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Germany bound--any hints?

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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 02:27 PM
  #31  
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harley scott
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From: Woodlawn, TN
I too have spent time stationed in Germany (96-2000) I loved it and had a great time. Most items are already covered that I would recommend as well but I would by the cover before going, for convienience more than anything, summers are very short and weather there is often wet and cold, if you must drive to a larger PX for major purchase and need the truck htis could come in handy. The fuel tank is unnecessary fuel coupons are still sold and accepted. Most soldiers/airman pass hooptie cars along, take it to inspection first then purchase. Mine lasted 4 yrs (1984 5 series). At least when I was there you did 1 inspection annually unless the car was new, then after 2 yrs, and they have inspection stations on the Military Kaserns that are german "certified" I never got 2 inspections. Have fun and good luck..you will be a popular guy when your new neigbours buy a new couch.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 02:53 PM
  #32  
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brooklyn born
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From: appleton wi.
while on active duty from 1984 to1992 i was stationed in Mannhiem. i had my 1984 ford ranger shipped over. in 91 after desert storm my tranny (5spd man.) self destucted. there are only a few ford dealers in germ. that are auth. to work on american spec. products. all parts had to be shipped from the U.S. it was down for 2 months. the cost of parts and labor was ridiculous. if you take your truck, make sure it is in ex. shape and stock. you can get parts from aafees (PX) system but it all comes from the states. also remember it has to pass the TUV. (version of our DOT) but alot stricter. and remember they will not pass a vehicle with rusting out panels. if you could store it in the states with family, i would
 
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 07:59 PM
  #33  
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From: Hanscom AFB, MA
Originally Posted by Monster-4
Shockwarehouse.com is a good place and a good price.
F4-BE5-2818-HO - Front
F4-BE5-C296-HO - Rear


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...lock-swap.html

Looks like you need the following.

Blocks: F81Z559A Qty: 2
U-Bolts: N803770S436 Qty: 4
Nuts: N620485S441 Qty: 8
Thanks Mucho for the info! I will be doing these quickly!

Originally Posted by Furian
Hey Blue'87GT,

It is my sincere hope that you and your family have a wonderful and memorable time in Germany. Thank you for your service to our country and know that you will be welcomed home in 3 years time.

God bless our troops and our country...
Thankl you so much for your wonderful message. Truly, it is my priviledge to get to serve our country!

Originally Posted by senix
Also the key about driving the autoban is stay in the right lane unless passing. make your pass and get the hell out of the way. Small cars will come up on you so fast you want know what happened.
Indeed I will. I rather enjoy driving slower and enjoying the scenery, so long as it is safe to.

Originally Posted by LSchicago2
Fuel economy won't be much at 100 mph!
It's not much as it is, but you are correct!

Originally Posted by vettdvr
Yes it must pass both German and US base inspections.

Great info on bed tanks forgot about that. But it is correct, Make everything appear as it came from the factory at time of manufacture.

There is also a brake equalization test where braking force on each wheel is verified to be within % of specification. If one wheel pulls more than it should the vehicle will be rejected.
Any more details on this brake test? This is a new one to me, normal functioning brakes with zero warped rotors would be good right?

Originally Posted by senix
yes, forgot about the brake test. They also check to make sure you are running the same type of tire all around and check exhust, lights and steering components.
Nearly new full set of tires on this truck. I will have the steering and all front end parts checked by a local shop I trust. With all stock exhaust should I worry about anything else?

Originally Posted by harley scott
I too have spent time stationed in Germany (96-2000) I loved it and had a great time. Most items are already covered that I would recommend as well but I would by the cover before going, for convienience more than anything, summers are very short and weather there is often wet and cold, if you must drive to a larger PX for major purchase and need the truck htis could come in handy. The fuel tank is unnecessary fuel coupons are still sold and accepted. Most soldiers/airman pass hooptie cars along, take it to inspection first then purchase. Mine lasted 4 yrs (1984 5 series). At least when I was there you did 1 inspection annually unless the car was new, then after 2 yrs, and they have inspection stations on the Military Kaserns that are german "certified" I never got 2 inspections. Have fun and good luck..you will be a popular guy when your new neigbours buy a new couch.
I am already a popular guy in my shop here. One other guy in the entire Group has a truck, (F250 as well!) But with his camper hauling is limited.

Originally Posted by brooklyn born
while on active duty from 1984 to1992 i was stationed in Mannhiem. i had my 1984 ford ranger shipped over. in 91 after desert storm my tranny (5spd man.) self destucted. there are only a few ford dealers in germ. that are auth. to work on american spec. products. all parts had to be shipped from the U.S. it was down for 2 months. the cost of parts and labor was ridiculous. if you take your truck, make sure it is in ex. shape and stock. you can get parts from aafees (PX) system but it all comes from the states. also remember it has to pass the TUV. (version of our DOT) but alot stricter. and remember they will not pass a vehicle with rusting out panels. if you could store it in the states with family, i would
Thanks for the heads up on the vehicle conditions. I knw that many people say that their vehicle is nice, but in me saying so, mine is nearly flawless. Zero door dings, zero stone chips on the front, zero curb rash on wheels, perfect all original glass, etc. I don't have any worries on any appearance inspections. I sure hope my tranny doesn't go while there--shipping would be killer on one of these big boys!
 
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 08:04 PM
  #34  
Blue'87GT's Avatar
Blue'87GT
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From: Hanscom AFB, MA
Originally Posted by Monster-4
Shockwarehouse.com is a good place and a good price.
F4-BE5-2818-HO - Front
F4-BE5-C296-HO - Rear


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...lock-swap.html

Looks like you need the following.

Blocks: F81Z559A Qty: 2
U-Bolts: N803770S436 Qty: 4
Nuts: N620485S441 Qty: 8
Just one more thing on these blocks--they will lower the rear correct? The part number comes up with rear blocks, but they are for 1999-2001--they will work on a 2003?
 

Last edited by Blue'87GT; Dec 2, 2008 at 08:06 PM. Reason: rear blocks--duhhhh on my part!
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 08:18 PM
  #35  
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vettdvr
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"Any more details on this brake test? This is a new one to me, normal functioning brakes with zero warped rotors would be good right?"

The brake test will actually measure the braking force of each wheel when stopping. Factory stock brakes should pass. My son has a F250 and F150 there now. The F150 had new brakes on the rear and front but the truck failed the brake test. One of the self adjustors on the rear wheel failed to adjust and this threw all 4 wheels out of spec. So If everything is working as it should it should pass. I brought (in mysuitcase) all the parts necessary and we rebuilt the rear brake system then the F150 passed. Note all parts were factory stock.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 08:32 PM
  #36  
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brooklyn born
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From: appleton wi.
the vehicle is put on what looks like a dynomometer. the wheels are spun and when the brakes are applied, it measures the amount of brake force on each wheel. both the fronts have to be close as is the rears. the inspection agency is the TUV. THEY ARE VERY STRICT. also if i remember you will need to purchase and keep in your vehicle a decent sized first aid kit. under local law, motorists are req. to stop and render aid at an accident until auth. are present. and DONT run out of gas on the autobahn. that is a major fine. i was an MP over in germany and boy do we have it easy here!
 
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Old Dec 3, 2008 | 05:13 AM
  #37  
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Brookly born is correct. It is much like a dyno that you can see, two dials right in front of the machine I even watched them do mine. That was when I was over there. I was stationed in Baumholder. Not too far from Kaiserslautern and Trier.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2008 | 08:16 AM
  #38  
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Monster-4
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From: Millersburg, OH
Originally Posted by Blue'87GT
Just one more thing on these blocks--they will lower the rear correct? The part number comes up with rear blocks, but they are for 1999-2001--they will work on a 2003?
No they will actually raise the rear. The F250 blocks are 2" and the F350 blocks are 4". You can only go up in block size not down (at least using Ford parts) since you F250 already has 2" blocks.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2008 | 08:50 AM
  #39  
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Good Luck over there. I've passed through Germany 5 times (will be 6 when I return). It was a really nice Country. I wouldn't mind being stationed over there.

A little off topic, but those who have been station over there, what are their rules on lifted trucks? I'm sure it would be more difficult to pass an inspection, but I'd want to take my truck also if I ever recieved orders

Thanks!
 
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Old Dec 3, 2008 | 09:00 AM
  #40  
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brooklyn born
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From: appleton wi.
for german owners, lift kits have to be TUV certified. some of the manufacteres show this in their catalogs (i think rancho is one) however in the 4 years i was over in germany, the only lifted trucks were owned by americans, no daily drivers owned by germans. also, my ranger had 33" tires. thats like a 40" tire over there.lifting trucks over there is just not popular and practical due to laws. ship a lifted truck over and you will be the center of attention
 
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Old Dec 4, 2008 | 08:27 PM
  #41  
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From: Hanscom AFB, MA
Originally Posted by Monster-4
No they will actually raise the rear. The F250 blocks are 2" and the F350 blocks are 4". You can only go up in block size not down (at least using Ford parts) since you F250 already has 2" blocks.

Why would you want to raise the rear of an F250? For hauling heavier loads in the bed? Maybe mine is set-up differently? Mine the rear is certainly higher than the front???
 
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Old Dec 4, 2008 | 08:29 PM
  #42  
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the rear end is typically higher so that when you load it down the truck sits level. Much better than if you started level, put a couple thousand lbs in it and it squats. If it squats then you run the risk of the bed and everything resting on the axle.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2008 | 08:42 PM
  #43  
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Blue'87GT
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From: Hanscom AFB, MA
Ah, I get it. Probably while over there the heaviest thing I will haul will be a trip to the grocery store, or a sofa that a neighbor or co-worker asks to be delivered. No more hauling a Bronco, or Mustang on a trailer!
 
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 07:06 PM
  #44  
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From: Hanscom AFB, MA
Originally Posted by Monster-4
Shockwarehouse.com is a good place and a good price.
F4-BE5-2818-HO - Front
F4-BE5-C296-HO - Rear


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...lock-swap.html

Looks like you need the following.

Blocks: F81Z559A Qty: 2
U-Bolts: N803770S436 Qty: 4
Nuts: N620485S441 Qty: 8
Question before I order these shocks, I was comparing prices, and they are very good! Summit racing has the following shock listed as the rear Bilstein F4BE52819H0 listed here;

Bilstein F4BE52819H0 - Bilstein Heavy-Duty Series Shocks - summitracing.com

Is the one previously listed by Monster/Shockwarehouse (F4-BE5-C296-HO)correct, or is Summit correct?

Thanks!
 
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 11:18 PM
  #45  
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Monster-4
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Intresting. According to Bilstein's web site the proper parts number are:

Front: BE5-2818-H0
Rear: BE5-2819-H0

Page 24: http://www.bilstein.com/305bilsteinapplicationguide.pdf
 
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