I am currently in the process of replacing both phasers, timing chains and tensioners. There's a good OEM kit on Amazon, for about $835.

I suggest reading the reviews and comments for this item and for the Dorman Cam Phasers. Just replacing the phaser will result in another failure 99% of the time as the reason the phaser failed is from a bad tensioner or chain, usually a tensioner, which leaks and leaves the bank with low oil pressure. I had the dealer replace the passenger side phaser a while back and it lasted 30,000 miles, then failed again. This time I'm doing the whole nine yards. Wish me luck.

 

Why my phasers were left steady? the mechanic said is to avoid problems in he future but I think he is hiding something, check engine light is always ON and I understand why.
best regards

 

So couple of questions. In all the videos replacing the cam phasers I have yet to see anyone flash the pcm. Is this required to reset the cam phasers ? Also if someone did a reset cam through an obII could it cause the cam to make the knocking noise as if the cam phasers are bad?

 

NO.




NO.

 

Hey Snekpete, when you do your timing job do yourself a favor and buy a set of steel tensioners and you will never have a problem with them failing ever again. Just order the ones for an earlier 2 valve 5.4. I did and it worked fabulous. No silicone seal to blow out.
Hey Norris. how's your truck running?

 

It is running and performing fabulously - thanks for asking @flyguy108. I'm at 18k miles on my timing job - and still runs (at 230k mi) like and as quiet as a new one. Miss you being around here regularly though - and believe me, I think of you every time I put my feet on those wonderful WeatherTech Floor mats.

 

Well here's to you and yours, and everyone on the forum for that matter, hoping you have a wonderful Christmas and a very Happy New Year.
You have my number, give me a call sometime.
Tim

 

ok i am going to change out my cam phasers this weekend, truck is down and it is starting to through muliti codes at me, it started with loss of power and misfires, i have changed all the plugs that missed and it seemed to be ok, but then i got other codes bank running lean, O2 sensor, will the cam phasers cause this before i start and pull it apart.

this is a 2006 F150 FX4 5.4l triton any thought before i start will be great to hear, and of cause i will let you all know how this goes.

 

these are the codes i have at this time. just need to know if this is a different issue i may have or all related to the cam phasers..
P0010
P0020
P0172
P0345
P0349
P2197
P2198

it looks like banks are running lean, and position sensors, i have already changed both sensors.

 

** HOLD ON *** Before you start tearing things appart -- I would recommend you spend a little time diagnosing.


In particular - look at Fuse # 32. Check for +12 volts on Pin 1 of Both VCT Solenoids.


I note that ALL your DTC have a 'common thread'

P0010 and P0020 are 'circuit' related for BOTH Bank1 and Bank2 VCTs. As it happens, BOTH solenoids get their common source 12 volts from Fuse No. 32. Check the attached Wiring Diagram


P2197 and P2198 are 'O2 Heater circuit' related for BOTH Bank1 and Bank2 O2 heaters EDIT: AND BOTH O2 HEATERS GET THEIR JUICE FROM FUSE 32 !!!

If the O2 Heaters are NOT working -- it hinders the O2 sensors ability to 'detect oxygen', or in other words it will read RICH. ,,,THUS... leads to a P0172 bank 1 too rich and you probably are soon to get a P0175.

You 'MAY' have phaser problems - I do not see a direct relationship to those codes. HOWEVER they 'CAN' be circuit related also. So I would definitely disconnect the battery, clean connections to the PCM (and cam sensors) with a quality contact cleaner spray - blow them out real good with compressed air and reconnect them several times to make sure connections are good. But this smacks of one of those situations where someone does a TON of work on CAMS only to report they still have problems. I would remove the simple electrical circuit DTC before trying to address the P0345 or P0349.


Good luck

 

" F150 Torqued " VCT's and fuse test fine, i know a weak battery can also cause some CEL's but this is a brand new battery, just bought sunday, and surely if the phasers are indeed damaged, the surely that would cause the error on cam sensors ? how ever if i have to do cams then i will replace the VCT's at the same time, if you have any other possibility'sfor these codes then i will check them out before i start this.

 

I am just concerned that both the +12v to the VCT solenoids and the O2 sensor heater circuits are common to each other. I suggested fuse 32 because it sources +12V to both of those circuits.

Trust your DTC Codes. 0010, 0020, 2197 and 2198 indicate the PCM senses an 'open' circuit in those circuits to BOTH BANKS. I don't know _WHY_ but the PCM cannot sense continuity or current in those circuits. But non working O2 heaters would lead to the over rich condition. And cam components, while they may be faulty, they cannot cause THESE codes. And I didn't want to see you replace cam components only to still have these codes.

Figure out the cause of them first. If you have +12 on Pin 1 of VCTs, and to the O2 Heaters - look at the corresponding pins (per the schematic) at the PCM plugs.

 

ok just started to pull this apart, and i have found the problem... i have a snapped timing chain on left bank, not sure if i want to follow through with the rest of the plan, ( new chain and guides ect, cam phasers..). i am sure to have bent valves and maybe damaged piston.. if i follow through, how can i ensure left bank is aligned correctly without head removal?

 

A snapped timing chain on the left, huh? That doesn't line up with the symptoms of post #68 and the codes in post #69, this thread.


But if you've got a snapped chain my suggestion would be read from start to finish:https://www.f150forum.com/f4/final-r...-sound-141266/

 

He didn't put the R side on the wrong side, they are reversible. (There is an L and an R marking on it, on opposite ends). Since he didn't put the crank at TDC, the L wasn't visible in the picture. He simply re-oriented the phaser to how it was when it came out of the vehicle originally, which just so happened to have the R facing up.

If he had put the crank at TDC, the L would have been visible and in the correct orientation. If you look at the before, and the after, you will notice that the orientiation of the phaser is exactly the same. (Three prongs on the front facing down). The phaser is keyed so it's impossible to put it on upside down.