Oil Pan Replaced...cob-job way ;) 56k WRNING
#31
Sure glad this thread was revived otherwise I would have never seen it. Nice job. Now there can be a ton of money made here if someone decides to make a removal crossmember after you cut out the old one...JMO If companys are willing to spend the money on R&D for supensions and lifts I think they can at least take a look at this possible money maker.
#34
#37
#38
#39
Ok for those of you who are not welders... He used a mig welder and went down hill! That's stupid and obviously no one has a clue what a good weld should look like! I agree with the OP the weld looks like crap obviously he was in a rush. And anyone who is going to do this know well enough that you don't go down when you weld something that has to hold always go up!!!!!
#40
Welder was a Miller from what I remember, a large MIG welder at that.
GonzoCSU- Cross member cannot be "twisted" out, its to wide to be manipulated enough to come out.
I can tell you right now there is NOT alot of stress put on that crossmember, other than the engine and drag link. I had the suspension maxed, rock-crawling, mud-holes....even an accident involving a front end collision. The original welds looked the same as the day it was welded up.
Since I replaced the pan, last year I had to cut the crossmember out again and replace the "brand new" pot metal(CRAP!!) dipstick tube flang with a one off. Two ***large*** washers, 4 machine screws and some thick rubber gasket and clamp it all down. It will outlast the pan.
There are no oil pan leaks to speak of even after two removals this way. I dont know if im lucky, or its the manner I prep the bottom of the block....or both.
do NOT get the aftermarket pans....pay and wait the extra bit and get it from Ford or get the ford pan from another supplier.
GonzoCSU- Cross member cannot be "twisted" out, its to wide to be manipulated enough to come out.
I can tell you right now there is NOT alot of stress put on that crossmember, other than the engine and drag link. I had the suspension maxed, rock-crawling, mud-holes....even an accident involving a front end collision. The original welds looked the same as the day it was welded up.
Since I replaced the pan, last year I had to cut the crossmember out again and replace the "brand new" pot metal(CRAP!!) dipstick tube flang with a one off. Two ***large*** washers, 4 machine screws and some thick rubber gasket and clamp it all down. It will outlast the pan.
There are no oil pan leaks to speak of even after two removals this way. I dont know if im lucky, or its the manner I prep the bottom of the block....or both.
do NOT get the aftermarket pans....pay and wait the extra bit and get it from Ford or get the ford pan from another supplier.
#43
#44
You’re wasting your time trying to tell folks how things should be welded. Those that know…. Know, and some will never know. Anyone can run a bead that doesn’t make you a welder. I don’t know any welder that would post those pics & admit to doing that job. Also they just made that truck unsellable.
Dave ( Union Ironworker 32 yrs)