get You back on the road.
Remove the EGR valve and clean it with Seafoam. The vacuum diaphragm can be checked with a vacuum pump.
The EGR position sensor will set a code if the EGR pintle does not seat entirely on the seat. This usually occurs when there's built up carbon on either/both the pintle an/or seat.
Clean the carbon off both, it will seat, and satisfy the sensor.
your EGR valve is shot! Is meaningless diagnosis, a "guess" at best by a tech that has shown they have very little knowledge on the subject to start with. Doesn't know how to tell OBD systems 1 and 2 from each other at a glance.
Need to know exactly what code it through, simply replacing or removing a EGR valve based on what was said is a waste of time and money.
The EGR valves are built tough and made to last, and is by far the most expensive part of that system. The problem is more likely to be in the system that controls/monitors it.
The EVR, EVP or the vacuum supplied to it.
Hardest part, at least for me is counting the flashes, a cheap code reader is easier. But the flashing light will work, give it a try and Let us know the code or codes you get.
your EGR valve is shot! Is meaningless diagnosis, a "guess" at best by a tech that has shown they have very little knowledge on the subject to start with. Doesn't know how to tell OBD systems 1 and 2 from each other at a glance.
Need to know exactly what code it through, simply replacing or removing a EGR valve based on what was said is a waste of time and money.
The EGR valves are built tough and made to last, and is by far the most expensive part of that system. The problem is more likely to be in the system that controls/monitors it.
The EVR, EVP or the vacuum supplied to it.
Hardest part, at least for me is counting the flashes, a cheap code reader is easier. But the flashing light will work, give it a try and Let us know the code or codes you get.
your EGR valve is shot! Is meaningless diagnosis, a "guess" at best by a tech that has shown they have very little knowledge on the subject to start with. Doesn't know how to tell OBD systems 1 and 2 from each other at a glance.
Need to know exactly what code it through, simply replacing or removing a EGR valve based on what was said is a waste of time and money.
The EGR valves are built tough and made to last, and is by far the most expensive part of that system. The problem is more likely to be in the system that controls/monitors it.
The EVR, EVP or the vacuum supplied to it.
Hardest part, at least for me is counting the flashes, a cheap code reader is easier. But the flashing light will work, give it a try and Let us know the code or codes you get.
I heard you can short out your vwehicle if you do it wrong.. is there a big chance of that?
Also, a little off subject.. but I snapped my multi-function switch (shouldn't hit that when you get angry...) and now I need a new one. What year(s) should I be getting it off of? The 96' generation, or the 97? Is there even a difference?