Which way to go?
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Freshman User
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Which way to go?
I have been arguing with myself on which way to go motor wise..I have a 352 (I believe) and while it runs ok, it will need refreshed/replaced sooner or later.... IF I were to pull it in favor of a newer make, I would go the 351w route as I have had good luck with them over the years. I also know that would mean a newer tranny would probably be needed as well.For those of you with more knowledge of the 352 what are its pluses, and more importantly, its drawbacks ?
Any reasons besides the restoration factor for not going with a 351w?
main use of this truck is fun in the mud/dirt and the odd trip for really big items that just don't fit in a car. Let the discussion, and tempers
begin.
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Joined: Mar 2007
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It's going to be a hard route anywhich way ya go.
I started with a 240 in my 66', burnt it out and put in another.
Then it burn't out and i put a 360 fe in. Then a 390.
A lot a motors in 2 years, but thats another story.
I would stay with the 352 or move up to a 390.
My 74 f100 4x4 with a 360 kicks my friend's a$$.
And he runs a 351w in an 80 bronco. Fe's are torque monsters, though fixing them can get a bit pricey. They are worth the investment.
And I hope you don't get this reply lol
I started with a 240 in my 66', burnt it out and put in another.
Then it burn't out and i put a 360 fe in. Then a 390.
A lot a motors in 2 years, but thats another story.
I would stay with the 352 or move up to a 390.
My 74 f100 4x4 with a 360 kicks my friend's a$$.
And he runs a 351w in an 80 bronco. Fe's are torque monsters, though fixing them can get a bit pricey. They are worth the investment.
And I hope you don't get this reply lol
The other down side of the 302/351 block is embarasment. I know I catch flack for saying this, but every time I see someone open the hood on a slick, and I see that cute little engine sitting in that big engine bay, I have to bite my tongue to not ask them what it will be when the motor grows up.
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Early on, and even into the mid '60s, Ford equipped 352s with 10:1 compression, 4bbl carbs, & dual exhaust. These were not mountain motor tire-fryers, but the were not slugs either.
So here is what I would do: Rebuild the 352. .030 over and some 10:1 slugs. Aftermarket aluminum intake, see the FE forums for many discussions over which one trucks and which one sucks. RV or one step hotter cam. You know, I wonder if that 390GT cam would work....
Headers, dual exhaust with crossover pipe, steel mufflers 2 1/2".
You'll have to have the heads gone through and make sure the rocker shafts are good and decent springs as you'll have 5500 rpm as a redline methinks.
What trans do you have now? An OD 5 speed for the FE or an OD automatic is a spendy propostion.
On the plus side for the 352 is the interchangability with all the hot parts made for the FE over the years. And it's in the truck, it fits, & the accessories (you have any?) are on it.
You could put a 390 crank in it and get to 390 or just under depending on overbore. You could even get a longer stroke crank for it if you want.
You know, just send me a credit card or check book and your address, I'll order everything for you..........
So here is what I would do: Rebuild the 352. .030 over and some 10:1 slugs. Aftermarket aluminum intake, see the FE forums for many discussions over which one trucks and which one sucks. RV or one step hotter cam. You know, I wonder if that 390GT cam would work....
Headers, dual exhaust with crossover pipe, steel mufflers 2 1/2".
You'll have to have the heads gone through and make sure the rocker shafts are good and decent springs as you'll have 5500 rpm as a redline methinks.
What trans do you have now? An OD 5 speed for the FE or an OD automatic is a spendy propostion.
On the plus side for the 352 is the interchangability with all the hot parts made for the FE over the years. And it's in the truck, it fits, & the accessories (you have any?) are on it.
You could put a 390 crank in it and get to 390 or just under depending on overbore. You could even get a longer stroke crank for it if you want.
You know, just send me a credit card or check book and your address, I'll order everything for you..........
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
ROTFLMFAO That is a good reply.
John
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From: Coal country
I'll throw in my 2 cents worth here. I agree in principle with 85E.
My '66 with a 352/ 3 speed OD threw a rod, so I decided to go all out with a 460/C-6 transplant.
Although I am happy with the results, in retrospect I wish I had replaced the 352 with another FE engine - simply to have finished much more quickly and easily.
Things to change:
Exhaust
Engine mounts
Driveshaft revisions
Shifter changes
Accelerator issues
Choke changes
Not to mention the efforts expended to put it all together. These changes eat your time and accelerate your frustration.
I would recommend you start with a 390 (or a 360 if you cannot get a good 390 easily, the blocks are the same) and build it you what you want.
You will get the truck back on the road much faster without major modifications to your existing setup.
My '66 with a 352/ 3 speed OD threw a rod, so I decided to go all out with a 460/C-6 transplant.
Although I am happy with the results, in retrospect I wish I had replaced the 352 with another FE engine - simply to have finished much more quickly and easily.
Things to change:
Exhaust
Engine mounts
Driveshaft revisions
Shifter changes
Accelerator issues
Choke changes
Not to mention the efforts expended to put it all together. These changes eat your time and accelerate your frustration.
I would recommend you start with a 390 (or a 360 if you cannot get a good 390 easily, the blocks are the same) and build it you what you want.
You will get the truck back on the road much faster without major modifications to your existing setup.
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Ok, so if I stay with the 352, which runs fine BTW...what should I look to upgrading first with an eye on a full rebuild in say a couple of years? It appears to be stock outside of a duel exhaust setup, even if its halfassed it is there already. Heads before intake? headers before intake?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
DK, Leave the engine as is. You might start shopping for a 360/390 to rebuild, start buying the parts for it. When you get everything get it in a machine shop and start the rebuild.
Swapping a new engine is much simpler than messing with one installed. And don't ask how I know?
John
Swapping a new engine is much simpler than messing with one installed. And don't ask how I know?
John
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From: Vancouver WA.
I have had 2 '66 trucks with the 352 in them.
Both of them would climb a tree at idle, however you would have time fix a sandwich between the start and stop time in a 1/4 mile run.
I really do like the motor, but have had more trouble with oil leaks than with any other motor.
Am I missing something with poor gasket choices, or are these motors prone to leaking?
Also, What combinations work best to increase my 10 gallons to the mile fuel consumption?
Both of them would climb a tree at idle, however you would have time fix a sandwich between the start and stop time in a 1/4 mile run.
I really do like the motor, but have had more trouble with oil leaks than with any other motor.
Am I missing something with poor gasket choices, or are these motors prone to leaking?
Also, What combinations work best to increase my 10 gallons to the mile fuel consumption?
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: seattle
Fuel mileage with an FE...whats that ???? One must rememeber when these engines were king...and still are in my book as far as pulling...fuel price was in the small double digits....
Oil leaks...my old beast hasnt been opened up in about 20 years and no leaks...front main has very light weepage, but its still not to the point of dripping and so on...No problems on the valve covers either. One thing I do do when Im resealing engines is if at all possible use FelPro gaskets...I swear by them...Ive never once swore at them due to them leaking or there being a design flaw...IMO, the best money can buy.
As far as the FE engine family itself...if you wanna be able to pull a skyscraper over a hill, stick with it...from what Ive heard and I also attest to, the FE/NP435 combo is nearly bulletproof when maintained properly and not beast to high heaven.
- cs65
Oil leaks...my old beast hasnt been opened up in about 20 years and no leaks...front main has very light weepage, but its still not to the point of dripping and so on...No problems on the valve covers either. One thing I do do when Im resealing engines is if at all possible use FelPro gaskets...I swear by them...Ive never once swore at them due to them leaking or there being a design flaw...IMO, the best money can buy.
As far as the FE engine family itself...if you wanna be able to pull a skyscraper over a hill, stick with it...from what Ive heard and I also attest to, the FE/NP435 combo is nearly bulletproof when maintained properly and not beast to high heaven.
- cs65
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Building another FE and then swapping out has several advantages. First, you will do the internals, making sure you have quality components & fasteners, & perhaps do a balance job on it. Most importantly, you bring the compression up to 9.5 or better, depending on your desires. You get away from the 8 something of the truck 352. New gaskets, bearings etc. No hidden gremllins....
As for doing the engine in the truck, well, it runs fine, but you can't improve the compression. Headers first, then intake, cam and carb. So now, you have an old engine doing more revs, making more power. It could run fine for a long time, or cause a weak link to surface, ending the project with a bang.
If it was me and I could keep it out of service during the build, I'd do the 352 over. This may not be practical for you, so building another engine & installing it would probably be the best way to upgrade with minimal truck down time.
YMMV.
As for doing the engine in the truck, well, it runs fine, but you can't improve the compression. Headers first, then intake, cam and carb. So now, you have an old engine doing more revs, making more power. It could run fine for a long time, or cause a weak link to surface, ending the project with a bang.
If it was me and I could keep it out of service during the build, I'd do the 352 over. This may not be practical for you, so building another engine & installing it would probably be the best way to upgrade with minimal truck down time.
YMMV.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: denver
I tend to agree with jowilker and 85e, the easiest is to find or build a 390. The swap could be done in a weekend after the motor is built. For the 351w, the big items are exhaust, since 351w's never came in these trucks, headers may be hard to find/fit, and there is no chance your existing exhaust will directly fit. You could search the salvage yards, and get towers and motor mounts from a 302/351M/400 to place you 351w. I have been contemplating the ford 351W crate motor (6007-S58) in my 78 f250 for a while, and the lack of available headers is preventing me from doing it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Glendale Arizona
I refrain from boring 352 blocks out to standard 4.05 390 spec as this is almost 60 over and will leave no room for additional rebuilds. Unless one sonic checks the walls for thickness and has the additional room. A 360 block is more than plentiful and is all ready the correct bore.
Garbz
Garbz
Last edited by garbz2; Dec 5, 2008 at 03:26 PM. Reason: cant spell
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accelerate your frustration
So going headers-intake/carb on this motor, then build a "new" 390 with the internal goodies sounds to be about the best line to follow at this time.anyone ever play with propane motors?..I have a 79 ford B-700 with a propane motor, can't remember which one off hand though. That might be a odd way of going
dare to be different and all that