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302 stroker kits?

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Old Dec 4, 2008 | 02:42 PM
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302 stroker kits?

Who here is running either a 306 or a 331 stroker kit on their 302? I'm thinking about going with either before I sink too much money into my motor and just wanted to know if the 331 is streetable enough and the cost advantages of both.
Thanks very much.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2008 | 04:00 PM
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if i had a 302 i wouldn't spend any money on a 331 or 347 stroker kit until some serious head work was done or an aftermarket set of heads was purchased. a 306 is just a stock stroke 302 with oversize pistons.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2008 | 04:07 PM
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whats the motor going into? year/tranny etc..
 
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Old Dec 4, 2008 | 04:10 PM
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Its a carbed 302 from a 93 Mustang, and its in an 88 Mazda pickup. I also have a C6 trans and some minor porting done on the stock heads. I figured I would get the block done before getting the truck too far along, and can always bolt the heads on later.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2008 | 04:12 PM
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Or would heads be more appropriate for the street since I will never race the thing anyways. I just want a little more power and the motor could use a freshen up somewhere.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2008 | 06:02 PM
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A stroker will have nothing to do with it being too wild for the street. That will be determined by cam and induction.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 08:30 AM
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Ok, thanks. This is my first motor that I've worked on, and am still learning the ins and outs with it. I have a 750 Holley on it that I picked up for $50 since it needed a rebuild. But I am planning to go a little wilder than a 302, but keeping it good enough for a daily driver.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 08:51 AM
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I have done a bit of reading lastnight and this morning, and I am leaning more towards working with the cam. I have the Holley 750 and an Edelbrock RPM intake, so what else would be good along with a new cam?
 
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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 09:33 AM
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Just so you know that carb is WAY too big for the motor. A '93 mustang would have been efi so either that was changed or the motor is older. Either way you need to find out what cam is in there, best way is with a dial indicator and degree wheel and measure lift and duration. None of the stock cams will give you anywhere near full output from the motor so if you discover it's a pretty small cam step it up a notch or 2. The choice you make depends heavily on the weight and gearing in the vehicle, if it's under 3500lbs and has 3.55 gears or more a 270 dur cam with at least 1/2" lift is where you want to go, but you'll need to check P-V clearance if the pistons are stock.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 11:52 AM
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I do know about the carb being too big, it was cheap and offered me a size to set up my hood clearance. It did start as EFi, I swapped it out for the carb setup. As far as the motor, the cam is the stock spec, and they are the flat top stock size pistons. Its probably in the upper 2000's as far as weight, and I'm going to be getting a new 8.8" rear down the road.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 02:32 PM
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OK.. then you have a roller motor which is nice. The stock cam will produce a broad powerband and 1.7 rockers will push lift into the high 0.400's without any valve clearance problems. Stock cam specs are 0.444' lift and 266 deg advertised duration at the valve with 1.6 rockers. Something like the Comp Cams 35-420-8 or 35-440-8 would be a good upgrade.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 04:14 PM
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Thanks very much for the help so far. What is the difference between the hydraulic and mechanical roller tappet cams? Also, would a different ratio rocker arm make a difference or screw things up?
 
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 10:09 AM
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Comp cams custom grind 224I, 230E @.050 on 112 ls, .606 lift in, .544ex. works with uncut stock piston and GT-40 valve size

I did find this for sale on the local board, how does it sound? I do plan on doing headwork now instead of a stroker kit.
 
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