Can someone school me on the differences between the two frames? I understand the suspension differences, but have never compared frame differences.

I want to turn my 79 F150 into a F350 dually. I plan on changing the grill to 73/74 style and I may replace the bed. The Ideal plan would be to find a 1 ton donor truck, but that is not necessary. Finding the axles is not a problem. Of course I need a D60 front, but as far as the rear goes Ive got alot of choices. More than likely a 14 bolt. While fabbing suspensions doesnt phase me much, just thinking about frame/cab swaps makes my stomach turn. I would rather build on my frame.

 

I forgot to mention the why. If I do infact find a donor frame, will all my f150 goodies slide right in?

 

well this sounds like a task if you can stay on top of it.

what do you mean by F150 goodies?

 

Everything that is in good shape. Thats basically everything but the bed. I need about $500 in repair panels for the bed. Im sure I can find a replacement cheaper than that.

Is there anyone who has used arrowcraft dually fenders on a 73-79? I kind of like the 80's dodge style fenders better. Same thing as the new Dodge mega cab dually fenders. Maybe some rear bushwhackers?

 

i got a 79 f350 4x4 frame sitting in my driveway every thing is stripped except the axles lol. il take some pictures tommorow and you can compare them to see if their similar

 

there's several different kinds of fenders you can use. I have seen some people use the fenders that a flareside Ford uses. they look pretty good on there.

 

Not just size differences, there is a difference in the steel and/or processing
used to make them too. My metallurgy teacher swore that the only -heat
treated- production-vehicle frames were Rolls-Royce's.

F100's and F150's are softer and less springy than the F250's and up.
Like the difference between grade-2 and grade-5 bolts, I'd guess at this point.

Sounds like a real bad idea at this point. :/
Sorry. :/

Alvin in AZ
ps- Are you game to spark test the steel from the two different frames? :)

 

i have bad news for you. if you want a f350 4x4 then it would be way more cost effective to buy a f250 and swap in f350 diffs. the f100-f150 4x4 trucks are way different than f250-f350 trucks. for one thing the f100-f150 trucks are coil springs up front as for the f250-f350 trucks are leaf sprung up front. so to answer your question ,no this would not be in anyway a direct bolt in swap. it would entail a great deal of fabrication ,and knowledge to do this sort of build. im not saying its impossible,its just not probable or easy. then there is the difference in the frames, crossmembers,etc. the list goes on. if your up to the financial challenge, the fabrication, parts sourcing and everything that goes with it,give it a try. i have used the arrowcraft dually fenders before, the ones on my truck are hand built though. i prefer my fenders over the arrowcraft ones,thats all i will say about that. i have built a few trucks in my life,duallies and 4x4s, and others. and the one that cost the most is my 74 f 350 4x4 dually. its all one ton running gear d 60 front diff, d 70 rear diff, and one ton frame. it didnt start out that way,but it is now.

 

The only frames that are the same frame are the supercab 4x4s. F150-F350 share the same part number, and all 3 are leaf sprung fronts.

 

Well,
__Like it- or not, the most affordable
convert is to git a 1-ton 4wd chassie.

These chassies were made stonger for
bearing the bigger loads, for good reason.

Now if you are TOWING 1-ton capassitys
verses HAULING them.
Then just get a 3/4-ton 4wd chassie & put the
1-ton breakes on.
This convert dosn't cover 5th wheel/goose-neck hauling,
because they work under the HAULING range. (Hitch is over the axle.)

 

Also remember that while you may increase the actual load capacity by putting in larger axles, as far as the law is concerned if you put anything load heavier than what is printed on the GVWR sticker on the door post, you are exceeding the max load for the vehicle. For instance, if you get into an accident and they can show you were towing a load far in excess of the rating of the vehicle, you may be denied insurance coverage.

 

Further clarification of what jumbo said: If you put one ton stuff on your half ton, you are still a half ton, PERIOD!! If your truck breaks in half and kills somebody, you will be in a heap of trouble for various reasons. Your best bet is to buy the truck that suits your needs, instead of piece mealing a truck that is only marginally better than what you started with. With that said, that has not stopped me from adding a combination of K20, F350 and F450 parts to my 4 door half ton Bronco, so it will stop better when towing a trailer.

 

Thanks everyone for your input, but hold on. Im not a noob at this fabricating stuff. I just dont have a one ton frame stripped down in my driveway to look at. Pictures of that frame would be splendid!! Unless one falls in my lap for almost free Im sticking with my frame. For the front, if Im feeling froggy I'll scrap the front leafs off the D60 and build some beef radius arms and a sort of sub-crossmember. Kind of like a clayton's setup. Sure would be a smooth ride with some nice long radius arms up front. Okay back to reality. My engine, trans, t-case, cab, frame, etc. are all good. I just need a bed and axles. I need to know the center pin to center pin width of the 1ton axles. That will tell me lots.

 

If that were true none of us would be here. It'll be okay.

 

When a guy gets his junk cut off he still stays a guy,when a half ton gets 1 ton axles its still stays a half ton.

Now that that issue is SETTLED whats new i havent posted in like a freggin year.