Ok, I just scored a 87 D60 Front SRW 4:10 for $250 and plan on istalling it on the 90 F250 7.3. Ive done research and the swap seems pretty straight forward, but I still have a few questions.
1. Can I still use my F250 tie rods(the 350's are bent and I want the steering to clear the 250 leaf springs)?
2. Can I still use the F250 spring bolts? (the old ones were cut but I still have the plate)
3. Can I still use the F250 shocks?(im pretty sure I can.)
4. Does the 250 crossmember have holes predrilled for the track bar bracket?(its been rainy and I havent crawled under it yet)
Im on a pretty strict budget and I want to utilize as much stuff off of the d50/F250 as possible. But i will rebuild the calipers, and install new brakes, bearings, seals and tie rod boots, change the gear oil, etc. I posted this in another forum and didnt get any feedback so im posting here. I want as much info as possible so I can make this a seemless swap and eliminate downtime....

Thanks In advance!!!

 

I believe you need the 350 rods.
2. Not sure, but i dont think so. I belive the 350 ones were longer... could be wrong....
3. Also not likely, but again not sure.
4. Again not sure, but that one is likely....
the 350's sit 2" taller i belive. I think there might be a different cross member for the 350 for the d60....

 

The only advice i have to add is when it comes to u bolts just buy new ones. Never trust them if you dont know how long they have been under there.

 

Dang it man!!! your not given me good news...hahaha...I gotta buy stuff???? shoot!! C.mon give me some good news or I will throw in a 10" block up front and triple stack the rear blocks, raise the truck to the clouds and sell it on Stealbay!!!! haha, thanks for the reply....

I imagine the ubolt are stock, from 1990....I have a crap load of round bolts but no squares...

Anyone else????

 

You should be able to pick them up front a local place like point spring ( national company) or sumthin for like $10 each including new nuts and washers.

 

I just did this swap but I used one ton springs... I know for sure the drag link is diferent but if your keeping the 250 springs your old draglink should work, F350' were bent down to acount for the added height. and I dint think the center link/tie rod ends are diferent... can you mesure the old bent ones maybe? and yes your crossmember should be drilled as your frame is the same as a F350... mine was

 

and oh ya... good score on the D60...

 

and if you had a D50 in it before you can use the D50 drive shaft... atleast I do

 

sweet thanks dude. that helps out alot!!! yea I got a good deal on the axle, and I couldnt pass it up....the steering setup appears to be different all together the 250 appears to be a "Y" and the 350 looks like a "V". I didnt know if the tie rods from the 250 would fit in the d60 knuckle. I can take another look at the 350 tie rods and compare that my brothers d60 truck to see how bent they are, perhaps I can just replace whatever is bent....but if I use the 350 steering, would they clear the 250 springs???

Btw, I dont have a lift, so what is the best way to lift the truck to perform the swap??? Jackstands and cement blocks????

 

Your TTB has an inverted "Y" type steering, and the solid axle has inverted "T" style steering.
The "T" style steering has a solid tie rod that connects the two steering knuckles together and the drag link connects to the pass side of the tie rod.
"Y" style steering has a drag link that connect directly to the pass side knuckle, and you have a small tie rid that connects directly to this drag link. This promotes "toe" changes during suspension cycles. You will notice this as "bumpsteer".
You will expierence some pretty poor steering characteristics if you run the "Y" style on your straight axle.
Use the tie rod and drag link from the 350 and you are golden Dont use anything from the 250 in an attempt to save a couple of bucks.
You should also consider a shackle reversal if you are modifying your stuff. The 250 springs are pretty stiff and you might find that some different springs will be os great benifit.
As far as your u-bolts, this is also a pretty good time to flip the u-bolts. Just make new spring plates and you can use your round u-bolts, and you will no longer have any u-bolt threads hanging down. This are like rock magnets, and look nasty. You can clean everything up with just a little extra work. This is the difference between a plain installation, and someting that brings a little "wow" factor.


Dont use cement blocks. Your truck is heavy, and you will crush a cement block, and the truck will fall on you. Be safe!

 

thanks for the info about the blocks, i was thinking of using solid cement block and place a piece of wood between the 4 ton jackstand and the block, to disperse the weight... I dont think the jackstands will lift it high enough to take the weight off the suspension...But I will work on a better/safer method...I will try to re-use the 350 steering, but im not entirely sure if it will clear the 250 spring since it has a more negative arch, and I dont have the 350 springs but i can hunt for them...if I do the ubolt reversal, will it interfere with the shock mounts? hanging bolts are not a big issue since I dont do hardly any offroading in it(its my hauler and it s a stock NA diesel), Im currently helping my brother build an offroader/play truck(75 f250 crew cab on a 95 f350 frame, which is pretty sweet having a 4door short wheel base)...

my intentions wth this truck it to make it a hauler/recovery vehicle. something that I can tow the play truck around with...and other various stuff...

 

Here's how I did my '94. MOD 1.

 

T.McG
A picture is worth a thousand words. Pic one and pic three say it all.
Rep points given!!!!!

 

great picts and info... I'm wondering, you said you used the 350 pitman arm and I'm wondering what the diference was between the two... are F250 and F350 pitman arms diferent?

 

I must agree, excellent job on the swap. Did you have to replace the leaf spring bushings? I think mine are(if not close to being) toast. Its alot cheaper from the pricing around here to buy the energy suspension kit. But has anyone used this kit? Will it make it ride stiffer? If so, it would ride like a tank since the 250 springs are soooo stiff....I have dental insurance but I dont want to knock out my fillings everytime I take it for a ride.....the factory rubber replacement bushings are super expensive, like around 15 a piece and the energy suspension kit is like 50 bux....any suggestions on how to remove them besides cooking them out with a torch????