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I would like to know if I can put Schaeffers #167 75w/140 gear oil in my front and rear axels. Will I need to put any of the ford additive in the rear axel or is there already some of that in the oil.
Thanks,
Bowie,
I was looking at the web site today and wordering the same thing about the schaeffers #167 gear oil and good it would work in the rear end?? I did call the company and the smallest size they sell is a #45 pail aka 5 gal bucket. And I have no idea what the cost is of that 5 gals??
Jt is this something you can fill in the blanks about??
I just bought a 2000 1-ton and have been reading about the 9000 oil. I believe I found a supplier here in Boise, ID, but it does not show up on the Shaeffer site.
Would the 9000 oil be applicable in this environment? It gets into the single digits in the winter and ~110 in the summer. Will a Motorcraft filter work well with this oil?
The truck will be used as a farrier rig and used daily. I'd estimate ~2000lbs in the bed at all times (including the commercial shell). With the oil being fully synthetic, would you think ~8k miles between oil changes sounds about right?
Doc, a case of gallons is actually 6 gallons, not 4 gallons. Quart cases are still the standard 12 quarts to a case.
Fuel treatment, yes. Diesel Treat 2000, in both winterized and non winterized versions. What I've found easiest is to get a case of 24 pints of the winterized and just use it all year round. I've been using it every tank for the last couple of years. For me personally, it made a 1.5-2 MPG improvement.
Bowie, 75W-140 is too thick for the front diff, but that is the correct fluid for the rear axle. For the front axle, #293 75W-90 is what you'll want to use. I did not have to use any additive in my axle, but they're all just a little different. You'll want to drive it after the fluid change to see if you need the additive. If the rear axle binds during turns, you need to put in the additive...the additive actually reduces friction letting the diff slip.
A 5 gallon pail of the #167 Full Synthetic 75W-140 is ~$200. I split a bucket with another guy here in town to help with the cost.
mechelement, I think the 9000 would be great for your application. That's pretty much the same temp range I have here in MO, with no problems at all. Motorcraft filter will be fine. I always used WIX (Napa Gold or O'rielly's) myself, but Motorcraft was my second choice.
As for the change interval, with it loaded like that, I'd start off with a 5K change and sample it at that time. Performing a UOA (Used Oil Analysis) is about the only way to ensure that you can run it longer. I would imagine you could pretty easily run it up to 8K or 10K, but the UOA is the only way to know for sure. The local place that you can get the oil from should be able to source you some UOA sample kits as well.
Jamie, there are some tubes available at retailers here locally and could get you some if you wanted less than a 30 tube case. PM me what you want and we can work it out.
Just let me know which one you want...238, 221, or 274. What's your application and I can give you my suggestion.
Oh, and my opinion of the grease...it's even better stuff than their oil. Truly 100% waterproof, not just water resistant. The grease has impressed me, big time.
Bowie, the 221 will be great for you. It's the best all around grease to use. The 238 is a little better to use, if you're only going to be putting it in joints and such...no high speed bearings, like wheel bearings. The 238 is too tacky for wheel bearing use. In exceptionally cold environments, the 274 would be best...it's a synthetic version of the 221 and has a little better pumpability.
The 221 is perfectly suitable for wheel bearing use, and works well in joints and low speed stuff as well. If you only want to keep track of one grease, the 221 is what I would use. Me...I'm a dork and have three grease guns, with each different type of grease in each gun, depending on what I'm using it for and how cold it is.
Ray, JD is spot on. Your best bet is to call the home office and see if there's a sales rep near you. Make sure you ask for a sales rep too, not a retail location. I know the retail locations in my area don't show up on the website either, but I know for a fact there are two of them here.
Ask the rep if there's a retailer close to you. If not, the rep may be willing to work with you and give you wholesale price, no matter what the order. Like JD said though, you will have to pay shipping on orders of less than $350.
The Schaeffers rep called me back today and I'm buying a case from him in an hour. He said that switching to the synthetic can be detrimental to the gaskets depending on sludge buildup. The truck appears to be babied and well loved w/ 93,550 miles on the clock when I bought it. I do not anticipate any issues, but maybe he's just covering everything just in case? I thought that was the case when synthetic oils first came out.
Jason, what can happen at times is sludge buildup can actually be plugging a hole. The Schaeffer's oil will clean out the sludge, and also causing the "sludge plug" to go away, which can sometimes result in small leaks. However, Schaeffer's oil also has a seal conditioner in it that can bring back some flexibility to older seals, and leaks over time tend to slow down and stop once the seals become not so hard anymore.
This is not a frequent thing though, and I think you're stop on that the rep was just covering all the bases.
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