Vehicle: 91 F150, 5.0, ZF Manual tranny

A while back I started having issues with the battery going dead on me, shortly after i had a fuse link pop. The shop I took it to said the fixed it and they did it at no charge(they replaced my distributer and module at the same time). I started having issues with the battery dying again and popped the hood and it looks like the fix they did was splicing a wire in at the EEC module (by the test connecter) and they ran the wire to the selenoid (behind battery). I am now having the same problem that i did when the fuse link popped. (turn key nothing happens).

Question 1: would a bad fuse link drain the battery?

Question 2: how can I tell what link popped? I assume it's the one that goes to the eec. Which one is that? I want to replace it the right way and need to know which one to buy!

Qustion 3: What damage could they have done by splicing the wire in that is not a fuse link?

 

Fuseable links are designed to fail or take the bullet for whatever component it is installed to protect. They will fail if they are subjected to sudden amperage above their rated limit or over a period of time at below rated limit but sustained. This is more of a meltdown. Hard wire replacement of a fuseable link is a perfect example of auto repair malpractice. and doing it without locating & eliminating the cause would be hard to explain except for intentionally causing damage to a component.

 

Thanks for the response ymeski56

I took it in to the shop only because I had no time to work on it. I would usually fix it myself.

Anyone have any answer to my questions?

 

Question 1: would a bad fuse link drain the battery? No. "Bad" as in blown or broken circuit (Interupted) It went because the circuit was remaining energized for a prolonged/abnormal period of time.

Question 2: how can I tell what link popped? I assume it's the one that goes to the eec. Which one is that? I want to replace it the right way and need to know which one to buy! It will be more pliable than one that's still intact. You said that one was replaced w/ a solid wire(to ECC) however, some perfer to replace the link & wire lenght between Relay & selinoid with the F.L. close to the selinoid where almost all the F.L.'s are. So no longer seeing it a few inches down from the relay dosen't mean it's not there, just not where it used to be. Then the same (replaced) F.L. could have blown. This is most likely the case. If a relay constantly remains energized the contacts can fuse closed or spring tempered arms warp and keep contacts connected. Usual cause is leaveing key in on position to power accessories when engine not running instead of turning key to Acc. position. also result in premature failure of ignition system componants. you can visually inspect contacts of relays by popping off their covers w/ a small flat screw driver tip. They snap back on. My guess is the problem is with one or both of these relays or the contact of the column ignition switch that energizes them. One's green one's brown, you should see a small resistor wired in w/contacts of ECC when the cover is popped off not included on F.P. relay

Qustion 3: What damage could they have done by splicing the wire in that is not a fuse link?[/quote]As mentioned above hopefully it was just relocated. Otherwise the component fries next time there's a problem instead.