Yesterday morning we were leaving on a fishing trip. We had to stop at a town about 15 miles away to pick up a couple of other guys. On the way there, I noticed the truck seemed to be missing slightly. By the time we were pulling into the other town, it had almost no power, and it died 2 blocks away from their house. Cranked and cranked, but no start.

The gauges all looked normal, including fuel pressure, (no SES light either) but it really seemed like a fuel issue to me the way it slowly died. I had changed the fuel filters just two weeks earlier, and it had run fine the couple of times I had driven it since. However, I proceeded to pull a new set of motorcraft filters out from behind the rear seat and replace them again anyway. Still no start with the new filters.

Because my fuel pressure was the usual 53 psi, I knew I had pressure coming from the HFCM. So I pulled the lid off the small underhood filter, and then had a friend cycle the key for me. The fuel bubbled quite a bit, purging air from the HFCM filter change, and then it filled the housing right up. So I put the small filter back in (making sure the housing was totally full after inserting the filter), screwed the cap down, and the truck popped right off. However, it was still missing. I let it run for a little while, but it seemed to get worse again. I pulled the small filter cap off one more time and found the housing with the filter still installed about half empty of fuel (more air had found its way in).

So maybe something at or downstream of the filter is causing a blockage. Either that, or I have a sudden air leak. I'm going to take a look at the Ford Workshop manual to see exactly what is supposed to be in the fuel filter housing, as far as parts go, and see if I can't figure it out. However, I was hoping someone here might also be able to point me in the right direction.

I noticed that there are teeth in the bottom of the small fuel filter that mesh with the center column inside the housing, and that the fuel filter connects to the lid of the housing and turns with the lid when you tighten it. Is it possible that the center column, because it also turns with the lid, is turned too much (too tight or too loose, or something like that? Otherwise, what is the purpose of the column being meshed to the filter, and the filter turning with the lid?

From the workshop manual, the first thing I've turned up as a possibility is the fuel pressure regulator on the side of the housing. Could this be malfunctioning and causing the problem?

I'm going to start by reinstalling the HFCM cap. Maybe it's cross-threaded or something. Is the HFCM cap on the suction side of the fuel pump? If so, that could be where the air is coming from. I've got my fingers crossed.

 

ICP sensor.Un plug it see if it starts.

 

LOL... that's easier said than done. I suppose I might be able to reach up from underneath and get at it.

I'll give it a go and post back.

 

Its no fun thats for sure! Get the wife or kid to try from the top.

 

I got it from the bottom, then fired it up. The miss is gone and it's humming like usual.

Can I drive it 15 miles home with the ICP unplugged?

Does that mean the ICP needs to be replaced?

If so, that's strange cuz I just replaced that thing this summer, along with a new plug.

Please reply asap, if possible. Thanks a TON!

 

Glad I didn't take off for home with it. It died after idling for about 5 ~10 minutes. Now what?

 

Let it cool off and try again.If it starts my guess is an o or d ring on the HPOP.

 

I've never messed with the HPOP. What is a d-ring, and how do I go about finding which o-ring or d-ring has failed?

What did the truck running well after unplugging the ICP prove?

 

The ICP is set to default when unplugged.So if you have a HPO leak as the truck warms up and the leak gets worse.If the computer thinks there enough pressure the engine runs but if you have a leak there isn't enough oil pressure and it stalls because there isn't enough to fire the injectors.So unplugging the ICP tells you that it is an HPO oil system problem and the warm stall leads to a leak.As for driving with it unplugged I don't know. The O & D rings are seals from the pump and the cover D and oil system O. The kit is cheap the labour not so cheap its a bit of work.

 

Great. Thanks Brickie! It did start again,after cooling off a bit (although it took a LOT of cranking), so your diagnosis is probably right on.

Do you know the part number for the kit?

 

I don't know off hand. The HPO system needs to be tested to make sure thats where its leaking.PITA but may save work in the long run.I will poke around to try and link the procedure.

 

http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articl...icle-05-17.php The HPO rail on the head can also be used to apply shop air.

 

Thanks Brickie. I really appreciate all of the help!

I wonder if it isn't an external HPO leak. I seem to have considerably more oil than usual at the bottom of the bell housing. I guess I'll see what I find when I start tearing into it.

 

If thats the case pull the turbo and have a look at the ICP sensor and pig tail,that may be the source of the HPO leak.If it is you don't need to go any further than replacing the ICP and pig tail. Good luck PM me for my phone # if I can be of any help.

 

I made it a point to feel around the ICP and pigtail when I unplugged it last night. It felt clean and dry. But that will be the first thing I look at when I get it in a heated shop and start in on it.

I just replaced them both (ICP and pigtail) a couple of months ago, so I'd be surprised, but you never know.

I'll keep progress posted here, and PM you for your number if I run stuck. It'll be slow going, since I'll be doing the work myself.